Rear Upper Wishbone, adjustment of upright using washers

[TVR Beaver]

When I did my arms and bushes a while back I made sure the upright went dead centre of the upper wishbone nip so the system was not under stress as one side was pushing forwards a lot and needed a lever bar to get it into the upper arm... I did this by slightly twisting the lower arms by locating of 3 points and 'adjusting' the 4th.. great.. and all went back a treat with about 3.5mm washers both sides of the upright to centralise them in the nip.... (so nip gap about 7mm)

Since its turned left great but felt funny going into a right hander like the back needs to come round a bit before it likes to go... so my thinking is, one wheels in front of the other a tad?...

So I pushed the driver's side back in the nip now just using a 1.5mm washer in place of the 3.5 so moving it 2mm (and adding 2mm to the other side) as I'm thinking it's this one... and it does appear to turn right now a lot better....

Anyone else had to do this?

question is, do I leave it like this for the geo set up.. or put it back how it was and let them adjust it out if they can.. or at least report on how far out the LHS is to the RHS ?.... If ived moved it 2mm at the top I've only moved the hub back about 1mm... should this make a differance??

[Pupp]

Think I'd be inclined to let it sit as it wants to within the brackets (ie without being loaded up by being 'forced' into another attitude) and then see where the geo exercise takes it on the adjusters.

What struck me from your description 'though, was the packing of the camber clamp with washers... have you used enough packers to fill all the space either side of the upright (so the clamp is snug before tightening), or spaced just enough to let the clamp pull onto and nip the inner sleeve? What I'm getting at, is I don't recall the sleeve being long enough on mine to accommodate 7mm of spacers...

[TVR Beaver]

No.. your right.. the nip is actualy at a nast angle when you first look at it.. what I did was push the front arm end forward a bit to make the nip parallel and hence the gaps.. the spacers are the the OD of the bolt so the tube clamps against them.....

[spend]

Wait till you see the data on the laser alignment, then make a decision.

[TVR Beaver]

I've never seen the result sheets from these things.. can they actualy give you dim's on wheel positions?.. I've seen angles quoted before on a post on here, but not an actual plan showing hub ctrs?

[spend]

You'll see if you can't swing the thrust angle pos to neg (ie across centre line).

I can't really visualize what you have done apart from drifting open the chassis lugs too much to insert bushes or the bushes being the wrong size?? Still I'd wait & see what happens when you get the thrust correct (or if your 'mods' are preventing you from setting the thrust then redress the mod).

[TVR Beaver]

I just made the forward bit of the arm where it clamps the upright parallel to the back bit.... as it was at a nasty angle... This in turn made the gap bigger and I filled the gap with equally spaced washers. As it was, there was a chance of the top of the upright pushing in, whereas with the two faces nice and parallel, it should clamp where it's put

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