How to check for correct operation of differential?
Discussion
Out for a drive yesterday and I noticed there is a slight knocking noise from the n/s rear of the car. It coincides with take up of drive and 'feels' like the diff.
I jacked up the rear of the car yesterday to check that there is nothing loose, and to check all the driveshaft bolts are tight. Everything checks out fine.
I had the diff rebuilt at CTS late last year and have covered maybe 1000 miles since.
Whats the best way to check the diff is operating correctly. It feels like there is a bit of play, but it's hard to define. With the n/s wheel off the ground and the o/s wheel stationary, what range of movement (in degrees) should you have before the wheel turns the prop?
I jacked up the rear of the car yesterday to check that there is nothing loose, and to check all the driveshaft bolts are tight. Everything checks out fine.
I had the diff rebuilt at CTS late last year and have covered maybe 1000 miles since.
Whats the best way to check the diff is operating correctly. It feels like there is a bit of play, but it's hard to define. With the n/s wheel off the ground and the o/s wheel stationary, what range of movement (in degrees) should you have before the wheel turns the prop?
jeboa said:
Out for a drive yesterday and I noticed there is a slight knocking noise from the n/s rear of the car. It coincides with take up of drive and 'feels' like the diff.
I jacked up the rear of the car yesterday to check that there is nothing loose, and to check all the driveshaft bolts are tight. Everything checks out fine.
I had the diff rebuilt at CTS late last year and have covered maybe 1000 miles since.
Whats the best way to check the diff is operating correctly. It feels like there is a bit of play, but it's hard to define. With the n/s wheel off the ground and the o/s wheel stationary, what range of movement (in degrees) should you have before the wheel turns the prop?
Hi Jeboa, need not be the diff, could be the N/S CV joint on the drive shaft! This is the large flexible joint at the end of the drive shaft near the diff drive pinions. Regards, PeteI jacked up the rear of the car yesterday to check that there is nothing loose, and to check all the driveshaft bolts are tight. Everything checks out fine.
I had the diff rebuilt at CTS late last year and have covered maybe 1000 miles since.
Whats the best way to check the diff is operating correctly. It feels like there is a bit of play, but it's hard to define. With the n/s wheel off the ground and the o/s wheel stationary, what range of movement (in degrees) should you have before the wheel turns the prop?
I went through all this when my Diff went last year.
The sad news is I just couldn't tell if it was the CV or the diff. Despite there being a broken tooth as big as a fingernail in the diff.
With the car on axle stands I tried moving the wheels by hand and could feel nothing, and even tried (and don't try this at home) driving the car through the all the gears with the car on stands and the wheels off but still couldn't tell. It was only under load you could hear the banging noises.
I ended up dropping the prop and testing the UJs and replacing the CV's because they were showing signs of having stood on one point for a while before I even got to the diff.
The sad news is I just couldn't tell if it was the CV or the diff. Despite there being a broken tooth as big as a fingernail in the diff.
With the car on axle stands I tried moving the wheels by hand and could feel nothing, and even tried (and don't try this at home) driving the car through the all the gears with the car on stands and the wheels off but still couldn't tell. It was only under load you could hear the banging noises.
I ended up dropping the prop and testing the UJs and replacing the CV's because they were showing signs of having stood on one point for a while before I even got to the diff.
Edited by Barreti on Monday 19th August 18:47
Thanks for info. I changed the prop UJ's at the same time as the diff, in hindsight I should've done the CV's but thought they 'felt' okay.
I suspect it is the CV as it feels like it is just on the one side at the moment. I had the same tooth breaking experience with the diff last year - horrible noise when it happened.
After the initial shock of the TVR prices (£115 each), I've managed to find some for about £30 a piece - much more reasonable.
Found a good article here also for anyone who's looking to do the same:
http://www.crustworld.co.uk/index.php/howto/mechan...
I suspect it is the CV as it feels like it is just on the one side at the moment. I had the same tooth breaking experience with the diff last year - horrible noise when it happened.
After the initial shock of the TVR prices (£115 each), I've managed to find some for about £30 a piece - much more reasonable.
Found a good article here also for anyone who's looking to do the same:
http://www.crustworld.co.uk/index.php/howto/mechan...
Edited by jeboa on Tuesday 20th August 07:21
Fixed the link. I think I picked up the part number from one of your previous posts:
BJ-6062 ( http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/interparts/bj6062.ht... )
Seems to be a massive variation on prices, but looks to be a 108mm diameter, 40mm width, 28 spline lobro joint (with boot kit, etc.)
BJ-6062 ( http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/interparts/bj6062.ht... )
Seems to be a massive variation on prices, but looks to be a 108mm diameter, 40mm width, 28 spline lobro joint (with boot kit, etc.)
2nd checking the front diff mount bolts and nuts especially since the diff has been out fairly recently (mileage wise). i torqued mine up pretty damn tight and they came loose after a couple of hundred miles resulting In a knock when on and off the power. Tightened up for a second time and hope they will hold this time.
Matt
Matt
mattrosersv said:
2nd checking the front diff mount bolts and nuts especially since the diff has been out fairly recently (mileage wise). i torqued mine up pretty damn tight and they came loose after a couple of hundred miles resulting In a knock when on and off the power. Tightened up for a second time and hope they will hold this time.
Matt
Hi Matt, exactly the same happened to me after refitting my refurbished diff! After a couple hundred miles had a clonk same as you, found front mounting bolts loose, tightened up and been OK for nearly 2000 miles now.Matt
Had my dif refurbished 18months ago. Essentially never happy as still had a slight clunk and felt a bit sloppy. They took it off, sent it back for more preloading. Came back better but still a clunk. Last week whine from diff! Decided to send via my local (who I trust) garage to power as dom assures me when build they use all new parts. My failure this time was front bearing after 5k miles. I suspect but can't prove, that previous refurbishment didn't use correct oil and put in standard 80/90 instead of 80/140...or something like that.
I believe the way to test (may be wrong) is to jack on rear offside first leave opposite on ground. This wheel should turn but you should note a fair resistance. Then drop and jack nearside leaving offside on ground. This should turn slightly 3-6". There will be some noise from diff but it shouldn't be a loud clunk before propshaft starts to turn.
I believe the way to test (may be wrong) is to jack on rear offside first leave opposite on ground. This wheel should turn but you should note a fair resistance. Then drop and jack nearside leaving offside on ground. This should turn slightly 3-6". There will be some noise from diff but it shouldn't be a loud clunk before propshaft starts to turn.
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