chassis refurb colour
Discussion
I'm taking the body off my griff 500 to restore the chassis and replace the bushes etc etc.....
The last griff I restored I did the chassis in black powder coat for my personal preference. Thing is I will be selling this griff when its done. (To fund many other projects on the go). So question is what colour would people prefer, the original grey coating , or go for the black which does look a lot better in my opinion. ....
The last griff I restored I did the chassis in black powder coat for my personal preference. Thing is I will be selling this griff when its done. (To fund many other projects on the go). So question is what colour would people prefer, the original grey coating , or go for the black which does look a lot better in my opinion. ....
THREEFISHORANGE said:
I'm taking the body off my griff 500 to restore the chassis and replace the bushes etc etc.....
The last griff I restored I did the chassis in black powder coat for my personal preference. Thing is I will be selling this griff when its done. (To fund many other projects on the go). So question is what colour would people prefer, the original grey coating , or go for the black which does look a lot better in my opinion. ....
My pre-cat 430 is silver, it looks very nice to me. Regards, PeteThe last griff I restored I did the chassis in black powder coat for my personal preference. Thing is I will be selling this griff when its done. (To fund many other projects on the go). So question is what colour would people prefer, the original grey coating , or go for the black which does look a lot better in my opinion. ....
THREEFISHORANGE said:
I'm taking the body off my griff 500 to restore the chassis and replace the bushes etc etc.....
The last griff I restored I did the chassis in black powder coat for my personal preference. Thing is I will be selling this griff when its done. (To fund many other projects on the go). So question is what colour would people prefer, the original grey coating , or go for the black which does look a lot better in my opinion. ....
If you are selling it, keep it the original colour IMHO.The last griff I restored I did the chassis in black powder coat for my personal preference. Thing is I will be selling this griff when its done. (To fund many other projects on the go). So question is what colour would people prefer, the original grey coating , or go for the black which does look a lot better in my opinion. ....
Given the choice I would definitely not powder coat the chassis again. Apparently if the structure moves in any way powder coating tends to work its way off and is almost impossible to touch up to look decent. Bits that dont move at all are much more suited to powder coating. A TVR chassis twists and moves considerably.
A local restorer who sorts out RR, Bentley, Morgans etc. prefers to use ordinary household oil based paint on his chassis's, very easy to repair the odd scrape etc.
As a test, Having tried a specialist chassis paint on the offside side of the front suspension and Aldi special household paint on the near side, guess which is looking better after 3 years?
A local restorer who sorts out RR, Bentley, Morgans etc. prefers to use ordinary household oil based paint on his chassis's, very easy to repair the odd scrape etc.
As a test, Having tried a specialist chassis paint on the offside side of the front suspension and Aldi special household paint on the near side, guess which is looking better after 3 years?
Funny you should say that. About 20yrs ago i built a Marlin kit car. The recomendation from the manufacturer for the chassis was a coat of zinc primer and then a few coats of Dulux exterior gloss. Kept the car 10yrs and chassis was great. Bet its still going now. Its also good for stone chips as remains slightly soft.
Not saying its the thing to use these days but it definately stands up to a fair bit of wear and tear.
Not saying its the thing to use these days but it definately stands up to a fair bit of wear and tear.
Loubaruch said:
Given the choice I would definitely not powder coat the chassis again.
Zinc primer 4 coats alternating red/grey to ensure excellent coverage.Final coat machine grade enamel, which is cheap to buy and very similar to standard exterior grade gloss, and finally clear laquer to help stop stone chips etc.
Paint it in a bright colour, it makes easy to inspect for any stone damage etc. Also easy to touch up and repair.
Edited by TJC46 on Wednesday 23 October 21:00
TJC46 said:
Paint it in a bright colour, it makes easy to inspect for any stone damage etc. Also easy to touch up and repair.
Will be starting the body off rebuild of my Griff soon. I was not doing the work to sell so I am coming from a different direction maybe.Edited by TJC46 on Wednesday 23 October 21:00
Love it or hate it and this is the subject of a lot of discussion elsewhere, I am more or less convinced to galvanise the chassis and then I plan to powder coat it in a bright blue, for exactly the reason given. The current chassis colour in light grey makes it very difficult to spot anything wrong, particularly once it gets some grime on it.
I wouldn't powder coat unless I had a good base, such as galv, hot zinc spray or a good zinc based primer. Why would I use the same method as TVR, which now seems to be the subject of so much debate?
Pete Mac said:
Will be starting the body off rebuild of my Griff soon. I was not doing the work to sell so I am coming from a different direction maybe.
Love it or hate it and this is the subject of a lot of discussion elsewhere, I am more or less convinced to galvanise the chassis and then I plan to powder coat it in a bright blue, for exactly the reason given. The current chassis colour in light grey makes it very difficult to spot anything wrong, particularly once it gets some grime on it.
I wouldn't powder coat unless I had a good base, such as galv, hot zinc spray or a good zinc based primer. Why would I use the same method as TVR, which now seems to be the subject of so much debate?
I would not advocate galvanising your chassis, a lot of heat is used (dipped ito liquid metal zinc bath at 400+C), distortion could ocurr! Go for high quality hot zinc spray, then a good quality etch primer, then a good quality colour coat. It is important that you do not leave the zinc coated chassis in a damp environment, get it primed ASAP. The reason being that zinc will produce white surface 'salts' that will inhibit the adhesion of the paint. We use hot zinc spray on some of our vehicle fabrications, it is good, but needs to be treated correctly. Also note that yo uwill get a superior surface finish with hot zinc spray as opposed to galvanising!Love it or hate it and this is the subject of a lot of discussion elsewhere, I am more or less convinced to galvanise the chassis and then I plan to powder coat it in a bright blue, for exactly the reason given. The current chassis colour in light grey makes it very difficult to spot anything wrong, particularly once it gets some grime on it.
I wouldn't powder coat unless I had a good base, such as galv, hot zinc spray or a good zinc based primer. Why would I use the same method as TVR, which now seems to be the subject of so much debate?
PeteGriff said:
I would not advocate galvanising your chassis, a lot of heat is used (dipped ito liquid metal zinc bath at 400+C), distortion could ocurr! Go for high quality hot zinc spray, then a good quality etch primer, then a good quality colour coat. It is important that you do not leave the zinc coated chassis in a damp environment, get it primed ASAP. The reason being that zinc will produce white surface 'salts' that will inhibit the adhesion of the paint. We use hot zinc spray on some of our vehicle fabrications, it is good, but needs to be treated correctly. Also note that yo uwill get a superior surface finish with hot zinc spray as opposed to galvanising!
As I said, the subject of much debate - see following threadhttp://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'm not there yet and may still consider hot zinc spraying.
Anyway don't want to start another thread here, I vote for a bright chassis colour, partly 'cos it looks good but especially because it is easier to spot any problem areas than with the orginal greyish/white, which I think looks naff.
I don't think we are at a point where chassis colour will affect the sale price.
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