Driveshaft and wishbone are fouling- help!
Discussion
Hey guys-fitted the rear suspension and driveshafts etc last night and I noticed once it was together that the driveshafts foul the suspension.. Took it all apart and managed to moved the only adjuster on the wishbone in to give more clearance and it still hits...
The other side is close but this side is worse.
Can anyone post any pics of theirs? Any ideas? I'll post a photo up later so you can see...
Cheers
The other side is close but this side is worse.
Can anyone post any pics of theirs? Any ideas? I'll post a photo up later so you can see...
Cheers
Didn't you take photos of it before you took it apart?
Sounds pretty radical e.g. A frames on wrong side or upside-down?
See:
http://www.streaky-bacon.co.uk/Wedge/A-frame_640.j...
And from the "New Testament" of the Bible - the Parts Catalogue....

Sounds pretty radical e.g. A frames on wrong side or upside-down?
See:
http://www.streaky-bacon.co.uk/Wedge/A-frame_640.j...
And from the "New Testament" of the Bible - the Parts Catalogue....
Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 2nd October 08:50
Hi adam,
yeah i did take loads of pics which is whats odd about it...its possible that the left and right side wishbones are on the opposite side to what they were but they fit fine all except for this fouling.
Here is the offending side...

Here is the drivers side

yeah i did take loads of pics which is whats odd about it...its possible that the left and right side wishbones are on the opposite side to what they were but they fit fine all except for this fouling.
Here is the offending side...

Here is the drivers side

Edited by matt-man on Wednesday 2nd October 11:10
I just noticed there are a lot of number 8 washers in the diagram. It refers to the part number.
I think you may have to trim the bottom shock absorber bush to be flush on one end, and add a washer on the hub end, to move it slightly away from the driveshaft. You only need a couple of mm.
I think you may have to trim the bottom shock absorber bush to be flush on one end, and add a washer on the hub end, to move it slightly away from the driveshaft. You only need a couple of mm.
Yeah but - presumably if you get air over a humpback bridge or the like, the wheels will still be rotating, and you'll wear a groove in the cup of the shock absorber.
When my back end is jacked up (tie rod still connected) then it doesn't happen. Maybe the tie rod stops it dropping quite as far?
When my back end is jacked up (tie rod still connected) then it doesn't happen. Maybe the tie rod stops it dropping quite as far?
Thanks for all the comments guys...think I have managed to sort it.
I took the shock back out and the new bushes I put in are obviously slightly too wise and protrude over the edge so I took them out and shaved a bit off so they still meet in the middle but only just touch the sides of the bush holder. Also shaved the walls down to thin the gap needed. Then I grinded the centre sleeve down spits the same width (it was slightly wider) to ensure I have enough room to get a thick washer in. It was really tight but got it in and looks to now clear it, but it is tight...don't like the design at all but now happy it doesn't foul. Need to touch up my scratched parts now
I took the shock back out and the new bushes I put in are obviously slightly too wise and protrude over the edge so I took them out and shaved a bit off so they still meet in the middle but only just touch the sides of the bush holder. Also shaved the walls down to thin the gap needed. Then I grinded the centre sleeve down spits the same width (it was slightly wider) to ensure I have enough room to get a thick washer in. It was really tight but got it in and looks to now clear it, but it is tight...don't like the design at all but now happy it doesn't foul. Need to touch up my scratched parts now

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