Hinge Pins and Bushes

[smithy63]

Hi All
I am about to have a go at refurbing a spare set of Vixen/M series hinges. Got the old Pins out and am now ready to do a bit of turning.
My question is what would be the best material to use for the Pins and Bushes (Bushes are needed as the original holes are worn oval).
Is it stainless pins and phosphor bronze bushes, would stainless pins and stainless bushes work?
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Andy

[griff 200]

Stainless pins and nylatron bushes. Or plain nylon. Is what I normally use. Nylatron can be got on eBay. Good luck richard.

Edited by griff 200 on Friday 27th September 20:37

[smithy63]

Hi Griff 200

Thanks for that, would never have thought of that combination. Cast or extruded? or does it not matter.
As you can tell its not a material I,m familiar with.

Andy

[griff 200]

I think it's GS or gsm extruded gray it has moly di in it we use it for small bushes all the way up to 50ton digger bucket pin bushes it lasts longer than standard bushes And is self lubing I have a set of m hinges myself that need doing ,thanks for reminding me. Richard

[RCK974X]

I drilled mine out slightly as they were scored (and one had half a pin corroded into it) and used ordinary round steel bar (8mm I think), but added a grease nipple in each hinge - there is a space where a nipple will just fit without fouling anything.

been OK so far....

[heightswitch]

I had this conversation with Adrian many moons ago.

Adrian made me some brand new housings up for dads car and bushed with a silver steel pin and pop top to allow oiling.

Other option could be ream out bronse bush and spiral pin??
Either way you generally need to ream back to round since its the cast arm that wears oval.

Adrian had a long play with mine and may have further refined.

If you are re-furbing then a bronze bush and harder pin will always allow re-bushing back to standard and the softer bronze will remain sacrificial
Nylatron won't last as long but its self lubricating and much much cheaper than PB1, probably just as good for a door hinge.

Adrian
Had you finalised your production version??

N.

Edited by heightswitch on Friday 27th September 22:28

Edited by heightswitch on Friday 27th September 22:30

Edited by heightswitch on Friday 27th September 22:32

[smithy63]

Hi Neil

All the wear "appears" to have taken place in the housings, the bores in the alloy arms seem ok.
My first thoughts where PB1 for the bushes, just didnt want to fit everything back up after fettling and after half a dozen opening and closings be back to sagging doors

Many thanks to all

Andy

[catfishdb]

As others, I have had a go at solving the premature wearing of the hinge.
I bored out the original aluminum extrusion to insert a bronze rod. Bored out a hole in the bronze to receive the original pin. I did turn the pins slightly as they were not so much out of round but not exactly straight.
It is too bad the hinges were not set in the door/body further apart to reduce some of the strain on the upper hinge.

Arthur

[heightswitch]

smithy63 said:

Hi Neil

All the wear "appears" to have taken place in the housings, the bores in the alloy arms seem ok.
My first thoughts where PB1 for the bushes, just didnt want to fit everything back up after fettling and after half a dozen opening and closings be back to sagging doors

Many thanks to all

Andy

Housings wear when the pin seizes in the bore of the arm and the pin turns with the hinge.
from memory their isn't much of a bearing surface in the housings themselves but that point has a lot of leverage. PB1 tophats are probably a bit longer lasting than nylatron and easier to turn down so thin.
Other option is to weld new washers with correct ID holes onto housings and then correctly bush the hinge pins through the housings to allow for a sacrificial wear surface

Adrian has tried various methods before settling on his preferred, I still like the spiral or hollow spring pin idea and nipples are always a good thing...

N.

[griff 200]

When my machine shop man made me some (plastic ) bushes a thought do chance. As a gray hair I though that bronze etc was the way yo go. But my man is in his seventies and is a top engineer so I took his advice .the bronze bushes were lasting six months the new nylatron bushes are now two years old and still good so just because it's a modern material does not mean its inferrer ????? Good luck anyway. Richard

[smithy63]

Hi Richard

From one grey hair to another : I may well give Nylatron a go, what have I got to lose. Seems to me that there isn't a definitive answer to the problem. Each to their own experience I suppose.
Many Thanks for all the input.

Andy

[Adrian@]

Mon dieu... for what I do is TOO cheap!!...together with new bolts and washer ready for the customer to fit...'Exactly' as ever.
Adrian@
Although I have 50 plus complete units on the shelf, these are customers exchange only.

edited to remove price!! because...

Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 3rd October 11:02

[smithy63]

Hi Adrian,

That is brilliant, will contact you tomorrow, if thats ok with you.

Andy

[Hansoplast]

Hi Gents,

Cleaning my Vixen S3 doorhinges I do not feel any play in the pins. So far so good.
But I noticed that one hinge differs from three others. (see pics)
Extra bracket and 2 threaded holes in alu part.
Is that for door stop ?. And if so how does it work?
And only on drivers door and not the other door?

Hope to get some info.

Hans

|http://thumbsnap.com/ymoZFg5d[/url][url]

[Hansoplast]

Hi Gents,

Cleaning my Vixen S3 doorhinges I do not feel any play in the pins. So far so good.
But I noticed that one hinge differs from three others. (see pics)
Extra bracket and 2 threaded holes in alu part.
Is that for door stop ?. And if so how does it work?
And only on drivers door and not the other door?

Hope to get some info.

Hans

|http://thumbsnap.com/ymoZFg5d[/url][url]