Strange oil pressure behaviour?
Discussion
When my oil level gets down to the minimum, and I go round corners, my oil pressure goes down, but the light never came on, fill up with oil and all is good.
Last night when I was out my oil light was flickering and sometime coming on, but I still have 40 psi on the gauge. Not checked the level yet, was full before I went out.
Anyone else had this?
Last night when I was out my oil light was flickering and sometime coming on, but I still have 40 psi on the gauge. Not checked the level yet, was full before I went out.
Anyone else had this?
If the light comes on while you have good pressure on the mechanical gauge then suspect the sensor (conveniently hidden under the coil packs).
If the pressure on the gauge drops when cornering but is otherwise OK then you don't have enough oil in it regardless of what the dipstick says.
If the light comes on and the gauge drops then when it is full then hit the stop button sharpish and coast to a halt if need be.
If the pressure on the gauge drops when cornering but is otherwise OK then you don't have enough oil in it regardless of what the dipstick says.
If the light comes on and the gauge drops then when it is full then hit the stop button sharpish and coast to a halt if need be.
C3BER said:
How often does it drop to its low level?
Don't believe the light and taking readings off the dip stick can be a black art.
You may have a lose connection and you maybe reading the level wrong.
Depends how I've been driving it Don't believe the light and taking readings off the dip stick can be a black art.
You may have a lose connection and you maybe reading the level wrong.
. The euro trip just gone it used 3l in 1100 miles! But that was all very enthusiastic driving! It doesn't usually use more than a litre per 2000 milesYeah I found out the dipstick can lie!
Tanguero said:
If the light comes on while you have good pressure on the mechanical gauge then suspect the sensor (conveniently hidden under the coil packs).
If the pressure on the gauge drops when cornering but is otherwise OK then you don't have enough oil in it regardless of what the dipstick says.
If the light comes on and the gauge drops then when it is full then hit the stop button sharpish and coast to a halt if need be.
The mech gauge was doing the normal stuff so I suspected the sender, ah another job to do at 12,000 service!If the pressure on the gauge drops when cornering but is otherwise OK then you don't have enough oil in it regardless of what the dipstick says.
If the light comes on and the gauge drops then when it is full then hit the stop button sharpish and coast to a halt if need be.
Does anyone know if the sump is baffled to stop the oil slopping everywhere?
ridds said:
It can be a complete arse to get to as well if the bolts are stuck in the captive nuts.
They do fail fairly often.
As for the sump, pretty much nothing. They do have a rudimentary crank scraper but it's not fantastic.
Thanks. Does anyone modify them? or has anyone had theirs modified?They do fail fairly often.
As for the sump, pretty much nothing. They do have a rudimentary crank scraper but it's not fantastic.
jonathantwidale said:
Not sure why you need to modify the sump as I do a lot of track days with race pads for hard braking and sticky track tyres in my west field. Never seen an oil pressure problem in this sort of use.
Totally agree, never saw this problem in my track Clio, but this is a TVR! Lol
Vee8ight, I'd agree that gauge is more likely to be correct than the switch. I haven't checked the wiring of oil pressure in my Cerb but the oil pressure switch normally would provide an earth to engine block when pressure is low, thereby turning on the oil pressure light. Might be a oil pressure switch failure, but knowing Cerbs and their habit of developing wiring faults, I'd start by checking the wiring between the oil pressure switch and the oil pressure light. If the insulation on wiring has rubbed through somewhere and is intermitently touching earthed metal that would explain the problem.
Before removing the switch, you could try checking the more obvious wiring around the engine for damage. Then disconnect the wiring at at the sensor end. From memory it's just about possible to get the connector off with your fingers without having to dismantle too much. If you still get an occasional light on, then it's a wiring fault. If not then it's probably the oil pressure switch.
Before removing the switch, you could try checking the more obvious wiring around the engine for damage. Then disconnect the wiring at at the sensor end. From memory it's just about possible to get the connector off with your fingers without having to dismantle too much. If you still get an occasional light on, then it's a wiring fault. If not then it's probably the oil pressure switch.
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