Late 500 Clutch Problem - Master Cyl ?

[neutral 3]

For several weeks on the odd ocasion the clutch pedal has stayed on the floor, as if it was catching on somthing, then it would return. Well now there is no apparent pressure and the pedal is lose.
Checked the Master cyl and it's full with no apparent leaks visible.

I undid the Slave cyl bleed nipple and fluid came out under pressure. I'm guessing its the Master cyl ? Any ideas anyone ? And also what other vehicle is the Master cyl from ?

[PeteGriff]

neutral 3 said:

For several weeks on the odd ocasion the clutch pedal has stayed on the floor, as if it was catching on somthing, then it would return. Well now there is no apparent pressure and the pedal is lose.
Checked the Master cyl and it's full with no apparent leaks visible.

I undid the Slave cyl bleed nipple and fluid came out under pressure. I'm guessing its the Master cyl ? Any ideas anyone ? And also what other vehicle is the Master cyl from ?

Sounds very much like the master cylinder to me. I had exactly the same on my Land Rover and changing the master cylinder cured it. When I stripped down the old cylinder the seals were shot so not applying pressure thus fluid bypassed instead of pressurising. The clutch master cylinder on my Griff looks identical to the Land Rover item (quite possible as the gear box is the LT77 unit used on them). If so prices are very reasonable, aboute £15 to £25 from 4x4 outlets! regards, Pete

[Russell Mc]

They look the same but the TVR part has a 7/16 outlet rather than the 3/8 that every other car seems to use. Believe me I tried everywhere to find the right one as I hate paying the ' TVR tax ' that we seem to have to pay on common parts. I bought one from racing green in the end but have since found somewhere that can do them at normal prices.

[carsy]

Master cylinder is just a Girling 0.7". You can also get a seal kit part no. SP2102 for just a few pounds. Chances are the bore will be ok and just the seals nachard. I replaced just the seals in mine and its been fine.

Have a read here.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=10&...

[Pupp]

A favourite is that the return spring inside the cylinder bore work hardens and breaks - have had a couple go. Seemingly not available as spares despite seals being obtainable.

[neutral 3]

Thanks for all the replys. Finally had a chance to try and remove the Master Cyl, but whoever designed its location and tiny access hole needs shooting. The lower bolt apears impossible to get to, any ideas ?

Also what is the Girling part no of the Master Cyl ?

[Pupp]

Unless you actually want to replace the thing, it can be serviced from the footwell by pulling the internals after removing a circlip...

[carsy]

^^^^ This. Its doable from inside the car, but if you want to take it off, the bottom bolt is a squeeze but no problem. Thin 3/8 extention if i remember correctly just about squeezes in.

Part numbers are all mentioned in the thread i linked to above.

[neutral 3]

This is turning into a ruddy nightmare lol, barely driven the beast this year due to various parts needing replacing and very limited time at the mo, but no way can i get access to undo the bottom master cyl mounting bolt.
Wondering if the access hole on my car wasnt made big enough when the body was moulded ?


And my local Partco are totally useless re sourcing me a new Master Cyl.

[carsy]

Loads on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MASTER-CYLINDER-0-7-INTE...

That bolt is doable. Try a flexi joint or try going in from the other hole in the wing where the servo pipe passes through.

[Russell Mc]

That cylinder is the same size but the union won't fit so you'll need an adaptor to join the existing hard pipe.

[Russell Mc]

That cylinder is the same size but the union won't fit so you'll need an adaptor to join the existing hard pipe.

[roseytvr]

[quote=neutral 3]This is turning into a ruddy nightmare lol, barely driven the beast this year due to various parts needing replacing and very limited time at the mo, but no way can i get access to undo the bottom master cyl mounting bolt.
Wondering if the access hole on my car wasnt made big enough when the body

I managed mine with a 3/8 socket set putting the extension bar through the throttle cable hole. Alternatively if you remove the 6 retaining bolts from the pedal assembly there is enough play to move the assembly, and therefore the cylinder, to the left and get a ring spanner on the bottom bolt.
Good luck

[neutral 3]

Thanks for all of the replys, much appreciated, going to give it another go tomorrow, just hope my ruddy back holds out !

[neutral 3]

Success at last, finally managed to get the old ( Girling ) Master Cylinder off and it's Definately had it. The piston has jammed at the end of the bore.

Will get on flea bay soon as I can and try and track a new one down. The part no of the original one looks like 64676310.

[si easter]

Russell Mc said:

They look the same but the TVR part has a 7/16 outlet rather than the 3/8 that every other car seems to use. Believe me I tried everywhere to find the right one as I hate paying the ' TVR tax ' that we seem to have to pay on common parts. I bought one from racing green in the end but have since found somewhere that can do them at normal prices.

Could you share the place that sells them at 'normal' prices as I now need one for my 500 ,Cheers Si

[neutral 3]

Yes please share !

[Russell Mc]

Sorry only just noticed this!

Talk to http://www.compbrake.com/ I spoke to them after I bought my new one from Racing Green and explained the problem with the fitting being different on our cars.
They said that it would be something they could make so I sent them my old broken one as a guide. Give them a call and explain that its for a TVR and the fitting is 7/16 UNF for 1/2 inch pipe. Hopefully you'll speak to the guy I dealt with and they can do something to help.