Saab 1.9 diesel engine problem
Discussion
Hi all
Firstly, mods if I have put this in the wrong place, apologies! Please move it
I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 sportwagon with the 1.9 diseasal lump in it. It's just ticked over 83k miles, and I have become increasingly aware of a problem with it. Under gentle acceleration between 1.5 and2k revs the engine 'staggers' (it's almost as if it misses a beat, then gets going again). I've read a little about this engine, and know that the EGR value and the swirl flaps are problems, could these symptoms be as a result of this?
I have already taken the car to the local garage, who whacked his diagnostic machine in, but no faults showed. He's put some cleaner in the fuel, which does seem to have helped but the problem is still present.
Any suggestions as to what could be causing it?
Thanks in advance!
Firstly, mods if I have put this in the wrong place, apologies! Please move it
I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 sportwagon with the 1.9 diseasal lump in it. It's just ticked over 83k miles, and I have become increasingly aware of a problem with it. Under gentle acceleration between 1.5 and2k revs the engine 'staggers' (it's almost as if it misses a beat, then gets going again). I've read a little about this engine, and know that the EGR value and the swirl flaps are problems, could these symptoms be as a result of this?
I have already taken the car to the local garage, who whacked his diagnostic machine in, but no faults showed. He's put some cleaner in the fuel, which does seem to have helped but the problem is still present.
Any suggestions as to what could be causing it?
Thanks in advance!
The thread has pretty much hit on the three most likely causes of the problem (one of which isn't the fuel filter!)
If the EGR solenoid is sticking I would expect it to flag an error, but not necessarily. Don't replace the solenoid but instead look up the guide in the Alfa forums (same engine) on how to re-con it yourself with a drill, pin punch and a can or two of carb cleaner. Grease it up with heat-proof silicone grease to prevent it re-seizing.
Swirl flaps are a bigger issue unfortunately and will probably require a new inlet manifold and actuator as both are non serviceable. You can check if they are moving freely by disconnecting the operating bar from the actuator and trying to operate them by hand. Any resistance means the plastic bearings are ruined.
Another possibility is that the turbo vane actuator is sticking or there is a leak in the vaccuum pipe to it.
If the EGR solenoid is sticking I would expect it to flag an error, but not necessarily. Don't replace the solenoid but instead look up the guide in the Alfa forums (same engine) on how to re-con it yourself with a drill, pin punch and a can or two of carb cleaner. Grease it up with heat-proof silicone grease to prevent it re-seizing.
Swirl flaps are a bigger issue unfortunately and will probably require a new inlet manifold and actuator as both are non serviceable. You can check if they are moving freely by disconnecting the operating bar from the actuator and trying to operate them by hand. Any resistance means the plastic bearings are ruined.
Another possibility is that the turbo vane actuator is sticking or there is a leak in the vaccuum pipe to it.
d under hard accelleration.Owned one of these for two years and 45k. Sounds like the EGR valve. I had similar issues with mine. Can be serviced or they are about £45 for a new unit and I think the ECU needs to re-programmed afterwards, but not 100% sure on that.
If you don't fancy doing a DIY and you like in the south east, I recommend SaabTech in Wellyn Garden City. Been a Saab specialist for years and have recently been approved as an official Saab Repair Centre.
If you don't fancy doing a DIY and you like in the south east, I recommend SaabTech in Wellyn Garden City. Been a Saab specialist for years and have recently been approved as an official Saab Repair Centre.
Well you can check the swirl flaps yourself, no tools or equipment needed, just your eyes!
Pull off the plastic engine cover. Look down into the top of the engine towards the back where the inlet manifold meets the engine. It is like a valley and you will see in the bottom a flat bar that should be fitted to 4 round black plastic pieces. If the bar is not attached to the plastic pieces then the flaps have seized so you need a new inlet manifold.
If the bar is still attached see if you can gently move it from side to side. If it moves then probably okay. If not then seized.
Usually you get a P0400 fault code of some description when the EGR valve seizes up. The feedback voltage should have been checked on the diagnostic tool - just looking for fault codes is not the way to check this. The tool should also have been used to operate the EGR valve either on or off the engine to check if it is working.
It is quite common to not get any fault codes if the swirl flaps have seized/failed. If they fail stuck wide open you often get fault code P2279 - air leak detected.
HTH
Pull off the plastic engine cover. Look down into the top of the engine towards the back where the inlet manifold meets the engine. It is like a valley and you will see in the bottom a flat bar that should be fitted to 4 round black plastic pieces. If the bar is not attached to the plastic pieces then the flaps have seized so you need a new inlet manifold.
If the bar is still attached see if you can gently move it from side to side. If it moves then probably okay. If not then seized.
Usually you get a P0400 fault code of some description when the EGR valve seizes up. The feedback voltage should have been checked on the diagnostic tool - just looking for fault codes is not the way to check this. The tool should also have been used to operate the EGR valve either on or off the engine to check if it is working.
It is quite common to not get any fault codes if the swirl flaps have seized/failed. If they fail stuck wide open you often get fault code P2279 - air leak detected.
HTH
Well you can check the swirl flaps yourself, no tools or equipment needed, just your eyes!
Pull off the plastic engine cover. Look down into the top of the engine towards the back where the inlet manifold meets the engine. It is like a valley and you will see in the bottom a flat bar that should be fitted to 4 round black plastic pieces. If the bar is not attached to the plastic pieces then the flaps have seized so you need a new inlet manifold.
If the bar is still attached see if you can gently move it from side to side. If it moves then probably okay. If not then seized.
Usually you get a P0400 fault code of some description when the EGR valve seizes up. The feedback voltage should have been checked on the diagnostic tool - just looking for fault codes is not the way to check this. The tool should also have been used to operate the EGR valve either on or off the engine to check if it is working.
It is quite common to not get any fault codes if the swirl flaps have seized/failed. If they fail stuck wide open you often get fault code P2279 - air leak detected.
HTH
Pull off the plastic engine cover. Look down into the top of the engine towards the back where the inlet manifold meets the engine. It is like a valley and you will see in the bottom a flat bar that should be fitted to 4 round black plastic pieces. If the bar is not attached to the plastic pieces then the flaps have seized so you need a new inlet manifold.
If the bar is still attached see if you can gently move it from side to side. If it moves then probably okay. If not then seized.
Usually you get a P0400 fault code of some description when the EGR valve seizes up. The feedback voltage should have been checked on the diagnostic tool - just looking for fault codes is not the way to check this. The tool should also have been used to operate the EGR valve either on or off the engine to check if it is working.
It is quite common to not get any fault codes if the swirl flaps have seized/failed. If they fail stuck wide open you often get fault code P2279 - air leak detected.
HTH
It's the same engine as some Vauxhalls as well. The swirl flaps can be removed with the use of this, search ebay for "kit De-flap Kit Vauxhall Z19DTH 1.9 CDTi 150bhp Diesel Inlet Manifold Saab Alfa etc" but you need to be quite useful with a spanner.
The EGR can be blanked off & mapped out, there's a guy in Kent that does this for about a £100.
I cleaned the inlet manifold pressure sensor, as has already been suggested, & it did make a big difference but it still occasionally has the odd hiccup. The manifolds get full of crap with all the environmental nonsense they are fitted with.
I will be removing the swirl flaps, cleaning the manifold & blanking the egr on mine sometime over winter which I'm hoping will cure the problem mine has completely.
The EGR can be blanked off & mapped out, there's a guy in Kent that does this for about a £100.
I cleaned the inlet manifold pressure sensor, as has already been suggested, & it did make a big difference but it still occasionally has the odd hiccup. The manifolds get full of crap with all the environmental nonsense they are fitted with.
I will be removing the swirl flaps, cleaning the manifold & blanking the egr on mine sometime over winter which I'm hoping will cure the problem mine has completely.
Edited by mygoldfishbowl on Tuesday 10th September 16:57
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