Rear wish bones

[jojackson4]

Mine have cracked where the ARB drop links bolt on is there any tips or is it a cut weld and refit job
Thanks Peter

[TJC46]

jojackson4 said:

Mine have cracked where the ARB drop links bolt on is there any tips or is it a cut weld and refit job
Thanks Peter

Cut and weld. you can buy new arb plates, they have a v-shape in the side which gives them more strength. Best to do both sides.

[jamienshelly]

My n/s plate broke of and frightened the life out of me as it dropped and was flailing about on the road.
I just removed the roll bar and wishbone and welded a really thick piece in its place (after carefully measuring), drilled a hole then refitted.
As long as the lower face of the bracket is as original and its going to be a lot stronger than the original.
from what I have read some people don't even use a rear roll bar, may be someone can comment and you could just remove the bar and job done

[jojackson4]

Thanks gents
I miged it up a month ago but out side so it doesn't look good
I will be pulling both bones an replacing with a bit of upgraded steel
I will tig them when there off

I may treat it to some of raceing greens drop links all round while am at it

[Jonny_b]

Have you seen these for the front?

http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/C00...

[brett84]

my ARB mount isn't there and the general opinion I got from owners was to remove the rear ARB as it didn't make handling any better?

[QBee]

brett84 said:

my ARB mount isn't there and the general opinion I got from owners was to remove the rear ARB as it didn't make handling any better?

I was on track this week with new dampers on the car.
Road setting was 7 clicks up from max soft at the front, 6 at the rear. Any harder and it shook my fillings out of my teeth.
On track we cranked both way up (16 front to stop the nose diving under braking, 13 rear). But I noticed that the rear was hopping on tight bends. Softened the rear dampers right back down to 6 clicks again, in stages, and at that setting the rear of the car really handled well. Spoke to my TVR guy at the end of the session, he said if he had been there he would have removed the rear ARB to see if it improved the handling even further. His comment to me while fitting the dampers was that the rear ARB needed to be about a foot longer to be of any real use whatsoever.

So the previous post exactly stacks up with this.

[jojackson4]

Jonny_b said:

Have you seen these for the front?

http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/C00...

They look the same as the R/G ones

[jojackson4]

QBee said:

brett84 said:

my ARB mount isn't there and the general opinion I got from owners was to remove the rear ARB as it didn't make handling any better?

I was on track this week with new dampers on the car.
Road setting was 7 clicks up from max soft at the front, 6 at the rear. Any harder and it shook my fillings out of my teeth.
On track we cranked both way up (16 front to stop the nose diving under braking, 13 rear). But I noticed that the rear was hopping on tight bends. Softened the rear dampers right back down to 6 clicks again, in stages, and at that setting the rear of the car really handled well. Spoke to my TVR guy at the end of the session, he said if he had been there he would have removed the rear ARB to see if it improved the handling even further. His comment to me while fitting the dampers was that the rear ARB needed to be about a foot longer to be of any real use whatsoever.

So the previous post exactly stacks up with this.

Read this my self but did notice that the rear was a bit waggly when the plate was cracked and had bent about 1" so not keen on nobing the ARB off