ECU Fault Reading
Discussion
I have had 400HC for a few weeks and it's not running as smooth as it should and will not pull from low revs like I know it should so I took it into a garage to see if they could find the fault. So far no luck and I asked if they had plugged the ECU into a diagnostic machine, as I was lead to believe you could from the bible. The mechanic told me that it did not store fault codes and that this was not possible like a modern car. Am I being misinformed?
Having forked out for the insurance I can't really afford to splash out on lots of labour. Any help would be appreciated.
Having forked out for the insurance I can't really afford to splash out on lots of labour. Any help would be appreciated.
Yes there is a primative fault storage capability with the RV8 Lucas ECU. If they say it hasn't got one they are wrong, perhaps they don't have the gizmo that reads them, not all do as it is an old system, ring around and find someone that does. You might even be luck and have someone local in the car club that happens to have one too.
harry
On my S3 (Ford EEC IV ECU) you could diagnose ECU faults through a light bulb connected to the diagnostic connector. Once in diagnostic mode (I think you grounded one of the pins on the connector) this flashed (a bit like morse code) and allowed you to look up against a table of faults.
No idea if the Rover ECU does a similar thing.
In my experience (rather limited!) the sort of faults recorded by the ECU were never the problem, always worn out leads, coils, rotor arms or sensors...
>> Edited by chris_chim on Friday 5th November 14:11
No idea if the Rover ECU does a similar thing.
In my experience (rather limited!) the sort of faults recorded by the ECU were never the problem, always worn out leads, coils, rotor arms or sensors...
>> Edited by chris_chim on Friday 5th November 14:11
Can I suggest that you post more information about the poor performance, so that those with experience of similar problems can tell you of the solution that worked for them?
If this helps? I have replaced only two things on my engine for the following reasons & results:
Temperature Sensor
I had noticed that engine performance seemed to vary with the weather? The cars performance being worse on hot sunny days and wondered if the general increase in the engines operating temperature was not being correctly reported and interpreted by the ECU.
Result was a slight improvement in running.
Ignition Coil
I noticed traces of a brownish oil weeping from the HT lead socket, so replaced the std. coil with the BOSCH unit mentioned in the SH bible.
Result was immediately noticeabale with the car appearing to be much quicker, pulling from low speeds to higher speeds much more easily in all gears and the tickover and low rev performance was better as well.
I suspect that the poor engine performance on hot days was in fact the coil breaking down due to the high under-bonnet temps. The BOSCH coil seems to take the abuse much better.
If this helps? I have replaced only two things on my engine for the following reasons & results:
Temperature Sensor
I had noticed that engine performance seemed to vary with the weather? The cars performance being worse on hot sunny days and wondered if the general increase in the engines operating temperature was not being correctly reported and interpreted by the ECU.
Result was a slight improvement in running.
Ignition Coil
I noticed traces of a brownish oil weeping from the HT lead socket, so replaced the std. coil with the BOSCH unit mentioned in the SH bible.
Result was immediately noticeabale with the car appearing to be much quicker, pulling from low speeds to higher speeds much more easily in all gears and the tickover and low rev performance was better as well.
I suspect that the poor engine performance on hot days was in fact the coil breaking down due to the high under-bonnet temps. The BOSCH coil seems to take the abuse much better.
Thanks for the advice. Got the car back from the dealer and it now will happily sit at lower revs and seems slightly better but the miss is still there and almost kangaroo effect when in first. They told me they had done the timing, checked the coil and re-gapped the plugs. They suggest to replace the ht leads and ignition module, but I had run out of money! Cleaned the stepper motor today, which was filthy, and the vacuum advance was loose. Cleaned and tightended these and still no difference. Now have a problem starting when warm, which I never had before. Disconnected the ECU and reconnected and still no better. I am thinking the only thing now is to get it on a rolling road with a specialist. Anybody with any ideas or advice?
Are these the same people who told you the ECU doesn't store fault codes? It doesn't sound as if they have any experience with RV8 powered TVRs so are probably not best placed to investigate this sort of problem; you might have more success with a TVR specialist. Air leaks in the inlet manifold can cause all sorts of poor manners at light throttle openings, but it could still be an ignition or fuel problem. Kind of hard (and expensive) to track it down by trial and error, and the experts often seem to have a sixth sense about this sort of thing. I guess it comes from fixing this sort of problem day in day out.
eel330 said:
Thanks for the advice. Got the car back from the dealer and it now will happily sit at lower revs and seems slightly better but the miss is still there and almost kangaroo effect when in first. They told me they had done the timing, checked the coil and re-gapped the plugs. They suggest to replace the ht leads and ignition module, but I had run out of money! Cleaned the stepper motor today, which was filthy, and the vacuum advance was loose. Cleaned and tightended these and still no difference. Now have a problem starting when warm, which I never had before. Disconnected the ECU and reconnected and still no better. I am thinking the only thing now is to get it on a rolling road with a specialist. Anybody with any ideas or advice?
I think that is disgusting the fact that you have had to rectify obvious faults after it had been at a dealer's.
You could do with finding some garage with a crypton diagnostic unit with oscilloscope, this would probably identify any electrical fault and throw light on any possible mechanical problem.
A good set of Magnecor leads and non resistive shrouds is a must. Do this before anything else.
Right, after reading some more posts, I am going to try the coolant temp sensor as it seems to cure the exact problems I am having.
Also, when I cleaned the stepper motor I chucked the gasket as it fell apart when removed. Thought some PTFE would do the job but since learned that it may affect how far the motor screws in, so going to re-do this at the weekend. Anybody know if I can get the gasket for the stepper motor?
Also, when I cleaned the stepper motor I chucked the gasket as it fell apart when removed. Thought some PTFE would do the job but since learned that it may affect how far the motor screws in, so going to re-do this at the weekend. Anybody know if I can get the gasket for the stepper motor?
:lol:eel330 said:
Also, when I cleaned the stepper motor I chucked the gasket as it fell apart when removed. ...... Anybody know if I can get the gasket for the stepper motor?
You may be able to get one from a dealer - phone first, they are unique TVR. I needed one in a hurry on a Sunday and found a suitable fibre washer at a plumber's merchants! (no charge) Also used some silicone instant gasket to ensure no leaks.
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