Oil
Author
Discussion

matt-man

Original Poster:

2,667 posts

249 months

Monday 21st October 2013
quotequote all
Hi all,

Changing all the fluids....so what do we think?

Diff?
Gbox?

Wedg1e

27,038 posts

295 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
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If it has an LSD, make sure you use LSD-friendly oil smile

Im standing well back to watch the arguments over gearbox oil; I use ATF as recommended but I know a few don't...

Engine oil: 20W/50. None of this 10W/40 silliness, the RV8 wasn't designed to run with it, it needs treacle to fill the gaps and pump the cam followers up biggrin

carob

3,585 posts

241 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
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Convert

3,757 posts

248 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
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Matt, Rob is bang on with the Valvoline 20/50.

As Ian says you need an LSD spec oil if you've got a powerlock diff (I use one by Motul, a 90PA)

The gearbox is difficult though, some use ATF, some use Mobil1 and Molyslip, some use Castrol SMX-S and I have heard good things about Difflock evolution 1.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
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Matt, yes oil is a very good idea - never leave the garage without any!

For me the V8 gets Castrol classic 20W/50, the diff gets Castrol LSD oil, and the gearbox gets Moly/Mobil 0W40.

I'm a definite born again convert on the gearbox oil - halleluliah! Let battle commence... ;^)

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
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Valvoline VR1 is a good oil with the essential zinc needed to keep your cam in good shape, but it is just a mineral - not even a semi synthetic.

For an extra £6 you can jump up two levels to the excellent fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 - 15w/60 from "Classic Oils".

http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-349/Products-b...

This is a very high quality oil with all the right additives and 15w/60 makes it absolutely perfect for the RV8.

Being a fully synthetic it will be more temperature stable and will last a lot longer before the molecules get mangled, the result is you can safely extend your change intervals while still providing your engine with better protection than a mineral oil.

At £31.00 for such a quality fully synthetic oil, in my opinion Penrite HPR15 15w/60 represents the best value RV8 oil available by a good margin.

Penrite are a well respected Australian company who've been supplying quality lubricants for over 80 years.

I've been using their oils since the early nineties when they first entered the UK classic car lubrication market, we used it with great success in Austin Healeys involved in classic racing, these cars ran very hot and were extremely hard on their engine oil.

The Penrite oils we used were (and still are) the best available for older engine designs, the fact Penrite HPR15 15w/60 is £31.00 for five litres is just a nice bonus, you'd need to pay almost twice that for a equal oil like Millers CFS 15w60.

Bargain!

For ultimate engine protection, use it with an oil filter from here:

http://www.v8filters.co.uk/

ElvisWedgely

2,715 posts

195 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
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What ever engine oil you use, and it's best to use a 20/50 on these engines, adding a 500ml can of STP or Mollyslip oil treatment instantly raises the quality of your oil to the max. If you buy it on the Bay, it should only cost around a fiver.

Tony. TCB.

dixiebabes

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Matt, yes oil is a very good idea - never leave the garage without any!

For me the V8 gets Castrol classic 20W/50, the diff gets Castrol LSD oil, and the gearbox gets Moly/Mobil 0W40.

I'm a definite born again convert on the gearbox oil - halleluliah! Let battle commence... ;^)
Second this on the gearbox its like i had a new box fitted with this combination!!.

Dix

Number 7

4,113 posts

292 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2013
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Motul 90PA in the LSD, Redline MTL in the gearbox and I used to use Motul 300V Competition 15W 50 in the engine until Motul stopped selling it in 4 litre packs. Now I use Fuchs (ex Silkolene) Race Pro R 15W 50. Both the Motul and the Fuchs are rated as the top oils due by the guys at Opie Oils due to their ester formulation. However, they are expensive, but don't breakdown like other oils at high temps (I've seen 130 deg C engine oil temp on a trackday, and had no problems as the oil was rated beyond that point.). If you don't track the car then you wouldn't need anything so sophisticated. Gearbox oils have been done to death, and I've tried engine oil mixed with gearbox oil, Castrol SMX and now I use Redline, which is a proper gear oil and was recommended by the guy who rebuilt my gearbox. The one thing to avoid (other than ATF IMHO) is anything with too high an API GL rating (I think 4 is ok for the LT77) as it can damage the phosphor bronze components.

V8 Fettler

7,019 posts

162 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2013
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
Valvoline VR1 is a good oil with the essential zinc needed to keep your cam in good shape, but it is just a mineral - not even a semi synthetic.

For an extra £6 you can jump up two levels to the excellent fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 - 15w/60 from "Classic Oils".

http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-349/Products-b...

This is a very high quality oil with all the right additives and 15w/60 makes it absolutely perfect for the RV8.

Being a fully synthetic it will be more temperature stable and will last a lot longer before the molecules get mangled, the result is you can safely extend your change intervals while still providing your engine with better protection than a mineral oil.

At £31.00 for such a quality fully synthetic oil, in my opinion Penrite HPR15 15w/60 represents the best value RV8 oil available by a good margin.

Penrite are a well respected Australian company who've been supplying quality lubricants for over 80 years.

I've been using their oils since the early nineties when they first entered the UK classic car lubrication market, we used it with great success in Austin Healeys involved in classic racing, these cars ran very hot and were extremely hard on their engine oil.

The Penrite oils we used were (and still are) the best available for older engine designs, the fact Penrite HPR15 15w/60 is £31.00 for five litres is just a nice bonus, you'd need to pay almost twice that for a equal oil like Millers CFS 15w60.

Bargain!

For ultimate engine protection, use it with an oil filter from here:

http://www.v8filters.co.uk/
A problem with extended oil change intervals for elderly engine designs in road cars is unburnt fuel contaminating the oil, this can cause issues irrespective of whether the oil is synth, part-synth or mineral, so elderly engine designs need frequent oil changes. Extended viscosity range is useful.

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2013
quotequote all
V8 Fettler said:
ChimpOnGas said:
Valvoline VR1 is a good oil with the essential zinc needed to keep your cam in good shape, but it is just a mineral - not even a semi synthetic.

For an extra £6 you can jump up two levels to the excellent fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 - 15w/60 from "Classic Oils".

http://www.classic-oils.net/Product-349/Products-b...

This is a very high quality oil with all the right additives and 15w/60 makes it absolutely perfect for the RV8.

Being a fully synthetic it will be more temperature stable and will last a lot longer before the molecules get mangled, the result is you can safely extend your change intervals while still providing your engine with better protection than a mineral oil.

At £31.00 for such a quality fully synthetic oil, in my opinion Penrite HPR15 15w/60 represents the best value RV8 oil available by a good margin.

Penrite are a well respected Australian company who've been supplying quality lubricants for over 80 years.

I've been using their oils since the early nineties when they first entered the UK classic car lubrication market, we used it with great success in Austin Healeys involved in classic racing, these cars ran very hot and were extremely hard on their engine oil.

The Penrite oils we used were (and still are) the best available for older engine designs, the fact Penrite HPR15 15w/60 is £31.00 for five litres is just a nice bonus, you'd need to pay almost twice that for a equal oil like Millers CFS 15w60.

Bargain!

For ultimate engine protection, use it with an oil filter from here:

http://www.v8filters.co.uk/
A problem with extended oil change intervals for elderly engine designs in road cars is unburnt fuel contaminating the oil, this can cause issues irrespective of whether the oil is synth, part-synth or mineral, so elderly engine designs need frequent oil changes. Extended viscosity range is useful.
You've misunderstood, I'm not advocating extending your oil change intervals, quite the opposite.

I'm just saying a fully synthetic gives you that option.

My advise is still a 3,000 mile or 6 month change whichever comes sooner & whatever oil you choose, but the synthetic will always be more temperature stable, provide a better oil film under stress & remain serviceable long after a mineral or semi-synthetic.

Use a quality oil & filter yes, extend your oil changes no!

As you can see from my post here, I myself stick to a 3,000 mile change frequency.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2013
quotequote all
Agree with that - I tend to use cheaper oil and change more often, 3000 miles for me and filter every 6000. This reduces sludge buildup - under my rocker covers after 50k miles there was nothing to scrape out.

jon haines

960 posts

276 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2013
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For the last few years i have used Millers classic range engine oil and find it to be very good. I agree with frequency of change though as most of the rv8 engines seem to build up a lot of sludge in thr rocker covers due to infrequent changes.