Oil breathers/catch tanks
Discussion
Come on then.. Those of you that have them fitted, pics and details.. 

I assume you just use the original breather point ----> Catch tank ---> Airbox? Or some way of returning the oil to the sump?
Found these so far..

I assume you just use the original breather point ----> Catch tank ---> Airbox? Or some way of returning the oil to the sump?
Found these so far..
mikeinsheffield said:
Here are a few photo's showing the installation:






mikesr said:
This is what I put on my 4.2 a while ago. It has definitely stopped all the crud getting into the air box and it periodically needs the sludge cleaning out of it.
Not so sure about the snake pit of braided hose now. It seemed like a good idea at the time, as did the metal connectors
Its always looked too DIY I think.



Not so sure about the snake pit of braided hose now. It seemed like a good idea at the time, as did the metal connectors

Its always looked too DIY I think.



Edited by mikesr on Saturday 15th June 12:13
That's about it.
The catch tank works best with internal baffles or stainless wire wool. The oil vapour hits these and separates from the air. The condensation inside the tank will form a mayonnaise oily mess which is drained off.
Not really for returning to the sump!
Unless the tank is kept warm with the engine.
What about exhaust evacuated? More bhp and healthier engine (that's what I plan to do, prior to mapping)
Look a Jap car forums for catch tank, it's a popular mod
Look at USA V8 aftermarket suppliers for exhaust evacuated.
Yes a one way valve about a foot away from the exhaust to reduce heat damage to the valve and the valve is needed to stop the exhaust blowing up the crank case or pressurising it. A valve with all steel internals last longer.
I would be tempted to still use a catch tank as to reduce the amount of oil exiting the exhaust!
Air with oil vapour reduces the octane of fuel.
Do a search on google, there are diagrams for the best angle of inlet in the exhaust, also kits are available with the cheaper valves in.
I have run catch tanks on my Hondas for a while now. Not done the exhaust evacuation yet, hopefully later this year. The key to reliability is a good one way blow by valve.
Catch tanks are very simple, some racers use an plastic litre oil bottle, no point spending hundreds on one. Oh and the plastic sight tube will go yellow and be useless after a year! Unless you change it.
I would be tempted to still use a catch tank as to reduce the amount of oil exiting the exhaust!
Air with oil vapour reduces the octane of fuel.
Do a search on google, there are diagrams for the best angle of inlet in the exhaust, also kits are available with the cheaper valves in.
I have run catch tanks on my Hondas for a while now. Not done the exhaust evacuation yet, hopefully later this year. The key to reliability is a good one way blow by valve.
Catch tanks are very simple, some racers use an plastic litre oil bottle, no point spending hundreds on one. Oh and the plastic sight tube will go yellow and be useless after a year! Unless you change it.
The whole system on the Cerb is a token gesture and running an exhaust evac system is unlikely to improve the situation. You'll get even less depression in the crankcase from that set-up than you do with the silly pre-throttle plenum vented one.
The take off really should be post throttle with a decent separator and a PCV valve (but then you're into the realms of unmetered air entering the engine and the fueling being out although the adaptives may be able to mop this up). Even then you'd need some funky distribution manifold to feed equal air and crud to each cylinder, although if you had a decent separator then this wouldn't be an issue!
The small amount of oil you 'should' get into the airbox is really a non issue, if you're getting a lot of oil laden gas then you have a more fundamental issue with your piston rings. It's more of a concern that the crankcase isn't ventilated properly and all the acidic gas is left in there to wreck your oil and corrode bits and pieces.
The take off really should be post throttle with a decent separator and a PCV valve (but then you're into the realms of unmetered air entering the engine and the fueling being out although the adaptives may be able to mop this up). Even then you'd need some funky distribution manifold to feed equal air and crud to each cylinder, although if you had a decent separator then this wouldn't be an issue!
The small amount of oil you 'should' get into the airbox is really a non issue, if you're getting a lot of oil laden gas then you have a more fundamental issue with your piston rings. It's more of a concern that the crankcase isn't ventilated properly and all the acidic gas is left in there to wreck your oil and corrode bits and pieces.
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