Discussion
Hello from reading a few post you seem an approachable bunch so I was just wondering if you can impart some wisdom on purchasing a griffith. My Father-in-law is getting rid of his RX8 and has always wanted a grif and as he has no internet access has asked if I could find out what to look out for.
He's thinking of 16-17k so I reckon mid to late 1990's 5.0l would that be right? Are there any particular points to consider with this age and what about milage is it a problem with the V8's. Not to be disrespectful but the home made engines(speed 6 and ajp) haven't had the best of histories. This is all from a none TVR owner(993 and integrale) so please treat me kind. As a peace offering I have to admit after a 993 with sports exhaust a griffith is the best sounding car out there!
He's thinking of 16-17k so I reckon mid to late 1990's 5.0l would that be right? Are there any particular points to consider with this age and what about milage is it a problem with the V8's. Not to be disrespectful but the home made engines(speed 6 and ajp) haven't had the best of histories. This is all from a none TVR owner(993 and integrale) so please treat me kind. As a peace offering I have to admit after a 993 with sports exhaust a griffith is the best sounding car out there!
go on and push the budget a bit harder.
This one must be worth a look
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=30922&s=3
Hope you dont mind starmist
This one must be worth a look
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=30922&s=3
Hope you dont mind starmist
old64er said:
go on and push the budget a bit harder.
This one must be worth a look
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=30922&s=3
Hope you dont mind starmist
minds and great come to mined
All well and good but to quote my English teacher you haven't answered the question.BTW He doesn't want spend any more has he is taking early retirement and wants a runaround aswell.Has been told he might get 30mpg I told him downhill with following wind mind you he only gets 23-4 mpg out of his 1.3 wankel!
You might want to add £1000 or so for a late 90s car. General rule, buy the best the can afford and try to keep a bit back for the inevitable - or be able to afford an unexpected bill out of your earnings.
There is great pleasure to be had from Griffith ownership and also great pain (not only in the wallet).
A car that's been used regularly should be more reliable than one that's only done a couple of thousand miles a year.
There's a milestone in 1994/5 when they fitted the Borg Warner T5 gearbox instead of the Rover unit. You can tell these since they have matching instruments as well.
Early non-cat cars have a strong following and a genuine 4.3 big valve commands a premium.
Modded ones are not necessarily to be shyed away from, as long as they are recognised mods from a community of experts on these cars, however they don't necessarily attract a premium.
Overall condition is more important than age and mileage. there are a number of experts who will help you find a good car for a small premium.
Hope that helps!
There is great pleasure to be had from Griffith ownership and also great pain (not only in the wallet).
A car that's been used regularly should be more reliable than one that's only done a couple of thousand miles a year.
There's a milestone in 1994/5 when they fitted the Borg Warner T5 gearbox instead of the Rover unit. You can tell these since they have matching instruments as well.
Early non-cat cars have a strong following and a genuine 4.3 big valve commands a premium.
Modded ones are not necessarily to be shyed away from, as long as they are recognised mods from a community of experts on these cars, however they don't necessarily attract a premium.
Overall condition is more important than age and mileage. there are a number of experts who will help you find a good car for a small premium.
Hope that helps!
starmist said:
You might want to add £1000 or so for a late 90s car. General rule, buy the best the can afford and try to keep a bit back for the inevitable - or be able to afford an unexpected bill out of your earnings.
There is great pleasure to be had from Griffith ownership and also great pain (not only in the wallet).
A car that's been used regularly should be more reliable than one that's only done a couple of thousand miles a year.
There's a milestone in 1994/5 when they fitted the Borg Warner T5 gearbox instead of the Rover unit. You can tell these since they have matching instruments as well.
Early non-cat cars have a strong following and a genuine 4.3 big valve commands a premium.
Modded ones are not necessarily to be shyed away from, as long as they are recognised mods from a community of experts on these cars, however they don't necessarily attract a premium.
Overall condition is more important than age and mileage. there are a number of experts who will help you find a good car for a small premium.
Hope that helps!
Good advice
Another way to identify your gear box is that on SD1's reverse is on the left, and on BW boxes its on the right.
Hi MPG. I agree with the comments about the gearbox, and ppl say the serpentine engines are better devloped, too. Called that cos a single flat ridged drive belt on the front of the engine takes a serpentine route round about 7 pulleys and drives everything. Late 94 onwards I think.
The Chim 500 from the late 90s is the same car under the skin as the Griffith 500 I believe, and there may be more choice at your price. The older/smaller engined cars did have a few minor differences.
My 500 gets 17 - 20 mpg. I'm sure 22 is possible on a gentle run.
I reckon I have halved my service costs by using respected independants, doing some minor things myself, and lifting the bonnet weekly to check fluids, strange noises etc.
Its a very different ownership experience from most modern cars - more of a hobby than a means of transport! Make sure it suits him - join the TVRCC, get along to meetings, talk to owners, ride in a few, etc.
And - leaving this till last cos I can't run fast in my flameproof suit - mine was fine up to 60000 miles, but has let me down a few times since then. Just one car, of course, I'm sure others can report better / different / worse experiences.
>> Edited by deeen on Tuesday 26th October 11:29
The Chim 500 from the late 90s is the same car under the skin as the Griffith 500 I believe, and there may be more choice at your price. The older/smaller engined cars did have a few minor differences.
My 500 gets 17 - 20 mpg. I'm sure 22 is possible on a gentle run.
I reckon I have halved my service costs by using respected independants, doing some minor things myself, and lifting the bonnet weekly to check fluids, strange noises etc.
Its a very different ownership experience from most modern cars - more of a hobby than a means of transport! Make sure it suits him - join the TVRCC, get along to meetings, talk to owners, ride in a few, etc.
And - leaving this till last cos I can't run fast in my flameproof suit - mine was fine up to 60000 miles, but has let me down a few times since then. Just one car, of course, I'm sure others can report better / different / worse experiences.
>> Edited by deeen on Tuesday 26th October 11:29
Mine's a 94 pre-serp 500 with SD1 box and I'm still as passionatly in love with it as when I bought it 18 months ago. I agree that you should go for the later spec car if your budget stretches to it, but as someone said, condition is more important than this.
Don't listen to Deeeen above, Griffs the way to go. By the way Deeeeen, have you resprayed that patch you rubbed down last year (assuming you're the Deeeen in the orange Chimeara who came on the C3C rumble earlier this year!).
Steve
Don't listen to Deeeen above, Griffs the way to go. By the way Deeeeen, have you resprayed that patch you rubbed down last year (assuming you're the Deeeen in the orange Chimeara who came on the C3C rumble earlier this year!).
Steve
[quote=deeen]
I reckon I have halved my service costs by using respected independants, doing some minor things myself, and lifting the bonnet weekly to check fluids, strange noises etc.
Agree totally with the above.
Mine has now done 81000 and with the above method (and all fingers crossed) so far so good.
As long as you remember with the older models you need to provide plenty of TLC they will give great grins.
Elizabeth
I reckon I have halved my service costs by using respected independants, doing some minor things myself, and lifting the bonnet weekly to check fluids, strange noises etc.
Agree totally with the above.
Mine has now done 81000 and with the above method (and all fingers crossed) so far so good.
As long as you remember with the older models you need to provide plenty of TLC they will give great grins.
Elizabeth
I have some info/Guidelines on Buying Here and also some History
I would reommend buying Steve Heaths( www.tvrbooks.co.uk/ ) book we call the Bible as this covers just about everthing you need to know about the TVR Griffith.
BB
ps anyone think of anything I can add to the Buyers Guide please feel free to let me know.
I would reommend buying Steve Heaths( www.tvrbooks.co.uk/ ) book we call the Bible as this covers just about everthing you need to know about the TVR Griffith.
BB
ps anyone think of anything I can add to the Buyers Guide please feel free to let me know.
Thanks everybody for your welcome advice. My father-in-law likes getting his hands dirty (he has dropped a k series into an MG midget amongst other things)so the fact that the griffith is not like other modern cars is an appeal rather than worry! I'll let you know the outcome.Knowing him it'll be sooner rather than later ie quite determined abit like his daughter!!!!
starmist said:
Early non-cat cars have a strong following and a genuine 4.3 big valve commands a premium.
According to the new TVr book, there were only 3 (or was it 4?) genuine 4.3BVs made.
I'm sure I've seen a lot more than that for sale! Are they genuine?
Yup and mine has been converted guenuinely by me
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