Steering rack’s .. do they self centre?
Discussion
Reason I ask is my car always wants to go very slightly left... I’ve checked the geo (3 times) and although adjusted ever time??.. it hasn’t really made a difference.... It also does it when there is no road camber.... and sometime I can get a bit of diff steering... Right on acceleration, left coming off...
So I’m starting to look for other things.... It did coincide with the set up I had done after fitting my Nitrons?... stiffer springs not as forgiving on slight chassis misalignment may be??
One thing I do remember Selby TVR doing was adjusting the tracking by screwing one side out quite a number of turns and then centring the steering wheel?.. not sure why it would be done this way, but my full lock is greater turning one way, than it is the other.... by about 2” on the steering wheel... so the rack is not quite central... does this matter.... will the rack want to find its central position?.. or is this just done by the castor??
So I’m starting to look for other things.... It did coincide with the set up I had done after fitting my Nitrons?... stiffer springs not as forgiving on slight chassis misalignment may be??
One thing I do remember Selby TVR doing was adjusting the tracking by screwing one side out quite a number of turns and then centring the steering wheel?.. not sure why it would be done this way, but my full lock is greater turning one way, than it is the other.... by about 2” on the steering wheel... so the rack is not quite central... does this matter.... will the rack want to find its central position?.. or is this just done by the castor??
phazed said:
spend said:
TVR Beaver said:
..Right on acceleration, left coming off...
That'll be the rear end doing that, not the front.Thrust angle correct?
how do you alter the thrust angle?.....

this is what it sats on the powerflex site :- Thrust Angle is the difference of rear wheels’ individual toe angles. If individual toe angle of each rear wheel is not equal, then the rear wheels will try to turn the car from the back, not unlike a rudder on a boat. This is known as thrust angle.
Checked and re-checked?....
I tried to get it on a Hunter machine but they say they don't have TVR settings.. and they can't manual input them

Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 26th August 18:58
Just re-checked with cotton 
I get the rear drivers side toe to be in by 1mm over the rim
I get the rear pass side toe to be out by 1mm over the rim
but the fronts are strange also?... they appear to toe out to me?... coming from the back about 2mm per side having centred the wheel???...
is the distance accross the axles to the rim same back and front?... can you measure it this way?...
I reported the fronts toeing out before the last check (using cotton and blocks of wood).. they said it was okay?
I'm assuming the rim on the tront wheel and the rim on the rear wheel should be the same distance fron the ctr of the chassis for this to work?.. is that correct??

I get the rear drivers side toe to be in by 1mm over the rim
I get the rear pass side toe to be out by 1mm over the rim
but the fronts are strange also?... they appear to toe out to me?... coming from the back about 2mm per side having centred the wheel???...
is the distance accross the axles to the rim same back and front?... can you measure it this way?...
I reported the fronts toeing out before the last check (using cotton and blocks of wood).. they said it was okay?
I'm assuming the rim on the tront wheel and the rim on the rear wheel should be the same distance fron the ctr of the chassis for this to work?.. is that correct??
Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 26th August 21:07
If the rears are wider, thats why the front look like they toe out when referanced from the rears... If I knew how much, I could use differant size blocks on the rims....
It's a bugger when you have to do this after 3 garages have had a go!... one thing I can say now is the rears appear to be out relative to the fronts!
It's a bugger when you have to do this after 3 garages have had a go!... one thing I can say now is the rears appear to be out relative to the fronts!
I did mine using fishing line as per this http://www.elantragtclub.com/id554.html Didnt bother with leveling th floor just the string bit around the car.
Got it pretty much spot on when later checked with laser equipment. Took some doing mind, getting the string positioned correctly.
Got it pretty much spot on when later checked with laser equipment. Took some doing mind, getting the string positioned correctly.
Edited by carsy on Monday 26th August 21:05
This also has a good right up showing the importance of getting it square.
http://mercedes-190.co.uk/topic/6538754/1/
http://mercedes-190.co.uk/topic/6538754/1/
And while your at it get the camber spot on. Have a look at tvrgits homemade camber gauge in this thread. Copied it and made one myself in about 5 mins. couldnt be any simpler with perfect results.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=117...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=117...
I had that once with a car of mine...
went 3 times to a station and they could find nothing wrong but the car pulled one side under hard acceleration and when I did a right turn my right rear wheel had traction problems most of the time
before that i also had a 'new' diff so I wondered that it maybe was not working properly...
it drove me nuts but also the money it cost every try
so i decided to think things out...since when did it happen...ah, I did leveled the car straight with the springs from the coil overs...hm, and the car has a pretty high nm/degree so I was thinking, the springs need al to be the same load...
so I did it all over and gave every spring the 'same' adjustment left and right, after that I did a test drive and yes...all worked again as it should even in the corners and right turn etc...
only now my steering wheel was not 100% straight anymore so I did some align work myself at home and after some test trips all was perfect again!
so...maybe you have also a bit of that?
went 3 times to a station and they could find nothing wrong but the car pulled one side under hard acceleration and when I did a right turn my right rear wheel had traction problems most of the time

before that i also had a 'new' diff so I wondered that it maybe was not working properly...
it drove me nuts but also the money it cost every try

so i decided to think things out...since when did it happen...ah, I did leveled the car straight with the springs from the coil overs...hm, and the car has a pretty high nm/degree so I was thinking, the springs need al to be the same load...
so I did it all over and gave every spring the 'same' adjustment left and right, after that I did a test drive and yes...all worked again as it should even in the corners and right turn etc...
only now my steering wheel was not 100% straight anymore so I did some align work myself at home and after some test trips all was perfect again!
so...maybe you have also a bit of that?
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