Vixen rear screen
Discussion
Hi Rob
Not much help but this is my post of a few months ago so you have been warned...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I did not use adhesive what's that for then ?
Not much help but this is my post of a few months ago so you have been warned...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I did not use adhesive what's that for then ?
Sorry I didn't make myself clear. The screen is already fitted but before I insert the locking strip I want to apply a suitable sealer. I spoke to someone at Leiter Motor Co (my screen supplier) who runs a Grantura. He told me he used a sealer with an adhesive element in it which helps prevent the screen parting company with the car when doing no more than 70mph. He told me he got this product from Adrian but as I mentioned previously Adrian hasn't got any of this stuff and couldn't remember what it was called, so I thought I would ask a wider audience.
Having taken my rear screen out of the Vixen a few times, I always use a eurathene adhesive when replacing.
Its the same stuff that the windscreen guys use to secure windscreens into modern cars. When cured it holds the screen in place,(mine has never popped out),it does however take a bit of removing, but, most importantly, the bugger does not leak !!
Roy
Its the same stuff that the windscreen guys use to secure windscreens into modern cars. When cured it holds the screen in place,(mine has never popped out),it does however take a bit of removing, but, most importantly, the bugger does not leak !!
Roy
Try this stuff, it worked for me after several (failed) attempts with all sorts of other stuff....
http://www.arbo.co.uk/arbo-sealants/arbomast-autog...
It doesn't set hard so allows the screen to "move" without losing the watertightness (good word?)
P.
http://www.arbo.co.uk/arbo-sealants/arbomast-autog...
It doesn't set hard so allows the screen to "move" without losing the watertightness (good word?)
P.
Adrian@'s advice to me was to use a setting sealant rather than the non-set stuff. His logic was that you need some bonding to hold the screen in place rather than let it move as an M shell is not the most rigid thing in the world.
edit - oops missed the not...
edit - oops missed the not...
Edited by GadgeS3C on Monday 16th September 11:59
GadgeS3C said:
Adrian@'s advice to me was to use a setting sealant rather than the non-set stuff. His logic was that you need some bonding to hold the screen in place rather than let it move as an M shell is not the most rigid thing in the world.
edit - oops missed the not...
Always more than one way of looking at these things. Admitedly all TVR bodies flex but you will need some SERIOUS sealer to stop the body flex. Assuming such a thing exists where will the energy go to stop the flexing? It can only either break the glass or crack the body. edit - oops missed the not...
Edited by GadgeS3C on Monday 16th September 11:59
I may have a different view!
thegamekeeper said:
GadgeS3C said:
Adrian@'s advice to me was to use a setting sealant rather than the non-set stuff. His logic was that you need some bonding to hold the screen in place rather than let it move as an M shell is not the most rigid thing in the world.
edit - oops missed the not...
Always more than one way of looking at these things. Admitedly all TVR bodies flex but you will need some SERIOUS sealer to stop the body flex. Assuming such a thing exists where will the energy go to stop the flexing? It can only either break the glass or crack the body. edit - oops missed the not...
Edited by GadgeS3C on Monday 16th September 11:59
I may have a different view!
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But you put the sealer in before you put the locking strip in which is what he was saying.