How to adjust Elixir 3s?
Discussion
I really don't like these brakes. My other bike has Tektros which are adjustable at the lever end but not the Elixirs (that I can tell). The pads are too close to the disc all the time - they rub constantly and squeal. They are applying pressure to the disc from both pads as though I had my hand on the lever at all times. The bike is unusable as it is.
With the Tektros, I can reduce the pressure at the pads by adjusting the lever. This means the distance I have to pull before I get any pressure/friction is increased. I can feel a small period of "dead" before the brakes bite. I like it this way because I am confident the brakes are not applying pressure on their own.
The Elixirs have no "dead" spot. Pull them and you feel pressure straight away. The lever adjustment screw seems to do nothing. It's as though they were filled with oil without the pads and discs in place, and there's simply too much in there. That make sense?
Desperate now. Any help gratefully received.
With the Tektros, I can reduce the pressure at the pads by adjusting the lever. This means the distance I have to pull before I get any pressure/friction is increased. I can feel a small period of "dead" before the brakes bite. I like it this way because I am confident the brakes are not applying pressure on their own.
The Elixirs have no "dead" spot. Pull them and you feel pressure straight away. The lever adjustment screw seems to do nothing. It's as though they were filled with oil without the pads and discs in place, and there's simply too much in there. That make sense?
Desperate now. Any help gratefully received.
You could try bleeding them completely - their might be too much fluid in the system.
I've had Elixir CRs which were fine but needed constant bleeding - I now have X0s which seem much better. Not sure how well 3s fare but hopefully they are well sealed - an Avid bleed kit, a Youtube vid and some patience is all you need - it's pretty easy.
I've had Elixir CRs which were fine but needed constant bleeding - I now have X0s which seem much better. Not sure how well 3s fare but hopefully they are well sealed - an Avid bleed kit, a Youtube vid and some patience is all you need - it's pretty easy.
I read the service manual. There's a lot of info about how to disassemble and align the calipers but nothing to explain the problem I currently have.
However, writing it down for this thread has focussed my mind. I've had a think about it then thought sod-it and had a go at something I was probably too afraid of in the past... I squeezed out a tiny amount of fluid from the fill/bleed screw in the lever/master cyl and [insert expletive of joy] it appears to have worked. I now have a "dead" zone which is adjustable with the lever/piston screw.
It must have been overfilled originally. Until I wrote it down, I hadn't considered that.
However, writing it down for this thread has focussed my mind. I've had a think about it then thought sod-it and had a go at something I was probably too afraid of in the past... I squeezed out a tiny amount of fluid from the fill/bleed screw in the lever/master cyl and [insert expletive of joy] it appears to have worked. I now have a "dead" zone which is adjustable with the lever/piston screw.
It must have been overfilled originally. Until I wrote it down, I hadn't considered that.
I had similar problems with Elxirs on my old bike. Resetting the pistons used to help, use an old pad when pushing them back in.
Sometimes one of the pistons was lazy and they wouldn't operate with equal pressure. You can sort of train them out of this by holding one piston in and operating the lever to force the other out, then reset them again and repeat, should be much better afterwards.
Sometimes one of the pistons was lazy and they wouldn't operate with equal pressure. You can sort of train them out of this by holding one piston in and operating the lever to force the other out, then reset them again and repeat, should be much better afterwards.
I know what you mean - one piston is sticking and dragging against the disc. My problem was more that there was pressure in the system forcing the pads against the disc at all times, albeit only minimally but enough that there's always drag and the disc gets hot after a while, transfers heat back into the brakes and then they get worse.
Now I appear to have gained that little dead spot I wanted. The spring plate holding the pads in place seems the be the only return spring pushing the pads off the disc, although the lever itself has a return spring which takes pressure of the slave cylinders.
Now I appear to have gained that little dead spot I wanted. The spring plate holding the pads in place seems the be the only return spring pushing the pads off the disc, although the lever itself has a return spring which takes pressure of the slave cylinders.
Watchman said:
I read the service manual. There's a lot of info about how to disassemble and align the calipers but nothing to explain the problem I currently have.
However, writing it down for this thread has focussed my mind. I've had a think about it then thought sod-it and had a go at something I was probably too afraid of in the past... I squeezed out a tiny amount of fluid from the fill/bleed screw in the lever/master cyl and [insert expletive of joy] it appears to have worked. I now have a "dead" zone which is adjustable with the lever/piston screw.
It must have been overfilled originally. Until I wrote it down, I hadn't considered that.
This is what I was going to suggest. It's quite common on these brakes and is exactly what I've had to do after fitting new pads.However, writing it down for this thread has focussed my mind. I've had a think about it then thought sod-it and had a go at something I was probably too afraid of in the past... I squeezed out a tiny amount of fluid from the fill/bleed screw in the lever/master cyl and [insert expletive of joy] it appears to have worked. I now have a "dead" zone which is adjustable with the lever/piston screw.
It must have been overfilled originally. Until I wrote it down, I hadn't considered that.
I have Elixir3's on my Boardman - havent had the trouble you described, and prefer them to the Juicy3's i had on my old GT.
Anyway, apologies if you have done this, but have you tried loosening the calliper mounting bolts, squeezing the brake lever, and re-tightening the mounting bolts (while keeping pressure on the lever)? 9 times out of 10 that solves slightly squealy or bound brakes, because it makes sure the disc is central.
The disc isnt warped or otherwise damaged is it?
Anyway, apologies if you have done this, but have you tried loosening the calliper mounting bolts, squeezing the brake lever, and re-tightening the mounting bolts (while keeping pressure on the lever)? 9 times out of 10 that solves slightly squealy or bound brakes, because it makes sure the disc is central.
The disc isnt warped or otherwise damaged is it?
richardxjr said:
This is what I was going to suggest. It's quite common on these brakes and is exactly what I've had to do after fitting new pads.
Thanks for the confirmation. 
daddy cool said:
I have Elixir3's on my Boardman - havent had the trouble you described, and prefer them to the Juicy3's i had on my old GT.
Anyway, apologies if you have done this, but have you tried loosening the calliper mounting bolts, squeezing the brake lever, and re-tightening the mounting bolts (while keeping pressure on the lever)? 9 times out of 10 that solves slightly squealy or bound brakes, because it makes sure the disc is central.
The disc isnt warped or otherwise damaged is it?
Thanks, yes I tried centreing the calipers before. They're just about spot-on now. The disc isn't warped, although I did worry I might warp it with the heat created when the pads were binding.Anyway, apologies if you have done this, but have you tried loosening the calliper mounting bolts, squeezing the brake lever, and re-tightening the mounting bolts (while keeping pressure on the lever)? 9 times out of 10 that solves slightly squealy or bound brakes, because it makes sure the disc is central.
The disc isnt warped or otherwise damaged is it?
Seems to work properly now. They still squeal when I'm applying the brakes but I understand that might be because I have metallic compound pads and that organic pads are better in this regard. I must have organics on my Tektros because they're silent. I cannot complain about the efficacy of the Elixirs though - they are properly powerful.
Thanks all. I've decided not to chuck my bike in the skip after all.
If (when) the self centering caliper adjust doesn't work, it's really easy to manually set for no rub (once you've got any excess fluid out 
). By slackening the 2 mounting bolts just enough to move the caliper, you can move each end in/out and adjust on the vertical too. I use a torch from underneath and rotate the wheel to check. This is how you dial out any rubbing due to a slight warp.
They're not that bad to bleed either (using the correct kit and std 5.1 fluid), so once you've learned how to do all this they are actually very good brakes.
). By slackening the 2 mounting bolts just enough to move the caliper, you can move each end in/out and adjust on the vertical too. I use a torch from underneath and rotate the wheel to check. This is how you dial out any rubbing due to a slight warp. They're not that bad to bleed either (using the correct kit and std 5.1 fluid), so once you've learned how to do all this they are actually very good brakes.
Edited by richardxjr on Tuesday 29th October 14:09
shouldbworking said:
Best adjustment = remove them from bike, throw them in the bin, fit deores. It's worked flawlessly on my bikes that came fitted with juicys / elixirs
Mr E said:
I ditched Elixir's and put a set of XTs on. The difference is night and day.
I have to say, I don't like the feel of them compared with my Tektros. I rarely use the HardTail though, and not nearly as hard as many people here do, so it'd be a complete waste of money upgrading them, however they seem to sell well on Ebay and a friend does happen to have a set of virtually new complete-overkill Hope brakes for sale and would let me have them for a song just to avoid Ebay...Edited by Watchman on Tuesday 29th October 15:21
Got Elixir 5's on my Trek Fuel. Have to say, they are the worst thing on the bike by far. The rear one in particular needs constant bleeding every few months otherwise it jams solid. The Hope monos on my hardtail have been on it for nearly 10 years and I think I've bled them about 3 times, they just always work perfectly. I expect there is too much fluid in yours meaning the pads runs too close to the disc. Get a bleed kit and have a play (don't get a genuine one, you can get a decent one for £10-15) the only bits you really need are the two brass fittings that screw in the brake. some decent vids on youtube on how to bleed them. It's a faff. Much prefer my Hopes, just bleed them exactly the same as a car brake system.
I have Avids on my Boardman and my Enduro and guess what I haven't had a problem. If the pads are rubbing then you need to do one of two things. Either push the pistons back or realign the calliper.
To push the pistons back. Take the wheel off and the gently loosen the bleed valve. (don't remove just loosen it a bit) Then wrap a old rag around the brake to stop fluid leaking out over the bike. Now use get a large flat screwdriver to gently force the callipers apart. At this point you will lose a little fluid. When there is sufficient space between the pads and the disk then tighten the bleed screw.
To realign the calliper loosen the bolts so you can move the calliper with your hands now spin the wheel and move the calliper to a position it doesn't stick. Once you find this position tighten the callipers.
P
To push the pistons back. Take the wheel off and the gently loosen the bleed valve. (don't remove just loosen it a bit) Then wrap a old rag around the brake to stop fluid leaking out over the bike. Now use get a large flat screwdriver to gently force the callipers apart. At this point you will lose a little fluid. When there is sufficient space between the pads and the disk then tighten the bleed screw.
To realign the calliper loosen the bolts so you can move the calliper with your hands now spin the wheel and move the calliper to a position it doesn't stick. Once you find this position tighten the callipers.
P
Mr E said:
ecsrobin said:
I've got elixir brakes at got to say they're shocking. But with so many brands and models I'm just not sure what to get. I'm a hope fan but see more and more riders running shimano brakes?
I ditched Elixir's and put a set of XTs on. The difference is night and day.Just to balance this, my X0 brakes are basically refined Elixirs and they are absolutely BRILLIANT. Never need bleeding, superb modulation, virtually no squeaking and they weigh naff all. Easy to bleed and pad replacement is a breeze (unlike the REALLY annoying Juicys).
Mates run 3s without issues too.
Mates run 3s without issues too.
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