996 buyers question

[Bridgewaterfalls]

Chaps could I canvass your opinion?

I'm currently in the market for a 996 c4s, after a flirtation with the 997 c2s. I just love the rear stripe. I ve seen an example that I know has been tracked, although not advertised as such, obviously.

I would always insist on an inspection, but a n/a 996 that was tracked, does it need a borescope? Or am I being a little paranoid. I know I should always buy on condition, but I do think the level of abuse (fun) wringed out of a car is much higher on a track than the road.

Thanks Jim

[shantybeater]

I think a boroscope should be on your pre-inspection list regardless of track work.

[6C4GTS]

shantybeater said:

I think a boroscope should be on your pre-inspection list regardless of track work.

Sensible suggestion.
If the PO had prepared the car for track work and driven with mechanical sympathy should not be an issue.
Check the tyres and brakes for wear but these are consumables anyway.
Get a readout to check for RR2 - easy to get excited at a track day!

Good luck!



If you continue to track the car get some upgraded pads!!

[Rockster]

Bridgewaterfalls said:

Chaps could I canvass your opinion?

I'm currently in the market for a 996 c4s, after a flirtation with the 997 c2s. I just love the rear stripe. I ve seen an example that I know has been tracked, although not advertised as such, obviously.

I would always insist on an inspection, but a n/a 996 that was tracked, does it need a borescope? Or am I being a little paranoid. I know I should always buy on condition, but I do think the level of abuse (fun) wringed out of a car is much higher on a track than the road.

Thanks Jim

Can you find a car that has not been tracked?

I think having the engine 'scoped is a bit paranoid.

Get a thorough test ride then drive in the car. The route should be about 15 miles long and give the driver a chance to demo the car in a variety of scenarios from city stop/go driving, to blvd. cruising to high speed (highway speed) running. Toss in a hard acceleration from near idle to near red line and with at least one upshift in the mix.

Always listen to the engine and note any untoward behavior. There shouldn't be any.

Then have the car PPI'd and among other things checked for fluid leaks. At this time the DME overrev counters should be read and their meaning gone over with you. I suspect you'll then decide the car is not for you, which is why I started with the suggestion to find a car that has not been tracked.

Have the oil filter housing removed and the oil/filter element dumped into a *clean* drain pan and the contents examined.

Were it my car you were looking at and I decided to let it be 'scoped I'd insist the 'scoping be done at a dealer and the plugs be changed, all at your expense. No way I'm having just a general local auto repair shop touch my car and no way I'm having the used plugs reinstalled.

[Bridgewaterfalls]

Thanks for your replies, and a great photo! Always good to see a car being used properly.

I'm inclined to agree that ideally I'd avoid a tracked car. The problem is of course you can never prove a negative, and in reality I know I'd need to buy on condition.

Any pre purchase inspection I arranged would probably be by one of the independants in the North West. I'd obviously be guided by them, but am interested in people's thoughts before committing hard cash. Interesting to hear rev ranges are likely to be enough of a guide.

Rockster, thanks for the walk through. I don't think I'd be persuaded to pay for your spark plugs if I walked, however I don't want a left hooker so it probably won't come to that!

[Terminator X]

Rockster - you need help, paranoid in the extreme!

TX.