UJ changing on A frame rear sussies
Discussion
On the 400SX I've got the good old A frame rear suspension.
I have to change over both outer UJ's as they are worn. (After a mere 55,000 miles, shocking really...)
Are there any tips and tricks to save time? On the trailing arm I could do the outer ones with the driveshafts in situ, I only had to undo the bottom link as I recall, and maybe disconnect the spring/shock, and I could then whack the cups out with a big hammer.
I have to change over both outer UJ's as they are worn. (After a mere 55,000 miles, shocking really...)
Are there any tips and tricks to save time? On the trailing arm I could do the outer ones with the driveshafts in situ, I only had to undo the bottom link as I recall, and maybe disconnect the spring/shock, and I could then whack the cups out with a big hammer.
adam quantrill said:
On the 400SX I've got the good old A frame rear suspension.
I have to change over both outer UJ's as they are worn. (After a mere 55,000 miles, shocking really...)
Are there any tips and tricks to save time? On the trailing arm I could do the outer ones with the driveshafts in situ, I only had to undo the bottom link as I recall, and maybe disconnect the spring/shock, and I could then whack the cups out with a big hammer.
If they really are all that old, I'd say you would be better off taking the driveshafts out and doing the inners as well. As they should be the larger joints, it will be far easier to do on the bench with a big vice and appropriately sized hammer. I use an old socket of the right size to drift them in and out. Before starting I would brush round the end caps / circlips and spray all with some plus gas. I don't think there are really any shortcuts - you'll need slacken the hub nut whilst the car is on the ground, disconnect the hub end of the tie bar and swing it upwards, and slacken the two hub carrier bolts a bit. This will allow the hub to be pivoted outwards (having first removed the driveshaft flange nuts - use the handbrake / footbrake to stop the shaft turning) and permit the driveshaft assembly to be removed, obviously being careful as the splined end comes out of the wheel bearing. I have to change over both outer UJ's as they are worn. (After a mere 55,000 miles, shocking really...)
Are there any tips and tricks to save time? On the trailing arm I could do the outer ones with the driveshafts in situ, I only had to undo the bottom link as I recall, and maybe disconnect the spring/shock, and I could then whack the cups out with a big hammer.
barrington said:
you can still do the outer ujs without removing the hub a bit fiddly i did this on the 350i i just sold and also superwedges 350
+1 leave the hub connected. It doesnot get difficult by it, just a bit more weight to be man handled.Was thinking if a table press would be a help.
Use a vice and hammering technique as well, but would like to invest in a press if useful for this task.
As for others as well of course.
Does anybody have experience with doing UJs with a press?
Rob
Same here - a few large sockets and a club hammer.
Before hammering starts, ALWAYS clean out the rusty bits from the insides of the yoke holes and lubricate, or else the cups will get stuck.
A vice can be handy for pressing the old ones back in slowly, but it isn't essential.
What parts of the 'A' frame did you have to disconnect to allow enough slack to do this in situ?
Before hammering starts, ALWAYS clean out the rusty bits from the insides of the yoke holes and lubricate, or else the cups will get stuck.
A vice can be handy for pressing the old ones back in slowly, but it isn't essential.
What parts of the 'A' frame did you have to disconnect to allow enough slack to do this in situ?
Hmm well this is a mystery, I have an MOT failure sheet which complains that both rear driveshaft outer UJ's have "excessive play" which is a failure being part of the suspension system.
However I've just had a good look at them (and the inners too) and there doesn't appear to be any play. I've tried jacking the suspension up into various positions too but nothing - they seem solid. I did find a bit of end-end play on one (along the axis of the spider in the yoke) but that was only 1 or 1.5mm. It disappeared when I fresed up the UJ (packing the ends out with grease) so I'm hoping that's all it was.
Have the MOT testers become more picky about these UJ's? Anyhow, on to the other jobs on the sheet (it's a long one this year!)
However I've just had a good look at them (and the inners too) and there doesn't appear to be any play. I've tried jacking the suspension up into various positions too but nothing - they seem solid. I did find a bit of end-end play on one (along the axis of the spider in the yoke) but that was only 1 or 1.5mm. It disappeared when I fresed up the UJ (packing the ends out with grease) so I'm hoping that's all it was.
Have the MOT testers become more picky about these UJ's? Anyhow, on to the other jobs on the sheet (it's a long one this year!)
I don't even have a clonk. On the phone he said to let the suspension hang loose and lever the wheel up. Also said he could see signs of rust around the bearings but I didn't see any.
I don't get any clonks either.
If I did have to change them, looking at the hub it's held on my two bolts one through the damper, do these have to come off, is that the easiest way?
I don't get any clonks either.
If I did have to change them, looking at the hub it's held on my two bolts one through the damper, do these have to come off, is that the easiest way?
adam quantrill said:
I don't even have a clonk. On the phone he said to let the suspension hang loose and lever the wheel up. Also said he could see signs of rust around the bearings but I didn't see any.
I don't get any clonks either.
If I did have to change them, looking at the hub it's held on my two bolts one through the damper, do these have to come off, is that the easiest way?
Adam, yes take the two bolts out at the bottom and disconnect the tie-rod (third bolt on top of the hub), that is all and pretty easy (good access) and it takes just a few minutes (if the large bolts are straight, but normally they are).I don't get any clonks either.
If I did have to change them, looking at the hub it's held on my two bolts one through the damper, do these have to come off, is that the easiest way?
Sometimes it is need to use a jack under the hub to take a little bit of the strain/weight to get the bolts out easy and the same to get them back in. It is just for alignment purposes.
Rob
I have noticed on mine that when the car is jacked up and the suspension/wheels right down that you get a sort of 'bind' as the drive shaft rotate. Just wondering if that's what the MOT guy has done and confused it for play in the joints??? If you had a problem I would have thought you would know when driving. Cheers Steve
Same garage but I think they have some whippersnapper newly joined, who's a bit picky. Apologies to our 19 y.o. prospective Wedger for being ageist!
I was wondering if the tie bar one was strictly necessary (being lazy!)...
Anyhow I'll take a look tonight - was doing front stuff last night which is now finished, so back to the rear end for final brake bleeding and another poke at the UJ's.
I was wondering if the tie bar one was strictly necessary (being lazy!)...
Anyhow I'll take a look tonight - was doing front stuff last night which is now finished, so back to the rear end for final brake bleeding and another poke at the UJ's.
Quick update - the UJ "play" was apparently end-float on the spiders.
I took it up the garage just now and the chap was levering the wheel up against the spring with the spider in line, then rotate 90 degrees, and repeat.
After a good greasing one end it now advisory and the other is a pass. So all bodes well for the retest tomorrow and it's saved me a job.
If I get time I'll press the bearing caps in a little and grease some more to make the advisory one a pass, too.
I took it up the garage just now and the chap was levering the wheel up against the spring with the spider in line, then rotate 90 degrees, and repeat.
After a good greasing one end it now advisory and the other is a pass. So all bodes well for the retest tomorrow and it's saved me a job.
If I get time I'll press the bearing caps in a little and grease some more to make the advisory one a pass, too.
Hmmm - I've never had these offered to me - where can I get these from?
I was thinking maybe making a shim up (cut up a tin can or some such into a disc) whack the bearing cap head in and trap the shim between the bearing cap head and circlip. If I can be bothered.
Trouble is who's to say which end needs the shim/adjustment, I think the thing will self-centre as it is so maybe loads of thick grease is the best bet.
I was thinking maybe making a shim up (cut up a tin can or some such into a disc) whack the bearing cap head in and trap the shim between the bearing cap head and circlip. If I can be bothered.
Trouble is who's to say which end needs the shim/adjustment, I think the thing will self-centre as it is so maybe loads of thick grease is the best bet.
adam quantrill said:
Hmmm - I've never had these offered to me - where can I get these from?
I was thinking maybe making a shim up (cut up a tin can or some such into a disc) whack the bearing cap head in and trap the shim between the bearing cap head and circlip. If I can be bothered.
Trouble is who's to say which end needs the shim/adjustment, I think the thing will self-centre as it is so maybe loads of thick grease is the best bet.
I got sent some thicker circlips by GKN Direct, the place where I buy my joints. Happy to send you a couple if you want to try it.I was thinking maybe making a shim up (cut up a tin can or some such into a disc) whack the bearing cap head in and trap the shim between the bearing cap head and circlip. If I can be bothered.
Trouble is who's to say which end needs the shim/adjustment, I think the thing will self-centre as it is so maybe loads of thick grease is the best bet.
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