Chain coming off
Discussion
Used my old bike (Cube Aerial with Shimano Sora) for over 2 years and never experienced the chain coming off.
My new bike has SRAM Force, which in general feels a lot better than SORA, but after about a week the chain started coming off the small ring and ending up on the chain catcher (sometimes it missed). I thought this might be down to cable stretch and took the bike back to the LBS for an initial check/service. I explained that the chain had come off a couple of times and they adjusted it and told me that it should be fixed.
After the service the chain / gears developed 2 new faults, the chain started coming off the large cog (overshooting) and sometimes the whole drive train would lock when changing down, requiring me to pedal back/ease off before pedaling again. This was extremely annoying, especially at the start of a climb. One of these issues would happen every 15 miles, so it is nigh on impossible to replicate in a work stand.
I took the bike back to the LBS and they tinkered with it again and it is much better. So far I have ridden about 70 miles on it and the chain has come off once, so I still think there is a problem.
Is this a common problem with SRAM Force? Am I expecting too much? Should I just accept that the chain will come off once per ride?
Since the LBS have so far failed to rectify the issues I am not confident that they are capable of fixing it.
Any advice on what to do would be greatly appreciated.
My new bike has SRAM Force, which in general feels a lot better than SORA, but after about a week the chain started coming off the small ring and ending up on the chain catcher (sometimes it missed). I thought this might be down to cable stretch and took the bike back to the LBS for an initial check/service. I explained that the chain had come off a couple of times and they adjusted it and told me that it should be fixed.
After the service the chain / gears developed 2 new faults, the chain started coming off the large cog (overshooting) and sometimes the whole drive train would lock when changing down, requiring me to pedal back/ease off before pedaling again. This was extremely annoying, especially at the start of a climb. One of these issues would happen every 15 miles, so it is nigh on impossible to replicate in a work stand.
I took the bike back to the LBS and they tinkered with it again and it is much better. So far I have ridden about 70 miles on it and the chain has come off once, so I still think there is a problem.
Is this a common problem with SRAM Force? Am I expecting too much? Should I just accept that the chain will come off once per ride?
Since the LBS have so far failed to rectify the issues I am not confident that they are capable of fixing it.
Any advice on what to do would be greatly appreciated.
Swearing....
All problems are with at the front.
Yesterday I was pulling away on a slight incline - had to stop due to traffic, as soon as I applied any force the chain popped off onto the catcher.
Previously:
Changing from large ring to smaller ring (chain lock, chain off onto chain catcher)
Changing from smaller ring to larger ring chain overshoot
The LBS suggested that when changing from the large ring to the small ring I should momentarily stop pedaling to release tension in the chain - I have never had to do this before - is this something specific to SRAM?
All problems are with at the front.
Yesterday I was pulling away on a slight incline - had to stop due to traffic, as soon as I applied any force the chain popped off onto the catcher.
Previously:
Changing from large ring to smaller ring (chain lock, chain off onto chain catcher)
Changing from smaller ring to larger ring chain overshoot
The LBS suggested that when changing from the large ring to the small ring I should momentarily stop pedaling to release tension in the chain - I have never had to do this before - is this something specific to SRAM?
Edited by jesusbuiltmycar on Sunday 18th August 15:26
jesusbuiltmycar said:
Swearing....
All problems are with at the front.
Yesterday I was pulling away on a slight incline - had to stop due to traffic, as soon as I applied any force the chain popped off onto the catcher.
Previously:
Changing from large ring to smaller ring (chain lock, chain off onto chain catcher)
Changing from smaller ring to larger ring chain overshoot
The LBS suggested that when changing from the large ring to the small ring I should momentarily stop pedaling to release tension in the chain - I have never had to do this before - is this something specific to SRAM?
Never heard that before. Not that manufacturer should make a difference: they all work in EXACTLY the same way.All problems are with at the front.
Yesterday I was pulling away on a slight incline - had to stop due to traffic, as soon as I applied any force the chain popped off onto the catcher.
Previously:
Changing from large ring to smaller ring (chain lock, chain off onto chain catcher)
Changing from smaller ring to larger ring chain overshoot
The LBS suggested that when changing from the large ring to the small ring I should momentarily stop pedaling to release tension in the chain - I have never had to do this before - is this something specific to SRAM?
Edited by jesusbuiltmycar on Sunday 18th August 15:26
Basics: chain properly clean and lubed? Teeth on the chainring(s) in good nick? Bottom bracket free of play?
Whilst not the sole cause, I'd also have a check of your limit screws and front mech position/height.
EDIT: Get yourself a copy of this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_4?url=s...
...it's excellent. Best "instructional" text (from any category!) I've ever read.
Edited by Jimbo. on Sunday 18th August 15:46
I had Sram Force spec on mine too and it kept doing the exact same things yours is doing. No matter how many times it went back to LBS and it was re aligned, 20 miles later more problems. Gave up with it in the end and now have DA9000 which is SO much better and riding is now a pleasure rather than constantly worrying when the next chain off will be.
Mine also had issues with the RD which seemed to have a mind of its own and even after proper set and road testing with all working perfectly, go over a small pot hole or bumpy tarmac and it would re align itself so it wouldn't change properly.
I totally trust my LBS and know they do an excellent job so its not the mechanics fault. Maybe Sram have an issue as LBS did say they have had a few back and no longer recommend anyone to fit it unless they actually insist on having Force.
Mine also had issues with the RD which seemed to have a mind of its own and even after proper set and road testing with all working perfectly, go over a small pot hole or bumpy tarmac and it would re align itself so it wouldn't change properly.
I totally trust my LBS and know they do an excellent job so its not the mechanics fault. Maybe Sram have an issue as LBS did say they have had a few back and no longer recommend anyone to fit it unless they actually insist on having Force.
Options are either endless trips to various LBS till one of them fixes it, or read up on how to index gears and fix it yourself.
There's really no reason whatsoever to pay a bike shop for this kind of maintenance, there is no magic to it. No arrogance involved, just the voice of practicality. It'll take the same time as one trip to a LBS, cost you nothing and you'll have the knowledge for any future fixes.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-der...
There's really no reason whatsoever to pay a bike shop for this kind of maintenance, there is no magic to it. No arrogance involved, just the voice of practicality. It'll take the same time as one trip to a LBS, cost you nothing and you'll have the knowledge for any future fixes.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-der...
shouldbworking said:
Options are either endless trips to various LBS till one of them fixes it, or read up on how to index gears and fix it yourself.
There's really no reason whatsoever to pay a bike shop for this kind of maintenance, there is no magic to it. No arrogance involved, just the voice of practicality. It'll take the same time as one trip to a LBS, cost you nothing and you'll have the knowledge for any future fixes.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-der...
+1There's really no reason whatsoever to pay a bike shop for this kind of maintenance, there is no magic to it. No arrogance involved, just the voice of practicality. It'll take the same time as one trip to a LBS, cost you nothing and you'll have the knowledge for any future fixes.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-der...
Once you have the knack you will wonder why you haven't always been doing it
Although it is a LOT easier if you have a workstand.
The bike came back from the LBS and seemed a little better but now has a new fault - the chain is "jumping" on the rear cogs at high speed (>50kph) as if it is between gears...
Since the last visit to the LBS I have ridden approx 100 miles and the chain has come of twice (small front cog, whilst pulling away) and the new fault has appeared.
I cannot replicate this on a work-stand so I took the bike back to the LBS this morning.
They still have my bike and they haven't been able to find anything wrong, they have tried riding it but since there are no hills near the LBS I doubt they will get up to enough speed to experience the new problem.
This bike is 6 weeks old and I have had a chain issue on 50% of rides - my old bike (a cheapie) is 3 years old and has never dropped its chain.
I feel that the LBS are not really interested in solving the problem -
Since the last visit to the LBS I have ridden approx 100 miles and the chain has come of twice (small front cog, whilst pulling away) and the new fault has appeared.
I cannot replicate this on a work-stand so I took the bike back to the LBS this morning.
They still have my bike and they haven't been able to find anything wrong, they have tried riding it but since there are no hills near the LBS I doubt they will get up to enough speed to experience the new problem.
This bike is 6 weeks old and I have had a chain issue on 50% of rides - my old bike (a cheapie) is 3 years old and has never dropped its chain.
I feel that the LBS are not really interested in solving the problem -
- I always have to leave the bike with them.
- They keep the bike for a couple of days before they can be bothered to look at it.
- When I phone up it is obvious that they have not paid attention when I described the issue,
- Unsurprisingly enough they fail to fix the problem.
does sound like the gears have not been set up quite right. Dropping the chain off the small and/or big rings sounds like bad limit screw setting, but could also be due to cable tension or mech alignment.
the jumping on the rear gears is probably due to an indexing issue caused by cable stretch on a new bike.
the jumping on the rear gears is probably due to an indexing issue caused by cable stretch on a new bike.
tter bike was that that the cable was so tight it pulled the mech round rather than actually moving it across the range of gears.Don't bother with the book - there are myriad videos on YouTube which are free. Also lots of web resources.
Have you checked the following:
All limit screws set
Stiff chain link
Bent chain ring tooth
Height of front mech above chain ring
Cable routing not pinched are too tightly curved
Bb tight
Mech hanger tight and not bent
Rear mech tight
Rear mech barrel adjuster set right
Correct chain length
Rear wheel not tightened
Cassette spacer fitted not fitted.
Hub reassembled wrong after service.
Any of those can cause shifting issues and there are vids on YouTube on how to check them
Have you checked the following:
All limit screws set
Stiff chain link
Bent chain ring tooth
Height of front mech above chain ring
Cable routing not pinched are too tightly curved
Bb tight
Mech hanger tight and not bent
Rear mech tight
Rear mech barrel adjuster set right
Correct chain length
Rear wheel not tightened
Cassette spacer fitted not fitted.
Hub reassembled wrong after service.
Any of those can cause shifting issues and there are vids on YouTube on how to check them
rhinochopig said:
Don't bother with the book - there are myriad videos on YouTube which are free. Also lots of web resources.
Have you checked the following:
All limit screws set
Stiff chain link
Bent chain ring tooth
Height of front mech above chain ring
Cable routing not pinched are too tightly curved
Bb tight
Mech hanger tight and not bent
Rear mech tight
Rear mech barrel adjuster set right
Correct chain length
Rear wheel not tightened
Cassette spacer fitted not fitted.
Hub reassembled wrong after service.
Any of those can cause shifting issues and there are vids on YouTube on how to check them
Thanks, When I get the bike back today I will check these things if it is still playing up...Have you checked the following:
All limit screws set
Stiff chain link
Bent chain ring tooth
Height of front mech above chain ring
Cable routing not pinched are too tightly curved
Bb tight
Mech hanger tight and not bent
Rear mech tight
Rear mech barrel adjuster set right
Correct chain length
Rear wheel not tightened
Cassette spacer fitted not fitted.
Hub reassembled wrong after service.
Any of those can cause shifting issues and there are vids on YouTube on how to check them
I would rather not name the shop yet, and give then this last chance to sort it...
Got the bike back yesterday and so far all is better! I have done 2 rides one of 32K and one of 100K and the chain/gears behaved perfectly!
The mechanic said it was an issue with the cables "shrinking" I guess he means the outers...
Anyway all sorted now, looks like I should have had more faith in the LBS!
The mechanic said it was an issue with the cables "shrinking" I guess he means the outers...
Anyway all sorted now, looks like I should have had more faith in the LBS!
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff