Buckled rear wheel

[Moto]

Watching the Vixen today sitting on the rollers at my local RR showed a surprising issue. Slowing from the 121mph that had just been displayed on the flat screen display, I could see that the rear N/S wheel is clearly buckled

Carefully driving home I was thinking of possible causes. Alloy cast wheels I presume are unlikely to buckle. So next thought is a bent drive shaft. Not sure whether this would show as a buckled wheel as surely the wheel bearing would hold it true??? Lastly I thought that it could be a wheel bearing gone but when I'd touched the wheel after the 121mph run there was no more heat in the wheel compared to the other side.

Any suggestions from those with more experience than me?

Thx Guys

[griff 200]

Swop wheels side to side and run up again on axel stands or good wood blocks and see if wheel still runs true ,that will tell you if it's bent?

[Slow M]

Oxide build-up at the mounting face?

Agree with above re: inspect with back lifted.

Best,
B.

[Adrian@]

Hi Steve,
It is more likely to be the hub flange, where a previous owner has used a puller rather than a press to remove it, as stated a wheel swap will give it away.
Adrian@

[Moto]

Swapped wheels but the buckle stayed with the hub. Guess it's looking like a rebuild of the rear upright units may be required.

[heightswitch]

Moto said:

Swapped wheels but the buckle stayed with the hub. Guess it's looking like a rebuild of the rear upright units may be required.

Are you sure you are not just paranoid..The suspension runs castor, toe and camber and if you are looking at the wheel referencing a fixed suspension point it may actually give the appearance of being more buckled than it actually is??

Take the wheel off and set up a floor mounted reference with a pointer pointing at a fixed point on the hub then turn the hub flange and see if the dist to the hub from the floor mounted pointer changes.
N.

[griff 200]

Looks like Adrian is correct I had an m like that caused by using a puller mine was only slight so a light skim in the lathe did the job but a new part would be a better way to go. Good luck! Richard

[Adrian@]

The Vixen hub flange has screw in studs which are peened over on the rear (the TR6 are pull through), which means that machining the flange is a pain and converting it to pull through studs (not a bad thing) would be needed.
Adrian@

[daza]

Hi, thought I'd share my experience with you. I'm surprised Adrian hasn't recalled this one. I used to get waved at alot whilst out in the Vixen, people used to overtake honking their horns etc. Until one of my cars admirers stopped along side me and said my rear wheel was coming off. As it happened a) I knew the wheel wasn't loose and b) Adrian was about to do a rear upright swap for me. Whilst being inspected by Adrian he discovered that the quill shaft on one side at some point had snapped and been re-welded and then re-fitted. Replacement rebuild upright problem solved.

[griff 200]

Threaded and peened over studs welded up stub shafts ? Old tvr,s are great things but now I don't drive them without upgrading to better engineering to make them safe! I love them but some of the wire brush re builds I've been to see are nice to look at but I'm sorry I just would not drive them. (Don't mean to upset any one) richard