So this commuting lark.
Discussion
Not as simple as I thought it would be, so after opinions please before I go crazy. There's a lot out there already but I hope someone will be kind on me so I don't waste time or money 
No FAQs in this forum unfortunately and we all know the search is like most men looking in the fridge.
I recently moved office and it seemed a good time to take up cycling again. My bike is 14 years old (hardtail about £500 then) and probably hasn't moved for seven, but I gave it a good oiling and swapped the cables for some new ones so it seems to go ok. Except:
a) My arse hurts, so much I struggled to sit down earlier. Now I'm probably 20kg heavier than when I first had the bike (I'm a lardy unfit 93 now) so is it my weight and the lack of cycling or shall I give in and buy a new saddle? (Charge spoon sounds good, if I can get hold of one). It feels like someone has rubbed sandpaper between my buttocks.
b) My lights have packed up. My ride is a combination of cyclepath & old railway with road crossings so I'm thinking flashing rear (70 lumens?), flashing front (no idea on power) and a directional helmet light, or a bar mounted 300 lumenish job with a hood. Light on the back of the helmet also (a fibre flare?) I want to see but not blind.
c) I'm going to freeze soon I think. Iwarm up during the ride sweat like a pig but I'm cold at first. Other riders seem to wear long shorts and and a base layer - I'm thinking something like this? Then a light waterproof jacket and shorts? I have a warm shower at both ends so don't mind getting a little wet. Shorts seem expensive, also I'm not sure if I need padding regarding the seat situation. I've not even contemplated jackets yet - will my everyday waterproof cut it? However as I used to commute by motorbike I'm aware exactly how important the right kit is.
d) After only 22 miles, my new tyre already has a puncture. Is it worth paying the extra for a puncture resistant tyre? E.g. these. I've always hated getting tyres off so this appeals to me.
Any other thoughts appreciated - feel free to ask questions of your own because I expect someone will need to know at some point. A colleague warned me this could be addictive...
No FAQs in this forum unfortunately and we all know the search is like most men looking in the fridge.I recently moved office and it seemed a good time to take up cycling again. My bike is 14 years old (hardtail about £500 then) and probably hasn't moved for seven, but I gave it a good oiling and swapped the cables for some new ones so it seems to go ok. Except:
a) My arse hurts, so much I struggled to sit down earlier. Now I'm probably 20kg heavier than when I first had the bike (I'm a lardy unfit 93 now) so is it my weight and the lack of cycling or shall I give in and buy a new saddle? (Charge spoon sounds good, if I can get hold of one). It feels like someone has rubbed sandpaper between my buttocks.
b) My lights have packed up. My ride is a combination of cyclepath & old railway with road crossings so I'm thinking flashing rear (70 lumens?), flashing front (no idea on power) and a directional helmet light, or a bar mounted 300 lumenish job with a hood. Light on the back of the helmet also (a fibre flare?) I want to see but not blind.
c) I'm going to freeze soon I think. I
d) After only 22 miles, my new tyre already has a puncture. Is it worth paying the extra for a puncture resistant tyre? E.g. these. I've always hated getting tyres off so this appeals to me.
Any other thoughts appreciated - feel free to ask questions of your own because I expect someone will need to know at some point. A colleague warned me this could be addictive...
a) get to a decent bike shop. They have test saddles nowadays. I'm a Fizik person, my lads a Selle Italia (well he puts up with it coz its light).
b) any cheap 1000lumen jobbie from deal extreme like a Magicshine MJ 808 and then a Cateye TL610 on the back. Maybe an extra rear light on you helmet or bag.
c) layers, variations is my method. Today it was 3/4 baggies, 3/4 top and a windcheater jacket (all Endura, good price, good quality). In the next few weeks I'll be breaking out the wicking base layer, optional leg/arm warmers, thermal mid layer then my MT500 jacket. Jacket must be well vented or you'll get drenched. Merino base layers are great if you're not allergic.
d) those tyres weigh a tonne, bought them, used them, gave them away. Look for dura/gator type tyres or maybe switch to tubeless. Wifey was running smartguards, I went tubeless. She still had punctures, I got 40 thorns I in tyre and never stopped. Look for Stans No Tubes conversion.
b) any cheap 1000lumen jobbie from deal extreme like a Magicshine MJ 808 and then a Cateye TL610 on the back. Maybe an extra rear light on you helmet or bag.
c) layers, variations is my method. Today it was 3/4 baggies, 3/4 top and a windcheater jacket (all Endura, good price, good quality). In the next few weeks I'll be breaking out the wicking base layer, optional leg/arm warmers, thermal mid layer then my MT500 jacket. Jacket must be well vented or you'll get drenched. Merino base layers are great if you're not allergic.
d) those tyres weigh a tonne, bought them, used them, gave them away. Look for dura/gator type tyres or maybe switch to tubeless. Wifey was running smartguards, I went tubeless. She still had punctures, I got 40 thorns I in tyre and never stopped. Look for Stans No Tubes conversion.
We really need some stickys in this forum, there's some great info on here but its hard to find.
A - yep your ass is going to hurt like hell while you get the muscles back. Are you wearing padded shorts?
Going to second the post reccomending endura, I may own far too much of their stuff already.
If you're wearing baggies (and I'm guessing you are if you're on your MTB) then there are padded liner shorts, I've got a couple of the endura ones and they are great (and at £15 a bargain). Endura shorts are great too (personally prefer the singletrack2 3/4s). PS also check out the Flanders bundle planet x has at the moment for some other autumn kit.
If you buy cheap crap you may end up buying twice. I spent a lot trying to save money and gave up in the end, decent kit is just not comparable, it makes your life so much easier. That's not to say there aren't bargains to be had :-)
B - I'm struggling to find full length fibre flares, want one as a backup light for my road bike.
Lots of detail in this thread on lighting with some example pics etc- there is at least one longer very good thread on pH, worth having a scout around the forum.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=132...
C - we did a couple of winter gear threads recently with some very good advice in them. Again worth a scout through the last month or so of topics.
Base layers are your friend, breathable is everything. Forget staying dry (you won't) but staying warm is what counts. PS overshoes! They are essential when it tips it down. Mudguards help a lot otherwise you're being soaked in spray from the road too.
D - your commute sounds like big chunky offroad tyres are overkill. Continental teavelcontacts are f
king amazing tyres. Happy to cope with some light off road and a lot faster and easier on road (damn close to being as good as full slicks) and I've never had a puncture on them. They review very well.Good luck, I got hooked and its a slippery slope :-)
Edited by TheLemming on Wednesday 9th October 00:31
go with the schwalbes. i have used them daily for over 2 years now and not had one puncture. the front one is beyond worn out but i've still not had a problem.
from a clothing perspective i think everyone is different, and every commute is different. how long is yours, is there a lot of start stop, are there any hills etc. You will find out what is right for you by trial and error. All I would say is don't get sucked in to spending loads on clothes as it is really not necessary! The hardest thing is staying dry inside and out if you get caught in a downpour, but if you have a shower both sides then it doesn't matter too much as long as you have a change of clothes for the journey home!
keep the commuting up through the winter and you will lose that 20kg by March, if not sooner!
on the light front i think you are spot on. have a couple of lights on the rear, that way if the batteries pack up on one you always have another flashing away.
the other thing i would recommend is a high viz vest to go on top of anything else you might be wearing
from a clothing perspective i think everyone is different, and every commute is different. how long is yours, is there a lot of start stop, are there any hills etc. You will find out what is right for you by trial and error. All I would say is don't get sucked in to spending loads on clothes as it is really not necessary! The hardest thing is staying dry inside and out if you get caught in a downpour, but if you have a shower both sides then it doesn't matter too much as long as you have a change of clothes for the journey home!
keep the commuting up through the winter and you will lose that 20kg by March, if not sooner!
on the light front i think you are spot on. have a couple of lights on the rear, that way if the batteries pack up on one you always have another flashing away.
the other thing i would recommend is a high viz vest to go on top of anything else you might be wearing
strudel said:
Not as simple as I thought it would be, so after opinions please before I go crazy. There's a lot out there already but I hope someone will be kind on me so I don't waste time or money No FAQs in this forum unfortunately and we all know the search is like most men looking in the fridge.
I recently moved office and it seemed a good time to take up cycling again. My bike is 14 years old (hardtail about £500 then) and probably hasn't moved for seven, but I gave it a good oiling and swapped the cables for some new ones so it seems to go ok. Except:
a) My arse hurts, so much I struggled to sit down earlier. Now I'm probably 20kg heavier than when I first had the bike (I'm a lardy unfit 93 now) so is it my weight and the lack of cycling or shall I give in and buy a new saddle? (Charge spoon sounds good, if I can get hold of one). It feels like someone has rubbed sandpaper between my buttocks.
b) My lights have packed up. My ride is a combination of cyclepath & old railway with road crossings so I'm thinking flashing rear (70 lumens?), flashing front (no idea on power) and a directional helmet light, or a bar mounted 300 lumenish job with a hood. Light on the back of the helmet also (a fibre flare?) I want to see but not blind.
c) I'm going to freeze soon I think. Iwarm up during the ride sweat like a pig but I'm cold at first. Other riders seem to wear long shorts and and a base layer - I'm thinking something like this? Then a light waterproof jacket and shorts? I have a warm shower at both ends so don't mind getting a little wet. Shorts seem expensive, also I'm not sure if I need padding regarding the seat situation. I've not even contemplated jackets yet - will my everyday waterproof cut it? However as I used to commute by motorbike I'm aware exactly how important the right kit is.
d) After only 22 miles, my new tyre already has a puncture. Is it worth paying the extra for a puncture resistant tyre? E.g. these. I've always hated getting tyres off so this appeals to me.
Any other thoughts appreciated - feel free to ask questions of your own because I expect someone will need to know at some point. A colleague warned me this could be addictive...
Hi mate, stick at it, you will get fitter and easier!!! Its tough at first, esp this time of year when it gets colder and darker No FAQs in this forum unfortunately and we all know the search is like most men looking in the fridge.I recently moved office and it seemed a good time to take up cycling again. My bike is 14 years old (hardtail about £500 then) and probably hasn't moved for seven, but I gave it a good oiling and swapped the cables for some new ones so it seems to go ok. Except:
a) My arse hurts, so much I struggled to sit down earlier. Now I'm probably 20kg heavier than when I first had the bike (I'm a lardy unfit 93 now) so is it my weight and the lack of cycling or shall I give in and buy a new saddle? (Charge spoon sounds good, if I can get hold of one). It feels like someone has rubbed sandpaper between my buttocks.
b) My lights have packed up. My ride is a combination of cyclepath & old railway with road crossings so I'm thinking flashing rear (70 lumens?), flashing front (no idea on power) and a directional helmet light, or a bar mounted 300 lumenish job with a hood. Light on the back of the helmet also (a fibre flare?) I want to see but not blind.
c) I'm going to freeze soon I think. I
d) After only 22 miles, my new tyre already has a puncture. Is it worth paying the extra for a puncture resistant tyre? E.g. these. I've always hated getting tyres off so this appeals to me.
Any other thoughts appreciated - feel free to ask questions of your own because I expect someone will need to know at some point. A colleague warned me this could be addictive...
Firstly wear a decent set of cycle shorts/tights (you can wear baggies or football shorts on top) if you are having pain there.
Also look at saddle position, I never really get saddle sore, but I got a new bike with a Brooks saddle and I was in fing agony!! Tilting it back a couple of degrees helped push the weight on my sitbones and is now comfy, so try titling front or back
A Charge Spoon is a great starting point, but defo wear padded shorts, seriously!! I wear my cheap £7 Aldi ones when comuteing and they are great, but usually cheap shorts are crap!!
There are various threads running on lights, it all depends on budget and how "dark" your route is, I run one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-XM-L-XML-T6-LED-180... and 2 x rear lights and a flashing Cateye on the front. Make sure you have at least 2 x lights each end in case one fails (as you found out)
The fitter you get I find the warmer I get, as you can push you body harder to generate more heat, having said that I dont really feel the cold
That base layer looks good
With tyres, spend as much as you can and do your research, punctures are a PITA and will slow you down, by buying decent puncture resistant one you can go 1000's of miles without a puncture. The linked tyres look OK, but if any of your route is tarmac they will slow you down, but any off road sections will get a lot more muddy once winter drags on. So I guess you need to balance off road grip with on road resistance!
WRT to clothing, I think a lot will depend on how sweaty you are.
I sweat like a pig on longer rides, so it made sense to buying wicking tops. When I first started 15 years ago I was thinner and so bought cycling fit tops with elasticated waistbands. Now I'm about 2 stone heavier so buy anything that's wicking and on sale.
I currently ride in Rgby tops, football shirts and a lot of cheapo Karrimor stuff when it's on sale at SportsDirect.
Padded shorts are worth paying for - and you'll need several pairs to get you through the week (depending on the distance you ride and your personal hygiene). Though I do wear surf shorts over the top as I'm pretty sure othyer road users don't want to watch my fat arse wobbling about.
If you're planning on riding through the winter, then you'll need to waterproof your feet somehow. That could be cyling specific winter boots (if you use cleats), hiking boots (if you're on toe straps) or overshoes and your existing summer shoes. SOme people don't bother, but I do get cold hands and feet so do pay attention to those.
As for jackets, I've gone through loads to find something good. I used to just buy cheap hiking jackets, but they're a bit boil in the bag. Then I bought a cycling specific Gill one - which was OK until the proofing went. I then get a Night Vision one as part of the ride to work scheme as it counts as 'safety equipment' This is probably the best jacket for my commute as it has loads of vents to unzip to stop you sweating like mad and, obviously, is much more visible in stty weather.
I sweat like a pig on longer rides, so it made sense to buying wicking tops. When I first started 15 years ago I was thinner and so bought cycling fit tops with elasticated waistbands. Now I'm about 2 stone heavier so buy anything that's wicking and on sale.
I currently ride in Rgby tops, football shirts and a lot of cheapo Karrimor stuff when it's on sale at SportsDirect.
Padded shorts are worth paying for - and you'll need several pairs to get you through the week (depending on the distance you ride and your personal hygiene). Though I do wear surf shorts over the top as I'm pretty sure othyer road users don't want to watch my fat arse wobbling about.
If you're planning on riding through the winter, then you'll need to waterproof your feet somehow. That could be cyling specific winter boots (if you use cleats), hiking boots (if you're on toe straps) or overshoes and your existing summer shoes. SOme people don't bother, but I do get cold hands and feet so do pay attention to those.
As for jackets, I've gone through loads to find something good. I used to just buy cheap hiking jackets, but they're a bit boil in the bag. Then I bought a cycling specific Gill one - which was OK until the proofing went. I then get a Night Vision one as part of the ride to work scheme as it counts as 'safety equipment' This is probably the best jacket for my commute as it has loads of vents to unzip to stop you sweating like mad and, obviously, is much more visible in s
tty weather.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
This thread might be worth a read for you too :-)
This thread might be worth a read for you too :-)
Hi there,
my advice as i'm also a newbie is to get your bike given the once over at your local indy shop - they'll make sure it's running nicely. Get onto wiggle and buy the cheapest DHB padded shorts and short sleeve top plus a base layer/compression top. You can then invest in a wind proof jacket - I bought a northwave which is great but cost £50...with regards to lights - the BBB 600 lumen is ace and lights up the road well. i have a cateye triple for the back...then get the strava app to monitor your progress.
...no doubt if you're like me, you'll absolutely love it and get mega fit and then go and buy a carbon road bike and take part in massive sportives with your mates at the weekend!!!
my advice as i'm also a newbie is to get your bike given the once over at your local indy shop - they'll make sure it's running nicely. Get onto wiggle and buy the cheapest DHB padded shorts and short sleeve top plus a base layer/compression top. You can then invest in a wind proof jacket - I bought a northwave which is great but cost £50...with regards to lights - the BBB 600 lumen is ace and lights up the road well. i have a cateye triple for the back...then get the strava app to monitor your progress.
...no doubt if you're like me, you'll absolutely love it and get mega fit and then go and buy a carbon road bike and take part in massive sportives with your mates at the weekend!!!
TheLemming said:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
This thread might be worth a read for you too :-)
Thank you. This thread might be worth a read for you too :-)
For a hard tail I was going to suggest a decent thudbuster as suggested on my thread. I use a cross country bike with heavier gears and slick tyres because the roads are terrible in this part of the world.
If you're using disc brakes I can not recommend one of these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oxford-Screamer-Motorcyc...
...highly enough. Mine has saved my bike at least half a dozen times.
Decent lights...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-LED-Bike-Light-Bicy...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moon-Lunar-Rear-Bike-Cyc...
...hi-viz...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moon-Lunar-Rear-Bike-Cyc...
...and wear a helmet. When I was knocked off earlier this year it literally saved my life.
Take your time with it and enjoy the ride. Sights, sounds, smells and experiences you simply wouldn't have time to appreciate sat in a tin box.
My one top tip would be remember whatever annoys you a little in a car will be the most irritating thing in the world on a bike. Try not to turn into a Magnatom or a Cycling Mickey but if you feel you are at risk by all means wear a camera...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZU5zD5Dt83E
...if you do make sure you get the best camera you can afford.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Road-Hawk-720p-Wide-Angl...
I wouldn't worry about your weight either. I've only lost a few pounds since cycling to work but my body fat percentage is less than 10%.
louiebaby said:
Batfink said:
Get some mudguards. Winters coming and you will stay significantly dryer.
This. Don't be a slave to fashion. They look st, but they stop you getting covered in st.Other than that, tyres at max recommended pressure, padded shorts, decent lights and get on with it.
t?Apart from the very shiniest and exotic road bikes, most bicycles look more normal and 'finished' with mudguards.
oyster said:
louiebaby said:
Batfink said:
Get some mudguards. Winters coming and you will stay significantly dryer.
This. Don't be a slave to fashion. They look st, but they stop you getting covered in st.Other than that, tyres at max recommended pressure, padded shorts, decent lights and get on with it.
t?Apart from the very shiniest and exotic road bikes, most bicycles look more normal and 'finished' with mudguards.
t too.I'd much rather ride mine without as it makes the bike look sleeker and less old fashioned.
But then I'd much, much rather have dry feet and no black stripe up my back.
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