996.2 GT3 viewing guide
Discussion
I've tried to compile all the GT3 specific details you should check when viewing a car to purchase. It's not an exhaustive model history or options list but some straightforward checks anyone could do when looking at a car. A lot of this might be obvious to some people but if you're new to 911's it's not!
The list also assumes you're getting a professional inspection and covering all the basics that would be needed when buying any vehicle (HPI, panel gaps, check history and ownership docs etc etc).
Anything obvious I've missed or got wrong?
Pull up front carpet under bonnet and footwells – check repairs or overspray
Tape visible on B pillars
VIN – 13th number from left = 9 = GT3 (if 0 not GT3)
Oil pressure hot 1.5bar at idle, 5bar 2500-5000rpm
Clubsport – 6 point Schroth original belts, FIA 5 year expiry
Clubsport – elec cut off (not connected unless fitting kit purchased), fire extinguisher, seats are nomex Recaros with embroided headrests, M0003 option code.
Clubsport - 1/2 cage bolted to the floor (should be a welded-in plate with 3 captive bolts by the B-pillars & down by the A-pillars in front) & should ideally have the front section too. You can't buy the front section separately.
Tyres – 235/40R18 on the front and 295/30R18 on the rear. N rated or could be Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, Yokohama AD08 (good all rounder) or the AO48 (expensive track rubber).
LSD – reverse with full lock, should not be smooth
Engine and gearbox – noisy from cold until warm
If there is gearbox chatter at idle which disappears when the clutch is depressed, a single-piece flywheel is fitted as per the RS. This will have been done by an owner as the car was delivered with a dual-mass flywheel from the factory.
GT3 logo on door entry guards, rear carpet, handbrake lever and tacho
Standard interior is black with Alcantara headlining
No cost options – air con, CD radio, blk/red/yellow/blue seat belts, sports seats
Options include – cruise control, bi-xenon (litronic) headlights
Leather interior options – black, natural brown, dark grey
Wheels – 18” 10 spoke 8.5 at front, 11 at rear
Brakes – 6 pot, 350mm at front
VIN sticker under bonnet, check against log book. Late cars don't have under bonnet sticker - stopped MY05.
VIN number visible through windscreen
Paint code sticker – left side panel under carpet under bonnet
Should be 3. 2 normal ones and a small one with a square plastic head (no remote). It is actually quite rare for owners to have this these days, but the car came with it
The list also assumes you're getting a professional inspection and covering all the basics that would be needed when buying any vehicle (HPI, panel gaps, check history and ownership docs etc etc).
Anything obvious I've missed or got wrong?
Pull up front carpet under bonnet and footwells – check repairs or overspray
Tape visible on B pillars
VIN – 13th number from left = 9 = GT3 (if 0 not GT3)
Oil pressure hot 1.5bar at idle, 5bar 2500-5000rpm
Clubsport – 6 point Schroth original belts, FIA 5 year expiry
Clubsport – elec cut off (not connected unless fitting kit purchased), fire extinguisher, seats are nomex Recaros with embroided headrests, M0003 option code.
Clubsport - 1/2 cage bolted to the floor (should be a welded-in plate with 3 captive bolts by the B-pillars & down by the A-pillars in front) & should ideally have the front section too. You can't buy the front section separately.
Tyres – 235/40R18 on the front and 295/30R18 on the rear. N rated or could be Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, Yokohama AD08 (good all rounder) or the AO48 (expensive track rubber).
LSD – reverse with full lock, should not be smooth
Engine and gearbox – noisy from cold until warm
If there is gearbox chatter at idle which disappears when the clutch is depressed, a single-piece flywheel is fitted as per the RS. This will have been done by an owner as the car was delivered with a dual-mass flywheel from the factory.
GT3 logo on door entry guards, rear carpet, handbrake lever and tacho
Standard interior is black with Alcantara headlining
No cost options – air con, CD radio, blk/red/yellow/blue seat belts, sports seats
Options include – cruise control, bi-xenon (litronic) headlights
Leather interior options – black, natural brown, dark grey
Wheels – 18” 10 spoke 8.5 at front, 11 at rear
Brakes – 6 pot, 350mm at front
VIN sticker under bonnet, check against log book. Late cars don't have under bonnet sticker - stopped MY05.
VIN number visible through windscreen
Paint code sticker – left side panel under carpet under bonnet
Should be 3. 2 normal ones and a small one with a square plastic head (no remote). It is actually quite rare for owners to have this these days, but the car came with it
Edited by adbett on Friday 11th October 16:25
Edited by adbett on Saturday 12th October 13:57
adbett said:
Clubsport – Sabelt original belts, FIA 5 year expiry
Clubsport – elec cut off, fire extinguisher, seats are velour not leather, ½ cage, 6 pt harness, M0003 option code
Some clubsport details are incorrect:Clubsport – elec cut off, fire extinguisher, seats are velour not leather, ½ cage, 6 pt harness, M0003 option code
Original 6-point belts are Schroth, not Sabelt. Only supplied unfitted for the drivers side from the factory.
Electric under-bonnet cutoff isn't connected to anything unless you buy the £600+ kit to make it live.
Seats are Nomex not velour (are we in the 70's!?). Seats are Recaro with embroidered Porsche crests on the headrest.
Cage is bolted to the floor (should be a welded-in plate with 3 captive bolts by the B-pillars & down by the A-pillars in front) & should ideally have the front section too. You can't buy the front section separately.
If there is gearbox chatter at idle which disappears when the clutch is depressed, a single-piece flywheel is fitted as per the RS. This will have been done by an owner as the car was delivered with a dual-mass flywheel from the factory.
So no one wants to checks the brakes or dampers on a 10 year old car !
strange...
main items which need replacing are
Diff plates
Clutch
Damper rebuilds
alternators
Rads
rear exhaust rot through
rot on sill if SS sill plates have been uses as water gets in and rots the sill.
Brake over haul
Most rubber pipes have had it and perished
Battery is normally f
ked
Tyres N spec, who cares, :-)
none of this has been talked about and that list is 10k+ worth of stuff !!!! and imo every 10 year old car will need most of it doing or you would want invoices for which items have been done so you can see what it will need sooner than later.
strange...
main items which need replacing are
Diff plates
Clutch
Damper rebuilds
alternators
Rads
rear exhaust rot through
rot on sill if SS sill plates have been uses as water gets in and rots the sill.
Brake over haul
Most rubber pipes have had it and perished
Battery is normally f
kedTyres N spec, who cares, :-)
none of this has been talked about and that list is 10k+ worth of stuff !!!! and imo every 10 year old car will need most of it doing or you would want invoices for which items have been done so you can see what it will need sooner than later.
Edited by mrdemon on Friday 11th October 17:42
The list will prove useful to prospective purchasers but I think it would be a good idea to remind people that these cars are about handling and performance primarily:-
It is essential to check what has been done (or not) to the suspension if it is possible to speak to the previous owner. Most original components will be tired and in need of upgrade/replacement and many of the aftermarket "upgrades" are ideal for track use but less than optimal for UK roads. This goes for springs, shocks and all arms/links. If it shakes your teeth out - then it's broken or modified!
The engine should not be mechanically noisy within a few seconds of starting but the rattle will be more prominent when the engine has stood for several days and there is no oil in the cam advance drums. There should not be any oil smoke unless it has been parked on a significant left or right incline. Hydraulic tappets should also quieten quickly. Solid flywheels will transfer gear lash noises to the cockpit.
If at all possible, visually inspect the exhaust manifold to head bolts as these can be costly to remove when they become a rust blob. Also check the silencer boxes for rusty/split seams as they are now becoming very expensive to buy from Porsche.
996 GT3's are getting on a bit now so look for plenty of tangible evidence that it has been looked after in addition to stamps in the service history.
It is essential to check what has been done (or not) to the suspension if it is possible to speak to the previous owner. Most original components will be tired and in need of upgrade/replacement and many of the aftermarket "upgrades" are ideal for track use but less than optimal for UK roads. This goes for springs, shocks and all arms/links. If it shakes your teeth out - then it's broken or modified!
The engine should not be mechanically noisy within a few seconds of starting but the rattle will be more prominent when the engine has stood for several days and there is no oil in the cam advance drums. There should not be any oil smoke unless it has been parked on a significant left or right incline. Hydraulic tappets should also quieten quickly. Solid flywheels will transfer gear lash noises to the cockpit.
If at all possible, visually inspect the exhaust manifold to head bolts as these can be costly to remove when they become a rust blob. Also check the silencer boxes for rusty/split seams as they are now becoming very expensive to buy from Porsche.
996 GT3's are getting on a bit now so look for plenty of tangible evidence that it has been looked after in addition to stamps in the service history.
mrdemon said:
So no one wants to checks the brakes or dampers on a 10 year old car !
strange...
main items which need replacing are
Diff plates
Clutch
Damper rebuilds
alternators
Rads
rear exhaust rot through
rot on sill if SS sill plates have been uses as water gets in and rots the sill.
Brake over haul
Most rubber pipes have had it and perished
Battery is normally f
ked
Tyres N spec, who cares, :-)
none of this has been talked about and that list is 10k+ worth of stuff !!!! and imo every 10 year old car will need most of it doing or you would want invoices for which items have been done so you can see what it will need sooner than later.
I suspect you may have rather missed the point of the OP's post. It appears he's trying to ensure that any potential purchasers know how to spot the genuine article.strange...
main items which need replacing are
Diff plates
Clutch
Damper rebuilds
alternators
Rads
rear exhaust rot through
rot on sill if SS sill plates have been uses as water gets in and rots the sill.
Brake over haul
Most rubber pipes have had it and perished
Battery is normally f
kedTyres N spec, who cares, :-)
none of this has been talked about and that list is 10k+ worth of stuff !!!! and imo every 10 year old car will need most of it doing or you would want invoices for which items have been done so you can see what it will need sooner than later.
As he states in his initial post, he assumes that any car that passes the potential purchasers initial viewing, would then be subjected to a full PPi at a facility familiar with the model.
jeremyc said:
Slippydiff said:
You're thinking of the superior Mk1 Clubsport
I was waiting for this to be raised, and you didn't disappoint Mr. Slippydiff. 

I know you made noises about selling your car over the past twelve months, do you still own it, or has it found a new owner ?adbett said:
Tyres – N rated only
Not necessarily. The Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tyre for the 996 is not N rated and never has been (whereas the Cup+ in 19" on 997 GT3s is). If that is fitted it is not a reason to walk away. Other decent non-N rated tyres that would denote a sensible owner are the Yokohama AD08 (good all rounder) or the AO48 (expensive track rubber).Tyre size is worth a mention too. Should be 235/40R18 on the front and 295/30R18 on the rear. The rear size is common to a 996 turbo or C4S (which run a 225 front) and the front to only the 996 GT2 (which uses a 315 rear). The mk1 uses 225 fronts and 285 rears.
adbett said:
2 keys present
Should be 3. 2 normal ones and a small one with a square plastic head (no remote). It is actually quite rare for owners to have this these days, but the car came with it.Edited by DiscoColin on Friday 11th October 19:08
yes, i'm assuming mechanicals will be covered by a professional inspection
but knowing the bigger items that will need attention after 10 years is good, you can check in the history and ask the owner directly about them
completely agree about tracking down former owners, i've managed to do that for a couple of cars so far before I've even viewed them!
but knowing the bigger items that will need attention after 10 years is good, you can check in the history and ask the owner directly about them
completely agree about tracking down former owners, i've managed to do that for a couple of cars so far before I've even viewed them!
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff




