Oil for my beast - hmmm this is confusing.
Discussion
Morning Chaps
Just a quick one today concerning oil. I intend to complete a full "B" service on my car in the next few weeks and I'm confident that this will not be a problem (I hope!) I'm trying to stick to the official Lotus service manual which in most cases is really easy and I intend to use Mobil 1, but what type??
there are so many different types of viscosity I don't know which to use. What are you guys using?
Thanks in advance
Wako
Just a quick one today concerning oil. I intend to complete a full "B" service on my car in the next few weeks and I'm confident that this will not be a problem (I hope!) I'm trying to stick to the official Lotus service manual which in most cases is really easy and I intend to use Mobil 1, but what type??
there are so many different types of viscosity I don't know which to use. What are you guys using?
Thanks in advance
Wako
Use A high grade FS motor sport oil like Mobil 1 motor sport, I'm sure the millers oil mentioned is also good.
If your tracking the car its very important to change frequently and advisable to install an oil cooler.
Ideal temp range is 50-100 for most oils these ones should remain stable upto arond 150 as mentioned.
Without an oil cooler your oil temp is likely to be 130-140 on track but rarely more than 110 on the road.
With an decent oil cooler it shouldnt go much beyond 110 even on the track.
HTH
Richard
>> Edited by black_potato on Tuesday 19th October 13:37
If your tracking the car its very important to change frequently and advisable to install an oil cooler.
Ideal temp range is 50-100 for most oils these ones should remain stable upto arond 150 as mentioned.
Without an oil cooler your oil temp is likely to be 130-140 on track but rarely more than 110 on the road.
With an decent oil cooler it shouldnt go much beyond 110 even on the track.
HTH
Richard
>> Edited by black_potato on Tuesday 19th October 13:37
www.grouplotus.com/car/car_aftsales_techtpc.php?page=38
this url hosts a pdf containing engine oil specs
hope this helps
Scott
this url hosts a pdf containing engine oil specs
hope this helps
Scott
A couple of points here.
Fistly, Halfords synthetic is not a true synthetic, it's a hydrocracked petroleum oil not ester or pao based so it's in a different league protection wise to a proper synthetic. See my posts regarding "you get what you pay for".
Viscosity wise, you should look at a 5w-40 to a 15w-50 depending on the make, model and type of use.
5w-40 will always give better cold start protection and a "shear stable" true synthetic one will handle temperatures up to around 130 degC. This thinner oil will also give better power delivery and fuel economy as well.
Thicker oils if not specified in the handbook can be damaging longterm and the need for a Xw-60 is just not justified as you will experience more oil drag and poorer circulation.
This should give you some answers regarding viscosity selection, it's worth reading.
Surely the thicker the oil the better!
This isn't always true - even when using a petroleum oil.
Although it is true that heavier viscosity oils (which are generally thought of as being thicker) will hold up better under heavy loads and high temperatures, this doesn't necessarily make them a better choice for all applications.
On many newer vehicles only 0w-40, 5w40 or 10w40 engine oils are recommended by the manufacturer.
If you choose to use a higher viscosity oil than what is recommended, at the very least you are likely to reduce performance of the engine. Fuel economy will likely go down and engine performance will drop.
In the winter months it is highly recommended that you not use a heavier grade oil than what is recommended by the manufacturer. In cold start conditions you could very well be causing more engine wear than when using a lighter viscosity oil.
In the summer months, going to a heavier grade is less of an issue, but there are still some things to be aware of.
Moving one grade up from the recommended viscosity is not likely to cause any problems (say from a 10w40 to a 10w50 oil). The differences in pumping and flow resitance will be slight. Although, efficiency of the engine will decrease, the oil will likely still flow adequately through the engine to maintain proper protection. However, it will not likely protect any better than the lighter weight oil recommended by the manufacturer.
Moving two grades up from the recommended viscosity (say 10w40 to 10w-60) is a little more extreme and could cause long term engine damage if not short term. Although the oil will still probably flow ok through the engine, it is a heavier visocosity oil. As such it will be more difficult to pump the oil through the engine.
More friction will be present than with a lighter viscosity oil. More friction means more heat. In other words, by going to a thicker oil in the summer months, you may actually be causing more heat build-up within the engine. You'll still be providing adequate protection from metal to metal contact in the engine by going with a high viscosity, but the higher viscosity will raise engine temperatures.
In the short run, this is no big deal. However, over the long term, when engine components are run at higher temperatures, they WILL wear out more quickly. As such, if you intend on keeping the vehicle for awhile, keep this in mind if you're considering using a heavier weight oil than the manufacturer recommends.
The best advice is to is to stay away from viscosity grades that are not mentioned in your owner's manual.
Finally, if you are using your car on the track then use proper synthetic oils as they will be more thermally stable and stay in grade for much longer.
Cheers
Guy
Fistly, Halfords synthetic is not a true synthetic, it's a hydrocracked petroleum oil not ester or pao based so it's in a different league protection wise to a proper synthetic. See my posts regarding "you get what you pay for".
Viscosity wise, you should look at a 5w-40 to a 15w-50 depending on the make, model and type of use.
5w-40 will always give better cold start protection and a "shear stable" true synthetic one will handle temperatures up to around 130 degC. This thinner oil will also give better power delivery and fuel economy as well.
Thicker oils if not specified in the handbook can be damaging longterm and the need for a Xw-60 is just not justified as you will experience more oil drag and poorer circulation.
This should give you some answers regarding viscosity selection, it's worth reading.
Surely the thicker the oil the better!
This isn't always true - even when using a petroleum oil.
Although it is true that heavier viscosity oils (which are generally thought of as being thicker) will hold up better under heavy loads and high temperatures, this doesn't necessarily make them a better choice for all applications.
On many newer vehicles only 0w-40, 5w40 or 10w40 engine oils are recommended by the manufacturer.
If you choose to use a higher viscosity oil than what is recommended, at the very least you are likely to reduce performance of the engine. Fuel economy will likely go down and engine performance will drop.
In the winter months it is highly recommended that you not use a heavier grade oil than what is recommended by the manufacturer. In cold start conditions you could very well be causing more engine wear than when using a lighter viscosity oil.
In the summer months, going to a heavier grade is less of an issue, but there are still some things to be aware of.
Moving one grade up from the recommended viscosity is not likely to cause any problems (say from a 10w40 to a 10w50 oil). The differences in pumping and flow resitance will be slight. Although, efficiency of the engine will decrease, the oil will likely still flow adequately through the engine to maintain proper protection. However, it will not likely protect any better than the lighter weight oil recommended by the manufacturer.
Moving two grades up from the recommended viscosity (say 10w40 to 10w-60) is a little more extreme and could cause long term engine damage if not short term. Although the oil will still probably flow ok through the engine, it is a heavier visocosity oil. As such it will be more difficult to pump the oil through the engine.
More friction will be present than with a lighter viscosity oil. More friction means more heat. In other words, by going to a thicker oil in the summer months, you may actually be causing more heat build-up within the engine. You'll still be providing adequate protection from metal to metal contact in the engine by going with a high viscosity, but the higher viscosity will raise engine temperatures.
In the short run, this is no big deal. However, over the long term, when engine components are run at higher temperatures, they WILL wear out more quickly. As such, if you intend on keeping the vehicle for awhile, keep this in mind if you're considering using a heavier weight oil than the manufacturer recommends.
The best advice is to is to stay away from viscosity grades that are not mentioned in your owner's manual.
Finally, if you are using your car on the track then use proper synthetic oils as they will be more thermally stable and stay in grade for much longer.
Cheers
Guy
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