Need help re charging light!
Discussion
Ok I'm at a loss, battery light had been flickering for a while randomly, replaced battery and batter cables as part of a battery move and still did it, replace alternator yesterday and came to Curborough and now it's just come on solid, it had also not been starting intermintantly.
Now it starts and runs but battery is ready 11.7 ao not charging and light is non solid, any ideas?
Oh it's a 430 as well which doesn't have an 100amp fuse unless it's hidden somewhere?! I have looked in the usual places
Now it starts and runs but battery is ready 11.7 ao not charging and light is non solid, any ideas?
Oh it's a 430 as well which doesn't have an 100amp fuse unless it's hidden somewhere?! I have looked in the usual places
Today, put the battery on charge, making sure that you use a proper charger, not a trickle one.
Tomorrow/saturday, multimeter out and on 20 volts scale, check what voltage the battery is giving. Should be high 12s.
Then open the bonnet and without putting the key anywhere near the ignition, take the cover off the back of the alternator and check what voltage you are getting between the big live terminal and earth. Should be high 12s.
If it is the same as the battery voltage, then you have a good connection between battery and alternator. If nothing, then you DO have a 100 amp fuse, and it HAS blown.
Next start the engine and check the voltage again in the same place. Should be high 13s or even low 14s. This shows your alternator is working.
Then check you have the same reading at the battery terminal - if lower, then the alternator earthing is to blame. Is your alternator fixed with a bolt, or is there some sort of plastic bush?
If all this is ok, then ask someone else because I am out of ideas
Tomorrow/saturday, multimeter out and on 20 volts scale, check what voltage the battery is giving. Should be high 12s.
Then open the bonnet and without putting the key anywhere near the ignition, take the cover off the back of the alternator and check what voltage you are getting between the big live terminal and earth. Should be high 12s.
If it is the same as the battery voltage, then you have a good connection between battery and alternator. If nothing, then you DO have a 100 amp fuse, and it HAS blown.
Next start the engine and check the voltage again in the same place. Should be high 13s or even low 14s. This shows your alternator is working.
Then check you have the same reading at the battery terminal - if lower, then the alternator earthing is to blame. Is your alternator fixed with a bolt, or is there some sort of plastic bush?
If all this is ok, then ask someone else because I am out of ideas
Run a jump lead from the -ve terminal of the battery to the engine, this will rule out earth straps.
I've not tried this, but run another cable from the +ve battery terminal to the correct terminal on the back of the alternator, this will rule out fuses/ problems with the new cables. Note to be really careful doing this one(!)
I've not tried this, but run another cable from the +ve battery terminal to the correct terminal on the back of the alternator, this will rule out fuses/ problems with the new cables. Note to be really careful doing this one(!)
QBee said:
Today, put the battery on charge, making sure that you use a proper charger, not a trickle one.
Tomorrow/saturday, multimeter out and on 20 volts scale, check what voltage the battery is giving. Should be high 12s.
Then open the bonnet and without putting the key anywhere near the ignition, take the cover off the back of the alternator and check what voltage you are getting between the big live terminal and earth. Should be high 12s.
If it is the same as the battery voltage, then you have a good connection between battery and alternator. If nothing, then you DO have a 100 amp fuse, and it HAS blown.
Next start the engine and check the voltage again in the same place. Should be high 13s or even low 14s. This shows your alternator is working.
Then check you have the same reading at the battery terminal - if lower, then the alternator earthing is to blame. Is your alternator fixed with a bolt, or is there some sort of plastic bush?
If all this is ok, then ask someone else because I am out of ideas
wot e said - sounds like the 100 amp fuse to meTomorrow/saturday, multimeter out and on 20 volts scale, check what voltage the battery is giving. Should be high 12s.
Then open the bonnet and without putting the key anywhere near the ignition, take the cover off the back of the alternator and check what voltage you are getting between the big live terminal and earth. Should be high 12s.
If it is the same as the battery voltage, then you have a good connection between battery and alternator. If nothing, then you DO have a 100 amp fuse, and it HAS blown.
Next start the engine and check the voltage again in the same place. Should be high 13s or even low 14s. This shows your alternator is working.
Then check you have the same reading at the battery terminal - if lower, then the alternator earthing is to blame. Is your alternator fixed with a bolt, or is there some sort of plastic bush?
If all this is ok, then ask someone else because I am out of ideas
Rib said:
Oh and thanks qbee, found there was no charge from testing at the alternator instead of the battery, I have refitted my old one for now but don't think it's long for this world. Need it right for the Asda day though on Saturday!
Hold on a mo. no charge when? Engine on or off? No charge at alternator with engine off means 100 amp fuse blown. Do you know where it is?
With engine running you will get 11.8 to 12 volts still even if the alternator is stuffed - you will be seeing tha battery. The cable from alternator to/from battery is a two way street.
Rib said:
Sorry, yes it was reading same as battery but wasn't charging suffiently is what I Ment, had a lot of sun today! Lol
I had a spare.....until I sold it last Sunday. It may be worth taking it to an auto electrician for a bench test. He will soon tell you what is what. If it is the diode pack, it can be quite a cheap fix.Proper Land Rover ones in virtually new nick can be had from Hobson Industries (www......co.uk) for £80 plus VAT and shipping. I bought one and it is excellent.
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