Temp gauge error!
Discussion
Try and solve this one.
Temp gauge sometimes does not go to 0. It's been back to speed and they say its fine. Put it in the car and temp is all over the place but computer says its perfect.
What can p!ss around with the sensor so much? Now to add fuel to the fire this is the second guage that's now doing this and has only played up since changing my water pipes with ACT ones.
Temp gauge sometimes does not go to 0. It's been back to speed and they say its fine. Put it in the car and temp is all over the place but computer says its perfect.
What can p!ss around with the sensor so much? Now to add fuel to the fire this is the second guage that's now doing this and has only played up since changing my water pipes with ACT ones.
The gauge works by the changing pressure in the bulb which is communicated back to the gauge through the capilliary pipe. The pressure in the bulb changes with the temp of the coolant but maybe also with the local system pressure close to the bulb. i first noticed this when i fitted an electric water pump to a cerbera .. turning the electric pump on and of with no engine running moved the temp gauge needle. So the pressure on the bulb is one factor ie when installed is the bulb pressing against anything and putting a pressure offset in the system to begin with.
The other issue can be the heater return pipe on the stainless pipe leading back to the water pump, it is sometimes welded so that it points against the system flow direction, so you could have flow stalling or partially stalling at certain pump impellor speeds.
If the gauge behaves ok on test out of the car i'd be investigating the fitting of the bulb in its pipe, and checking the gauge operation also with the heater pipe clamped off to make sure the heater return flow isn't adversely influencing the total system flow.
The other issue can be the heater return pipe on the stainless pipe leading back to the water pump, it is sometimes welded so that it points against the system flow direction, so you could have flow stalling or partially stalling at certain pump impellor speeds.
If the gauge behaves ok on test out of the car i'd be investigating the fitting of the bulb in its pipe, and checking the gauge operation also with the heater pipe clamped off to make sure the heater return flow isn't adversely influencing the total system flow.
Edited by spitfire4v8 on Wednesday 28th August 00:10
Pressure on the bulb is my first thought which means even though it fits in easy the mount that attaches pipe must somehow be at fault. Tried not to think this as it means the pipe from ACT is faulty. I will be taking the cerb out this morning and I know it will now be reading 70 which means there has to be pressure against the bulb?
Might the bulb have been dented and hence reads high?
Wonder if there is perhaps a calibration screw on the gauge to allow you to offset the difference (sort of like a weighing scales?)
I always wondered why the needle flcked every so often.. I must have a bubble floating around somewhere..
Wonder if there is perhaps a calibration screw on the gauge to allow you to offset the difference (sort of like a weighing scales?)
I always wondered why the needle flcked every so often.. I must have a bubble floating around somewhere..
Trapped air could do it, though capillary gauges are not known for their speed of response. If it is drifting high when tightened into the water rail then something must be compressing the bulb. This error would tend to be ever present once tightened in though. If it's bouncing then I too would suspect trapped air in system.
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