Fiesta 1.25 Zetec (2000) bottom hose adapter leaking
Discussion
Good afternoon all,
I was wondering if there is someone out there who can help me with some technical advice on this one. I have a Fiesta 1.25 Zetec Climate (I think it's the Yamaha designed engine with the plastic inlet manifold at the front next to the bonnet closing panel). The problem I have is a coolant leak from a "bottom house plastic adapter block" where this joins the engine block. This fitting is almost completely un-accessable without some other dismantling. [From some further investigation I think this might actually be the thermostat housing.]
A few questions, for anyone that might know (I have tried Wynn's Coolant Stop Leak but that didn't work unfortunately - I think this is only good for radiator leaks):
1. Can the adapter be accessed by removing the alternator and inlet manifold only (I don't want to disturb the A/C compressor - I shall give up at that point)?
2. Where the adapter joins the block is the joint sealed by a gasket or an o-ring?
3. Will I need a new adapter or just a gasket or o-ring (is the joint facing likely to have distorted)?
4. I assume that all I may need to do this job (I shall re-use the anti-freeze as it's only a couple of years old - probably changing this was the cause of the damned leak!) is an inlet manifold gasket, another gasket/o-ring for the adapter joint and a day's spare time. Anyone know different?
Thanks in advance.
I was wondering if there is someone out there who can help me with some technical advice on this one. I have a Fiesta 1.25 Zetec Climate (I think it's the Yamaha designed engine with the plastic inlet manifold at the front next to the bonnet closing panel). The problem I have is a coolant leak from a "bottom house plastic adapter block" where this joins the engine block. This fitting is almost completely un-accessable without some other dismantling. [From some further investigation I think this might actually be the thermostat housing.]
A few questions, for anyone that might know (I have tried Wynn's Coolant Stop Leak but that didn't work unfortunately - I think this is only good for radiator leaks):
1. Can the adapter be accessed by removing the alternator and inlet manifold only (I don't want to disturb the A/C compressor - I shall give up at that point)?
2. Where the adapter joins the block is the joint sealed by a gasket or an o-ring?
3. Will I need a new adapter or just a gasket or o-ring (is the joint facing likely to have distorted)?
4. I assume that all I may need to do this job (I shall re-use the anti-freeze as it's only a couple of years old - probably changing this was the cause of the damned leak!) is an inlet manifold gasket, another gasket/o-ring for the adapter joint and a day's spare time. Anyone know different?
Thanks in advance.
Edited by mikdys on Sunday 1st September 14:10
Thanks for the reply - I can see the 'stat housings for sale on ebay (new) - I'll buy one of these and a couple of new O-rings.
All fixed now. Turns out it was the rubber seal on the thermostat leaking due to a small amount of corrosion pushing it slightly out of position. The Ford garage I bought this seal from (for the extortionate price of £5 for a 2 pence rubber ring!) said they sell "half a dozen a week, it's a popular part". I changed the housing at the same time as I had bought a new one anyway (from ebay for £10 not from Ford at £30 - interestingly all the markings were the same except for the Ford logo being missing). I guess all you need to fix this "common fault" is a £5 O-ring and some wet & dry to clean up its seating.
To gain access I had to remove the alternator (note the "automatic alternator belt tensioner" is underneath the car) and I also found it easier to remove the headlamp (easy to remove as it's only held in by three screws).
Not such a bad job really. Couple of hours work for the layman (probably half an hour for an experienced and skilled fitter).
All fixed now. Turns out it was the rubber seal on the thermostat leaking due to a small amount of corrosion pushing it slightly out of position. The Ford garage I bought this seal from (for the extortionate price of £5 for a 2 pence rubber ring!) said they sell "half a dozen a week, it's a popular part". I changed the housing at the same time as I had bought a new one anyway (from ebay for £10 not from Ford at £30 - interestingly all the markings were the same except for the Ford logo being missing). I guess all you need to fix this "common fault" is a £5 O-ring and some wet & dry to clean up its seating.
To gain access I had to remove the alternator (note the "automatic alternator belt tensioner" is underneath the car) and I also found it easier to remove the headlamp (easy to remove as it's only held in by three screws).
Not such a bad job really. Couple of hours work for the layman (probably half an hour for an experienced and skilled fitter).
Edited by mikdys on Monday 9th September 18:47
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