If I had to drop the motor... 996 Turbo...
Discussion
What should I see to?
Here's the deal.
I need this car to be 99.999% no big surprises, as it will see most of its mileage on pan-euro jaunts.
By big surprises I mean something like not losing a coolant hose atop the engine, inaccessible without dropping it.
So I am tempted to cure this potential issue permanently, but since the engine will need to be dropped, what other work would you do at the same time everything is nice and accessible?
Here's the deal.
I need this car to be 99.999% no big surprises, as it will see most of its mileage on pan-euro jaunts.
By big surprises I mean something like not losing a coolant hose atop the engine, inaccessible without dropping it.
So I am tempted to cure this potential issue permanently, but since the engine will need to be dropped, what other work would you do at the same time everything is nice and accessible?
996TT02 said:
What should I see to?
Here's the deal.
I need this car to be 99.999% no big surprises, as it will see most of its mileage on pan-euro jaunts.
By big surprises I mean something like not losing a coolant hose atop the engine, inaccessible without dropping it.
So I am tempted to cure this potential issue permanently, but since the engine will need to be dropped, what other work would you do at the same time everything is nice and accessible?
Whatever is necessary or due.Here's the deal.
I need this car to be 99.999% no big surprises, as it will see most of its mileage on pan-euro jaunts.
By big surprises I mean something like not losing a coolant hose atop the engine, inaccessible without dropping it.
So I am tempted to cure this potential issue permanently, but since the engine will need to be dropped, what other work would you do at the same time everything is nice and accessible?
First if there are any take care of any oil leaks.
Plugs.
Coils.
Water pump if it shows signs of leaking. If not... up to you if you want to replace or not.
If noisy or with excessive play the idler roller bearings/tensioner. (Had one go noisy in my 03 but the rest are quite ok even with 110K miles.)
Inspect the engine and drive train mounts.
Inspect the shifter and its linkage.
CV boots. Do not forget the ones in the front!
If the CV boots are bad then remove and clean and inspect and repack the CV bearings if they are ok.
Inspect the clutch hardware and replace/renew.
Inspect the dual mass flywheel and if not up to par replace.
Change the tranny and diff fluids.
Drain and refill the coolant system.
Inspect the rear suspension hardware and replace as necessary.
Really unless there are oil leaks or other things are due you are taking care of the one real concern and that is the epoxied coolant hose fittings of the engine.
Even with some or all of the above things happen. Flat tire. Water pump. Fuel pump. So when you head out be sure the car is in good condition; have a good cell phone charged up; and a good road side assistance plan or auto club membership that will send someone should the car break down and the car needs towing.
1)Get all the coolant fittings welded.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=107...
2) Replace all hoses
3) Clutch
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=107...
2) Replace all hoses
3) Clutch
Clutch done recently.
Apart from the hoses / welding thing which is the main reason, my list was:
Water pump;
Crankshaft rear seal;
Hoses themselves;
Cam cover gaskets as seem to be slightly leaky at the front.
You added, of interest, thanks:
Flywheel (need to look into)
Idler/tensioner bearings
The rest is not really critical nor inaccessible which would be the main criteria. I just don't want any engine-out or flatbedding surprises. I don't mind needing to pop into an OPC for non major stuff if s
t happens, as it sometimes may.
Anything else?
Incidentally I also read about some recalls on an online buyers guide, what are these about exactly? Mine is an 02MY so perhaps some of these apply to earlier models?
"• Recalls
Check the service book has the stamps for the five recalls: replace fuel pump wiring harness and coolant line spring clamp band; fit anti-chafing sheath to engine compartment fuel line; strengthen wiring harness in area of oil filter, and secure hydraulic clutch line with extra bracket."
Thanks again.
Apart from the hoses / welding thing which is the main reason, my list was:
Water pump;
Crankshaft rear seal;
Hoses themselves;
Cam cover gaskets as seem to be slightly leaky at the front.
You added, of interest, thanks:
Flywheel (need to look into)
Idler/tensioner bearings
The rest is not really critical nor inaccessible which would be the main criteria. I just don't want any engine-out or flatbedding surprises. I don't mind needing to pop into an OPC for non major stuff if s
t happens, as it sometimes may.Anything else?
Incidentally I also read about some recalls on an online buyers guide, what are these about exactly? Mine is an 02MY so perhaps some of these apply to earlier models?
"• Recalls
Check the service book has the stamps for the five recalls: replace fuel pump wiring harness and coolant line spring clamp band; fit anti-chafing sheath to engine compartment fuel line; strengthen wiring harness in area of oil filter, and secure hydraulic clutch line with extra bracket."
Thanks again.
Nothing that I can think of. I mean you just take care of what's obvious. That's pretty much a given.
Whatever else you want to take care of, have done, that is between you, your wallet and your mechanic.
I just had the tranny out of my 03 Turbo for a new RMS and the only other thing that was replaced was a couple of small needle bearings on the clutch pivot shaft.
There were no leaks (other than the RMS), the water pump appeared to be fine, the plugs are ok as were the coils. The clutch was like new (with 110K miles on it no less). So save for the RMS and needle bearings that is all I had done. All I'm going to have done unless or until something shows signs of needing doing.
Whatever else you want to take care of, have done, that is between you, your wallet and your mechanic.
I just had the tranny out of my 03 Turbo for a new RMS and the only other thing that was replaced was a couple of small needle bearings on the clutch pivot shaft.
There were no leaks (other than the RMS), the water pump appeared to be fine, the plugs are ok as were the coils. The clutch was like new (with 110K miles on it no less). So save for the RMS and needle bearings that is all I had done. All I'm going to have done unless or until something shows signs of needing doing.
Rockster said:
Nothing that I can think of. I mean you just take care of what's obvious. That's pretty much a given.
Whatever else you want to take care of, have done, that is between you, your wallet and your mechanic.
I just had the tranny out of my 03 Turbo for a new RMS and the only other thing that was replaced was a couple of small needle bearings on the clutch pivot shaft.
There were no leaks (other than the RMS), the water pump appeared to be fine, the plugs are ok as were the coils. The clutch was like new (with 110K miles on it no less). So save for the RMS and needle bearings that is all I had done. All I'm going to have done unless or until something shows signs of needing doing.
Thanks againWhatever else you want to take care of, have done, that is between you, your wallet and your mechanic.
I just had the tranny out of my 03 Turbo for a new RMS and the only other thing that was replaced was a couple of small needle bearings on the clutch pivot shaft.
There were no leaks (other than the RMS), the water pump appeared to be fine, the plugs are ok as were the coils. The clutch was like new (with 110K miles on it no less). So save for the RMS and needle bearings that is all I had done. All I'm going to have done unless or until something shows signs of needing doing.
alexisn said:
Might be cheaper to just run the car and purchase some recovery insurance. The problem with these forums is that everyone becomes neurotic over these cars.
I did look into this, unfortunately recovery when you read the fine print, seems to mean "...to nearest OPC" where you will be paying to have the car repaired out of your own pocket, and if that happens to be (say) Switzerland, and it's an engine out jobbie, I may as well leave them the keys, permanently.In reality breakdown cover turns out to mainly be for the towing fee and (subject to further T&C's) possibly eventually getting you home if the car is not repairable within a set period of time, which it usually is. Or something of the sort, it's been a few months since I checked, but after studying the policy terms the basic conclusion was that if something serious happens you are still going to be paying a lot of £££, insurance or not.
I don't keep the car in the UK, and for relatively little money I can have the engine out and back in the car. Probably for around 3 years worth of Euro breakdown cover insurance.
alexisn said:
Fair comment, but basically get the car inspected and if it aint broke don't fix it. You might scan the number of 911's for sale with mileages of greater than 100,000, quite a few. Drive it and enjoy it and stay of the forums.
Alex me mate, that does not work.I don't need to get the car inspected for something that can't be inspected, and in any case will pass any inspection and yet ould potentially fail catastrophically driving back home from said inspection.
Secondly, stuff that is commonly known to fail is likely to fail.
I have replaced radiators and condensers, indicator/control stalk assy, my bumper heat shields are currently being replaced, previous owner/s did clutch slave and accumulator, starter motor, suspension coffin arms, again rads and condensers, coil packs, and I don't recall what else because all this is from memory, but the point is, all the preceding is highly typical for the breed, has previously been sorted on my car, and some of that is of the you-aint-going-nowhere-till-fixed flavour.
Fingers crossed seeing to this hoses thing will permanently add another ticked box in the "sorted" column.
deffo do the hoses if your going drop your engine (all 10+ years old now on 996's) as I've seen plenty let go on road & track. I also do a lot of euro trips so when I dropped my GT engine over the winter for a full strip & rebuild I did everything I could whilst we were in there; all hoses, cooler, tensioner, belt, pulleys.. nothing was overly expensive or hard to do, also sorted all the coolant fixings at the same time..
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