Discussion
Just want to say a massive public thanks to David at Clarion, called him yesterday regarding the Hot Start Kit, he explained all the ins, outs, whys and history. It arrived today and was installed in under 20 minutes. It has a very funky built in LED circuit tester so you don't even need to break out the multimeter! It really is simple very to fit. Great stuff, gives me a bit of piece of mind - nothing more tragic than a stranded chimp.
If you need one, call Clarion on 01285 861861 and ask for David.
If you need one, call Clarion on 01285 861861 and ask for David.
taylormj4 said:
How does it work then. Always been rather sceptical about these kits as I don't see how they can work but lots of people have installed them and say that they do.
It takes all the load out of the ign switch and immobilizer relay and associated wiring thus taking the strain with a shorter more heavy duty circuit & sending more juice to the starter solenoid 
and is it genuinely easy to fit even for a complete mechanical numpty! I think I read somewhere on here that you don't actually need to do this as all you need to do is fit a thicker wire from the battery to the starter motor - however, maybe that's trickier than fitting the hot start kit thingy?
I fitted the 'bypass relay' it was a simple exercise, all done in the passenger footwell above the battery, great instruction's, with pictures. so far so good. I do believe you could run a thicker wire to the starter motor, but that cant be as easy as fitting this. It costs 5p short of forty quid, well worth it.
Thank you for posting this.
Thank you for posting this.
SILICONEKID343HP said:
Can anyone tell me which circuit is causing the problem ,I`m sure bypassing it is the best way ,still plenty of things being turned off by the immobilizer .
As I understand it, it's a the little bell wire running from the ignition to the footwell, TVR include these in the circuit to the solenoid - hence the issue, they lose too much juice themselves to even actuate the solenoid. What the relay does is allow the proper landrover loom to provide all of the power to the solenoid bypassing the crappy wiring altogether - as landrover intended.It passed a proper trial by fire at TiTT (the day after I installed it) where I stopped and started the engine several times whilst the fans were blazing... not a hitch.
Edited by zacherynuk on Sunday 6th October 17:27
I have never witnessed bell wire on the starter circuit of these cars apparently TVR just deleted the RR relay circuit that would of originally been fitted to the source vehicle 
+ the ignition switch was never designed to pass current to a starter solenoid no bigger than for a 2.0 
I never experienced the hot start problem in over 2 years of summer use but fitted one anyway to prolong my immobilizer circuit that was over 5 years ago and still never had a non start hot or cold 
+ the ignition switch was never designed to pass current to a starter solenoid no bigger than for a 2.0 I never experienced the hot start problem in over 2 years of summer use but fitted one anyway to prolong my immobilizer circuit that was over 5 years ago and still never had a non start hot or cold For two pins I would remove the lot and have a flashing diode on the dash with a switch discreetly hidden just to break the ignition or something.
Who cares, it`s not an expensive car ,just a 90`s jalopy!
Less to go wrong and the end to faulty alarms and hot start problems.
Who cares, it`s not an expensive car ,just a 90`s jalopy!
Less to go wrong and the end to faulty alarms and hot start problems.
Edited by SILICONEKID343HP on Sunday 6th October 19:13
edo said:
My understanding talking to the genius that is Carl Baker, is that a hot start kit isn't required, and hides the root of the problem - the factory alarm.
Sorting out the alarm with a new unit is all you need to do.
Don't agree with this its not just an immobilizer issue Sorting out the alarm with a new unit is all you need to do.
you sure you heard right? Daz the relay sits besides the battery box. I fitted the hot start kit to the wifes 1999 Chim 500 a couple off years back. It solved the problem for a while but then it started blowing its 20 amp fuse when starting. A new starter motor cured the problem.
If heat alone is causing the problem then all new Chims would have been sent back to Blackpool by their disgruntled owners as soon as they tried a hot start for the first time. So degradation over time also plays a big part of the problem.
If heat alone is causing the problem then all new Chims would have been sent back to Blackpool by their disgruntled owners as soon as they tried a hot start for the first time. So degradation over time also plays a big part of the problem.
Darren, for the 40 you get instructions, with pictures, and a few wires to connect, it was easy to fit, in the passenger foot well with the battery. You will have no problem fitting it. if you need one, speak to David at Clarion, if your Chimaera is a late one like mine, you can call me on 07831333314 and I will tell you how easy it is. I only have had it on since Saturday, but I have not had the problem, on sunday.
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