Servicing a Pro2 rear hub

[Vladimir]

My mystery creak is probably my rear hub (I tried another wheel; no creak).

For someone with a bit of know how and a few tools, how easy is it to strip and clean one? I've seen a vid but that doesn't always tell you how easy/hard it is!

I know I need a few extra tools and a new bearing set too.

[R.P.M]

A doddle and very satisfying!
If you haven't already just strip the hub out and feel for bearing wear, for this you just need a cassette locking tool and a chain whip.

If the bearings are a little rough then you need the hope drift tools, and new bearings. Oh and a mallet

Just make sure you remember the spacer before you put the free hub body back on ( speaking from experience!).

Edited by R.P.M on Saturday 10th August 21:39

[P-Jay]

R.P.M said:

A doddle and very satisfying!
If you haven't already just strip the hub out and feel for bearing wear, for this you just need a cassette locking tool and a chain whip.

If the bearings are a little rough then you need the hope drift tools, and new bearings. Oh and a mallet

Just make sure you remember the spacer before you put the free hub body back on ( speaking from experience!).

Edited by R.P.M on Saturday 10th August 21:39

What he said.

I really like the Hope hubs, you can see the thought that's gone into the design, it's clever yet beautifully simple at the same time they're easier to work on than almost any other sealed bearing set I've ever seen and make old fashioned (and yes they are) cup and ball bearers look like the work of a Victorian blacksmith.

[Vladimir]

Cheers guys. Think I will have a go; I have the mallet, grease, chain whip and a very useful socket/spanner set plus a vice.

Will get the tools; seems to be around twenty quid; does that sound about right? Will probably replace the bearings anyway as the one I saw (I took one end cap off just to peek inside) looked a bit corroded.

[neenaw]

You can use the proper tools but I've never had any issues with using a normal punch to remove the bearings and the correct size socket as a drift to fit the new bearings

[Vladimir]

neenaw said:

You can use the proper tools but I've never had any issues with using a normal punch to remove the bearings and the correct size socket as a drift to fit the new bearings

Handy; perhaps I will try. I have those bits in abundance!

[deadtom]

hope hubs are pretty straight forward, just be careful not to lose the pawls or pawl springs when you remove the free hub body. they are tiny and easily lost. also when you are drifting out and pressing in bearings, make sure that they come out / go in straight or you can run into all kinds of trouble and damage things.

but as others have said, having a large selection of sockets is damn near as good as having the proper tools, so long as you use them properly

[Vladimir]

Kit ordered so there's less chance of me trashing it all! Fingers crossed - ordered a bearing set too as they probably need replacing anyway.

[Digga]

Top tip: when checking and re-fitting existing bearings and/or fitting new ones, treat them to a bit of grease. The grease that is in them is a bit stingy and insubstantial (looks like Vaseline) so I always peel back the seals and bung some decent stuff in there, which definitely keeps them running longer, especially in winter gloop.

You can tell both my parents came from Yorskhire.

Also, I find it does pay to have some spare ratchet pawls and springs, because they can and do wear out quite quickly (you'll start to hear a different tone of click from the freehub) in certain British winter conditions.

[Vladimir]

I've already wrecked a set of pawls but a bike repair mate sorted them!

I will grease everything to within an inch of its life. If this doesn't sort the creak, I will simply explode.

[deadtom]

Vladimir said:

If this doesn't sort the creak, I will simply explode.

good luck!

[Justin S]

Instead of clouting bearings in ( I used to do that) I use a selection of large washers and a large bolt and nut and press them in. Means you don't belt them in pi$$ed ( yes also experience) I find the enduro aftermarket bearings are smoother and last longer than standard hopes. Always replace the plastic 'Labyrinth' seal between the freehub and hub body at the same time as a rebuild. Pro 2's don't seal as well as the old Ti and XC hubs with a proper seal.

[Vladimir]

Cassette off, spacers off (drive side was a bh), cleaned these then went to take the cassette body/grooved thingy off; the vids show a simple pull and it pops out. I'd like to think as a lifelong weight trainer, I'm quite strong but I could NOT pull it off! Any hints?!

I reassembled it and it still works but that wasn't the plan...

[neenaw]

Vladimir said:

Cassette off, spacers off (drive side was a bh), cleaned these then went to take the cassette body/grooved thingy off; the vids show a simple pull and it pops out. I'd like to think as a lifelong weight trainer, I'm quite strong but I could NOT pull it off! Any hints?!

I reassembled it and it still works but that wasn't the plan...

Have you taken the QR adaptor off before you tried re,oving the Freehub body?

The only thing that holds it in place is the seal at the back of the body. Grab it and give it a good yank and it will come off. If you're replacing the seal, try popping it out with a small screwdriver first.

[Digga]

neenaw said:

Vladimir said:

Cassette off, spacers off (drive side was a bh), cleaned these then went to take the cassette body/grooved thingy off; the vids show a simple pull and it pops out. I'd like to think as a lifelong weight trainer, I'm quite strong but I could NOT pull it off! Any hints?!

I reassembled it and it still works but that wasn't the plan...

Have you taken the QR adaptor off before you tried re,oving the Freehub body?

The only thing that holds it in place is the seal at the back of the body. Grab it and give it a good yank and it will come off. If you're replacing the seal, try popping it out with a small screwdriver first.

^What he said.

MTFU and pull the fecker off the hub!

[joema]

After removing the QR adaptor and its still stiff, wind in the cassette lock ring a bit and use a screw driver and hammer from otherside.

[Gooby]

bearings have to go back perfectly straight otherwise it will run very badly.

[Vladimir]

Cheers all - I will try this ASAP.

Tonight I stripped the headset (also Hope) and cleaned it all out then greased it to death. Another thing eliminated from the creak mystery. Had a cracking ride today but it was still there....

[Justin S]

Bearings can seized onto the axle, so when you do fight it off, just make sure you put a smear of the axle, before refitting the freehub etc and end caps.