350i Wedge keeps cutting out under load...?
Discussion
Probably something very simple but could equally be something complicated to find.
There's a bullet connector in a white/black wire from the ignition amplifier, usually hiding under the airflow meter. If it gets a bit cruddy it can cause intermittent connection of the trigger signal from the amp. to the fuel ECU.
You could be looking at a dodgy fuel pump relay, ignition supply relay, ignition switch itself...or any of several other issues. Not much help I know, but it's always difficult to diagnose intermittent faults, especially by remote control.
There's a bullet connector in a white/black wire from the ignition amplifier, usually hiding under the airflow meter. If it gets a bit cruddy it can cause intermittent connection of the trigger signal from the amp. to the fuel ECU.
You could be looking at a dodgy fuel pump relay, ignition supply relay, ignition switch itself...or any of several other issues. Not much help I know, but it's always difficult to diagnose intermittent faults, especially by remote control.
cheers, I have replaced the bullet connector, one of the wires had a nick in it and I have replaced it with two spade connectors then rapped with insulation tape. I've done loads so far, replaced the swirl pot, put in a new fuel filter in, added a new inline filter from RT but I am going to remove that this week, I thought it was a good idea at the time, but there is nothing inside it, so don't see the purpose in it.
Its really frustrating.....
Its really frustrating.....
Hi Stewart, yes I would start by changing the ignition amplifier, the coil might be suspect too. But change the amp first.
The pre-filter shouldn't have anything in it (apart from petrol!) but the point is that if you do get any flakes of rust or other crud in the tanks, it saves the pump from chewing on them the damage this causes. So if it's empty that's a good thing. I would keep it, myself.
The pre-filter shouldn't have anything in it (apart from petrol!) but the point is that if you do get any flakes of rust or other crud in the tanks, it saves the pump from chewing on them the damage this causes. So if it's empty that's a good thing. I would keep it, myself.
sounds like amp is a possibility. i have just been through the whole car replacing bits and the amp was it. my mechanic took out one of the plugs reattached to the lead and turned the car over. when placed against something metal the spark that resulted was a dull yellow which was a sure sign that there wasnt enough oomph getting to the plug. have a go.
also check the connectors to it. one of mine was in a bad way which didnt help.
Stu
also check the connectors to it. one of mine was in a bad way which didnt help.
Stu
Jack Valiant said:
Also when changing the amplifier if you have the attached type to the dizzy, use proper heat sync compound paste (get it from Maplins) so it lasts fella
Chris
You can get away with using a thin smear of Coppaslip in an emergency; it dries out with heat/ time faster than the proper silicon compound but it's better than nothing. Copper is, after all, quite a good conductor of heat Chris
Used it on the Athlon CPU in my PC, it worked a tr
thanks guys I have changed the coil, the inline filter I bought from RT - when I said empty, there is no mesh in it at all, hence why I am confused how it even helps...anyway I am going to remove it at the weekend and fit a new fuel pipe from the swirl pot to the pump. I have been doing some digging online about the ignition amp, seems to be plenty upgrades available. I will purchase a new one anyway and try it out thanks....this is a long journey of elimination....
Adam, she's as good if not better when you sold it to me all those years ago 14yrs I think now.....she's had new tyres all round, new hood, wheels powder coated, shiny nuts, new exhaust at rear, new rear wheel bearings, repainted underside without affecting the chassis nylon coating...I am desperate to get her back on the road to take some pics and will show her in her glory.....plus my Kids love it better than the Griff....!!
Adam, she's as good if not better when you sold it to me all those years ago 14yrs I think now.....she's had new tyres all round, new hood, wheels powder coated, shiny nuts, new exhaust at rear, new rear wheel bearings, repainted underside without affecting the chassis nylon coating...I am desperate to get her back on the road to take some pics and will show her in her glory.....plus my Kids love it better than the Griff....!!
smcquill said:
Adam, she's as good if not better when you sold it to me all those years ago 14yrs I think now.....she's had new tyres all round, new hood, wheels powder coated, shiny nuts, new exhaust at rear, new rear wheel bearings, repainted underside without affecting the chassis nylon coating...I am desperate to get her back on the road to take some pics and will show her in her glory.....plus my Kids love it better than the Griff....!!
September 12th 1998. But who's counting?It's a special 350 you have there...
Sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me but a methodical process is required.
Good luck.
I had a very similar problem with my 350 a couple of years ago, turned out to be the fuse holder for the coil circuit. It wasn't tight enough to the fuse, and when it got hot it arced out and cut power to the LT side of the coil.
Running a fused supply to the coil stopped the cutting out, it was then a matter of tracing it back to the faulty bit.
Running a fused supply to the coil stopped the cutting out, it was then a matter of tracing it back to the faulty bit.
Yeah sounds like ignition then, a confirmation would be to take off a plug lead and leave the end laying on a rocker cover, when the spark dies it will be pretty obvious.
Good idea to check the voltages on the coil primary too and if it's dying there then trace back as suggested above.
Good idea to check the voltages on the coil primary too and if it's dying there then trace back as suggested above.
smcquill said:
Guys has anyone experienced this problem before, whether I am driving or fast idle my wedge cuts out, just kills the engine. It will start again, but once the revs increase it cuts out again.....?
any ideas.....?
Is this fast idle with the car stationery? Get the engine warm (slower idle) and bounce each corner of the car to try and shake any loose connections (I had a poor connection on the cable to the power resistors on the inner wing, used to lose 4 cylinders on bumpy roads, that was fun).any ideas.....?
With the engine warm and the car stationary, if you increase the idle speed does it then cut out?
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