Problems restarting after stalling?
Discussion
This has been an issue for a while, on every occasion I run out of talent on the track the car spins to a halt and obviously I haven't managed to save the stall.
Now the fun begins, switch off ignition, switch on, fuel pump primes engine turns over but won't fire. I'm guessing its a flooding issue but don't know if it affects all cars or just mine, it generally starts after a minute or two but that's not much comfort when you're a green plastic chicane.
Last time I was mid track just beyond the the apex of Druids at Oulton Park. Not funny. I know ideally I should address my driving skills but one thing at a time eh!
Any ideas?
Now the fun begins, switch off ignition, switch on, fuel pump primes engine turns over but won't fire. I'm guessing its a flooding issue but don't know if it affects all cars or just mine, it generally starts after a minute or two but that's not much comfort when you're a green plastic chicane.
Last time I was mid track just beyond the the apex of Druids at Oulton Park. Not funny. I know ideally I should address my driving skills but one thing at a time eh!
Any ideas?
Ok, that's sounds reasonable, I haven't tried it out but I assume you have to return the ignition to the auxiliary position only and then restart.
I assumed that priming only pressurised the system I didn't know that the injectors fired as well. I'll will do a test somewhere safe.
Thanks for that,
Oh and i'll also try and learn to catch a slide a bit quicker!
I assumed that priming only pressurised the system I didn't know that the injectors fired as well. I'll will do a test somewhere safe.
Thanks for that,
Oh and i'll also try and learn to catch a slide a bit quicker!
I'm good at stalling my Chim.
What used to be lawn in front of our house is paved and I park the Chim on it. It has a slight up-hill slope and then over the pavement and dropped kerb to the road.
I don't like launching out into the road so take it slow getting onto the road. Quite often I stall teh car in the winter and have to restart it.
Some experience and an embarrassing demonstration by an experienced AA man later I've found that to restart a flooded engine is easy enough if you keep your foot hard down on the throttle pedal when starting and wait. That is, start the engine on full throttle and keep turning over the engine. It can take 20 or 30 seconds and when the AA man did it it took about 60!
The theory is that using full throttle allows enough air through the engine to blow out some of the liquid fuel. The pop, bangs and clouds of smoke I got suggest that was the case!
What used to be lawn in front of our house is paved and I park the Chim on it. It has a slight up-hill slope and then over the pavement and dropped kerb to the road.
I don't like launching out into the road so take it slow getting onto the road. Quite often I stall teh car in the winter and have to restart it.
Some experience and an embarrassing demonstration by an experienced AA man later I've found that to restart a flooded engine is easy enough if you keep your foot hard down on the throttle pedal when starting and wait. That is, start the engine on full throttle and keep turning over the engine. It can take 20 or 30 seconds and when the AA man did it it took about 60!
The theory is that using full throttle allows enough air through the engine to blow out some of the liquid fuel. The pop, bangs and clouds of smoke I got suggest that was the case!
On a 1996 Chimeara and found that I would not able to start the car after stalling it. Turned out to be a starter motor problem. Fortunately not too expensive to fix. It is characterised by a click when turning the key and not turning over the engine in an effort to restart. When the car, or more accurately the start motor was cool - no problem. But waiting for it to cool left me red faced! It's something to do with a solenoid in the starter motor if I recall correctly.
steveb008 said:
On a 1996 Chimeara and found that I would not able to start the car after stalling it. Turned out to be a starter motor problem. Fortunately not too expensive to fix. It is characterised by a click when turning the key and not turning over the engine in an effort to restart. When the car, or more accurately the start motor was cool - no problem. But waiting for it to cool left me red faced! It's something to do with a solenoid in the starter motor if I recall correctly.
I've been through the hot start problem myself, stop for fuel then lift the bonnet and pretend to check oil/ water etc but really secretly letting heat out from in there, all fixed now,new heat wrapped starter plus mod wise duberry.bsdnazz said:
I'm good at stalling my Chim.
What used to be lawn in front of our house is paved and I park the Chim on it. It has a slight up-hill slope and then over the pavement and dropped kerb to the road.
I don't like launching out into the road so take it slow getting onto the road. Quite often I stall teh car in the winter and have to restart it.
Some experience and an embarrassing demonstration by an experienced AA man later I've found that to restart a flooded engine is easy enough if you keep your foot hard down on the throttle pedal when starting and wait. That is, start the engine on full throttle and keep turning over the engine. It can take 20 or 30 seconds and when the AA man did it it took about 60!
The theory is that using full throttle allows enough air through the engine to blow out some of the liquid fuel. The pop, bangs and clouds of smoke I got suggest that was the case!
Another option I can try, however I'm always wary of running the battery low and dropping myself further in the do-dah. But good to know, thanksWhat used to be lawn in front of our house is paved and I park the Chim on it. It has a slight up-hill slope and then over the pavement and dropped kerb to the road.
I don't like launching out into the road so take it slow getting onto the road. Quite often I stall teh car in the winter and have to restart it.
Some experience and an embarrassing demonstration by an experienced AA man later I've found that to restart a flooded engine is easy enough if you keep your foot hard down on the throttle pedal when starting and wait. That is, start the engine on full throttle and keep turning over the engine. It can take 20 or 30 seconds and when the AA man did it it took about 60!
The theory is that using full throttle allows enough air through the engine to blow out some of the liquid fuel. The pop, bangs and clouds of smoke I got suggest that was the case!
QBee said:
It does sound like flooding a hot engine. Mine can be similarly tricky if stalled when on full throttle and hot, and like you I am an ace at spinning it (as you may have seen at Snetterton!)
I am back there this afternoon and will doubtless be testing out the theory.....
Ah good, a field test, try first one method and then the other and report your findings, just try to miss everything when you're going backwards.I am back there this afternoon and will doubtless be testing out the theory.....
Take care and have fun
fatboychim said:
QBee said:
It does sound like flooding a hot engine. Mine can be similarly tricky if stalled when on full throttle and hot, and like you I am an ace at spinning it (as you may have seen at Snetterton!)
I am back there this afternoon and will doubtless be testing out the theory.....
Ah good, a field test, try first one method and then the other and report your findings, just try to miss everything when you're going backwards.I am back there this afternoon and will doubtless be testing out the theory.....
Take care and have fun
). Luckily there is enough grass there before the armco to allow for a soft landingSounds like you have stalled the engine after running very rich on track causing the plugs to foul with excess fuel. When this happend to me, I always hit the clutch and stand on the brakes until the car is controllable, assuming there is no barrier close. This way the engine does not stall and the car continues in a straght line until stopped avoiding the sling shot action when the tyres grip.
If it does not restart directly, best procedure is to pull out the fuel relay near the ecu, turn the engine over with the ignition it order to clear excess fuel from the cylinders and restart.
The engine will then stop as theres no more fuel. Replace the fuel relay, restart and drive away.
Works assuming there are no other issues.
If it does not restart directly, best procedure is to pull out the fuel relay near the ecu, turn the engine over with the ignition it order to clear excess fuel from the cylinders and restart.
The engine will then stop as theres no more fuel. Replace the fuel relay, restart and drive away.
Works assuming there are no other issues.
H
Totally agree with standing on the brakes though. Seen quite a few people in the armco where the tyres have hooked up again and caught them out, a really sad example being Allen Simonsen at this years Le Mans and if it can happen to him.....well, enough said
Not sure the fuel relay pulling is going to be practical, undoing harness and trying to get a crash helmet clad head in the footwell sounds challenging.
I need to to catch up with you soon as I have to replace my engine mounts and some other outstanding stuff. Could use some advice if that's ok?
CHGRIFF said:
Sounds like you have stalled the engine after running very rich on track causing the plugs to foul with excess fuel. When this happend to me, I always hit the clutch and stand on the brakes until the car is controllable, assuming there is no barrier close. This way the engine does not stall and the car continues in a straght line until stopped avoiding the sling shot action when the tyres grip.
If it does not restart directly, best procedure is to pull out the fuel relay near the ecu, turn the engine over with the ignition it order to clear excess fuel from the cylinders and restart.
The engine will then stop as theres no more fuel. Replace the fuel relay, restart and drive away.
Works assuming there are no other issues.
I have managed to get on the clutch on occasions but sometimes I'm just not quick enough.If it does not restart directly, best procedure is to pull out the fuel relay near the ecu, turn the engine over with the ignition it order to clear excess fuel from the cylinders and restart.
The engine will then stop as theres no more fuel. Replace the fuel relay, restart and drive away.
Works assuming there are no other issues.
Totally agree with standing on the brakes though. Seen quite a few people in the armco where the tyres have hooked up again and caught them out, a really sad example being Allen Simonsen at this years Le Mans and if it can happen to him.....well, enough said
Not sure the fuel relay pulling is going to be practical, undoing harness and trying to get a crash helmet clad head in the footwell sounds challenging.
I need to to catch up with you soon as I have to replace my engine mounts and some other outstanding stuff. Could use some advice if that's ok?
fatboychim said:
Well you're obviously not trying hard enough. D minus for you!!
Did the car go well?
Car is great thanks, 300+ bhp and loads of torque. I was just being slightly more attentive than usual!! Only car that overtook me was a Radical.....but perhaps I just never got on the same bit of track as the other fast stuff Did the car go well?
Next step is to sort out the handling!
and the ability of the driver
If problem is frequent you could place a convenient dash mounted switch wired into the harness near the relay. When problem occurrs, switch fuel circuit off and go through the start procedure. Glad to see your out enjoying yourself, and look forward to speaking with you again re bits and pieces.
CHGRIFF said:
If problem is frequent you could place a convenient dash mounted switch wired into the harness near the relay. When problem occurrs, switch fuel circuit off and go through the start procedure. Glad to see your out enjoying yourself, and look forward to speaking with you again re bits and pieces.
Ah that would work, although it does sound like setting a field for bad bowling though! 
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff