Discussion
I have this in plan for my jeep next year when i unleash it again, as far as im aware the 1.8td will go straight in on the mk3 cortina gearbox with a adapter plate (cost me £13)! you'l have to make your own engine mount though if your using a transverse engine from an escort or fiesta...... unless you can get ur hands on a rare as chickens teeth later sierra with the 1.8td fitted!! we have had a look and think it shouldnt be to difficult to use the escort loom and just to moddify it slightly!! u might have to make ur own parts to the loom tho! but cant be to difficult!
hope this is of some help to u!
Mal
hope this is of some help to u!
Mal
Yes quite a few years ago someone fitted a 1800 turbo diesel into a Geep.
It was the one from a front wheel drive as they commented at the end of their article that in hindsight they would have used the in line unit if they did it again.
It is easy enough to adapt the Escort wiring loom to run the diesel.
The easiest way to do it is use the ignition supply lead (usually goes to the positive of the coil) to supply the cut off solenoid. Make sure it is 12 volts (if needed remove the resistor wire from the lead).
You also connect the timer side of the glow plug relay to the "coil" wire as this basically (if working right) self switches off.
The heavy 12 volt lead to the glow plug relay comes straight from the battery (with a suitable rated fuse if possible) and then the output lead connects to the glow plugs via the cable/bar that links each plug.
This is the method we have used on the two 2.3 diesels we have fitted over the years (one our own and one on another owners Jago)
Remember to fit the glow warning light (any small panel warning light will do or somewhere like Europa does a range which you can get a variety of symbols for so can have the right symbol)so you know when the relay is running the plugs. Also if fitted on the 1800 (it is on the 2.3 diesels) the head overheat warning light which is wired to earth via the head sensor.(single connector type sensor)
It was the one from a front wheel drive as they commented at the end of their article that in hindsight they would have used the in line unit if they did it again.
It is easy enough to adapt the Escort wiring loom to run the diesel.
The easiest way to do it is use the ignition supply lead (usually goes to the positive of the coil) to supply the cut off solenoid. Make sure it is 12 volts (if needed remove the resistor wire from the lead).
You also connect the timer side of the glow plug relay to the "coil" wire as this basically (if working right) self switches off.
The heavy 12 volt lead to the glow plug relay comes straight from the battery (with a suitable rated fuse if possible) and then the output lead connects to the glow plugs via the cable/bar that links each plug.
This is the method we have used on the two 2.3 diesels we have fitted over the years (one our own and one on another owners Jago)
Remember to fit the glow warning light (any small panel warning light will do or somewhere like Europa does a range which you can get a variety of symbols for so can have the right symbol)so you know when the relay is running the plugs. Also if fitted on the 1800 (it is on the 2.3 diesels) the head overheat warning light which is wired to earth via the head sensor.(single connector type sensor)
Hi'
Thanks for all informatiom if any one else can think of any thing to look out for let me know.
I think my luck is in it look's like the 1.8 turbo diesel engine is a straight one from a Sierra so hope it will go straight in.
This geep I am putting engine into looks a little wider than the one I am driving around in at the moment the wings are diferent more flatter and dosen't slope down at the front like the one I have on the road was the style changed?
Robby
Thanks for all informatiom if any one else can think of any thing to look out for let me know.
I think my luck is in it look's like the 1.8 turbo diesel engine is a straight one from a Sierra so hope it will go straight in.
This geep I am putting engine into looks a little wider than the one I am driving around in at the moment the wings are diferent more flatter and dosen't slope down at the front like the one I have on the road was the style changed?
Robby
There were several versions produced over the life time of the vehicle. Below are the main changes although some slight aterations also occured over the years.
The very early ones were a copy of the Willys (the mould was taken from a rotted out Willys found in a hedge) so the wings were flat topped with the curved front edge and the rear wheel arches were flat on the body.
Then the wings were made squarer with a front slope and the rear arches were flanged so stuck out from the main body tub lines.
The bonnet changed from the flat bonnet with star on to the raised centre bonnet.
The front wings under went a further modification with a binnacle moulded into the front edge to place the indicator/side light units straight ahead instead of on a slope. The edges of the wings were "rolled" under to add some extra strength as well as making the edges more pedestrian safe to comply with various regulations.
The bonnet raised section increased slightly in height and gained a centre "fold".
The windscreen and its method of mounting to the body tub also changed over the years.
The various versions also had an option of wider front wings and rear arch spats to accomodate the trend for wide wheels which on the standard wings/arches would expose too much tyres tread on the side of the vehicle which would lead to legal problems.
Whether you have got one of the ones with the wider wings and spats.
The actual body tub dimensions did not alter too much after the very early "willys " version.
The very early ones were a copy of the Willys (the mould was taken from a rotted out Willys found in a hedge) so the wings were flat topped with the curved front edge and the rear wheel arches were flat on the body.
Then the wings were made squarer with a front slope and the rear arches were flanged so stuck out from the main body tub lines.
The bonnet changed from the flat bonnet with star on to the raised centre bonnet.
The front wings under went a further modification with a binnacle moulded into the front edge to place the indicator/side light units straight ahead instead of on a slope. The edges of the wings were "rolled" under to add some extra strength as well as making the edges more pedestrian safe to comply with various regulations.
The bonnet raised section increased slightly in height and gained a centre "fold".
The windscreen and its method of mounting to the body tub also changed over the years.
The various versions also had an option of wider front wings and rear arch spats to accomodate the trend for wide wheels which on the standard wings/arches would expose too much tyres tread on the side of the vehicle which would lead to legal problems.
Whether you have got one of the ones with the wider wings and spats.
The actual body tub dimensions did not alter too much after the very early "willys " version.
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