passenger side 12v accessory socket
Discussion
Having got myself a smart battery trickle charger from Lidl for £15 a few weeks ago, I had been looking for ways to make connecting it easier than having to lift the bonnet in a garage that is only just big enough for the car. After considering various options, I decided that I would wire in an additional 12v accessory socket that was live all the time, and put an accessory plug on to the end of the charger lead to replace the crocodile clips.
I picked up the positive from the positive feed on the starter motor, and the negative from the chassis earth point just above the starter (under the washer bottle). Both connected using a ring connector under the bolt on the terminal. From these two locations I ran the wires through the bulkhead with the wiring loom, under the glove box and to the centre console. I added an inline bladed fuse holder to the positive. There are perhaps easier ways to do this by tapping in to wires around the fuse box, but wanted the feed to be as direct to the battery as possible.
The centre console fibreglass panel is pre-drilled on the passenger side ready for the socket, and is in the mirror location of the drivers side. A nice surprise and makes the job a lot easier. All I needed to do was feel for the hole from the back and push a sharp knife through the PVC/Leatherette, and then trim it to match the hole. I did need to enlarge the hole very slightly using a file to accept the the accessory socket I had.
The parts used were all from Maplin. They are cheaper on ebay from China but the supplier I chose failed to deliver my order and refunded my money after just over a week of waiting as they did not have all the parts in stock, so I ended up at Maplin to get the bits off the shelf. I already had some suitable wire and crimp connectors.
unfused plug
chassis socket but did not use the optional oblong mounting plate.
fuse holder
I had also ordered a socket to croc clips lead from ebay so that I can use my charger on other batteries/cars as required. This did arrive on time.
You need a soldering iron to attach the wires to the accessory plug. If soldering is not your thing, you could buy an accessory extension lead and use both ends of this with some crimp terminals. If crimp terminals are not you thing, do not even attempt this job - get in your car and drive it
On the accessory socket, positive in the middle pin, negative is the outer.
I also get the added bonus of being able to now plug in my phone charger without it banging on my left knee every time I change gear.
It all works fine. I am not an electrical expert but know enough to get by or be dangerous, so please do tell me if I have done something horribly wrong.
I picked up the positive from the positive feed on the starter motor, and the negative from the chassis earth point just above the starter (under the washer bottle). Both connected using a ring connector under the bolt on the terminal. From these two locations I ran the wires through the bulkhead with the wiring loom, under the glove box and to the centre console. I added an inline bladed fuse holder to the positive. There are perhaps easier ways to do this by tapping in to wires around the fuse box, but wanted the feed to be as direct to the battery as possible.
The centre console fibreglass panel is pre-drilled on the passenger side ready for the socket, and is in the mirror location of the drivers side. A nice surprise and makes the job a lot easier. All I needed to do was feel for the hole from the back and push a sharp knife through the PVC/Leatherette, and then trim it to match the hole. I did need to enlarge the hole very slightly using a file to accept the the accessory socket I had.
The parts used were all from Maplin. They are cheaper on ebay from China but the supplier I chose failed to deliver my order and refunded my money after just over a week of waiting as they did not have all the parts in stock, so I ended up at Maplin to get the bits off the shelf. I already had some suitable wire and crimp connectors.
unfused plug
chassis socket but did not use the optional oblong mounting plate.
fuse holder
I had also ordered a socket to croc clips lead from ebay so that I can use my charger on other batteries/cars as required. This did arrive on time.
You need a soldering iron to attach the wires to the accessory plug. If soldering is not your thing, you could buy an accessory extension lead and use both ends of this with some crimp terminals. If crimp terminals are not you thing, do not even attempt this job - get in your car and drive it
On the accessory socket, positive in the middle pin, negative is the outer.
I also get the added bonus of being able to now plug in my phone charger without it banging on my left knee every time I change gear.
It all works fine. I am not an electrical expert but know enough to get by or be dangerous, so please do tell me if I have done something horribly wrong.
Good idea. I was fed up with the inconvenience of needing the ignition on for mine too, plus the satnav plug sticking in my knee whenever I plugged it in. As I've recently changed my front fogs for spots I had a redundant switch on the centre panel, so I put my extra socket there instead. Very handy, and nothing sticks into either driver or passenger's knee.
Graham
Graham
so spots come on all the time with main beam, no switching?Sandgrounder said:
Ragtop, I like the look of that!! Can you advise where you got the socket from? I also have a redundant switch and was originally intending to do the passenger side Mod as per OP, but prefer your solution.
Thanks,
Graham
These are fairly common, and not the cheapest but reasonable quality, For example:Thanks,
Graham
You'll need to slightly enlarge the switch panel backing plate slot and open out the cover panel slot a little more, but otherwise it's a fairly straightforward fit.
Have fun!
Graham
Graham,
Excellent Idea. I was contemplating on removing the dial gauges on my dash and going with push button. However...I do not need the gauge dimming switch (the settings are really off, dim, and dim), so this maybe an excellent idea.
J
Excellent Idea. I was contemplating on removing the dial gauges on my dash and going with push button. However...I do not need the gauge dimming switch (the settings are really off, dim, and dim), so this maybe an excellent idea.
J
Ragtop said:
These are fairly common, and not the cheapest but reasonable quality, For example:
You'll need to slightly enlarge the switch panel backing plate slot and open out the cover panel slot a little more, but otherwise it's a fairly straightforward fit.
Have fun!
Graham
You'll need to slightly enlarge the switch panel backing plate slot and open out the cover panel slot a little more, but otherwise it's a fairly straightforward fit.
Have fun!
Graham
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