Spiyda & Earths - Behind Dash - Help...
Spiyda & Earths - Behind Dash - Help...
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Discussion

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Monday 4th November 2013
quotequote all
My Spiyda gauge calibrator is now properly calibrated to my water temp gauge thanks to the efforts of Chris at Spiyda. I was wondering if anybody has a shot of one fitted behind their dash or could tell me th best way to go about it?

It needs an earth and a 12v live feed, so I was considering splitting a couple of wires behind the dash to achieve this… however, green wires, black wires, red wires… which are which? I am 'scensoredt' at electrics, so all dumbed down and pedestrian advice is welcome!!!




ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
Hi Christian, like you say all you need to do is take a live & earth from the back of another gauge.

Use a test meter to confirm what's a the live and what's an earth.

Easy peasy, but you will need a test meter which at the end of the day is probably the most useful tool any TVR owner can have.

This one for a fiver has more features than you'll ever need, so a multi meter needn't break the bank.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Digital-Mul...

In my opinion TVR should have supplied a test meter with every car they sold wink

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
Hi Christian, like you say all you need to do is take a live & earth from the back of another gauge.

Use a test meter to confirm what's a the live and what's an earth.

Easy peasy, but you will need a test meter which at the end of the day is probably the most useful tool any TVR owner can have.

This one for a fiver has more features than you'll ever need, so a multi meter needn't break the bank.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Digital-Mul...

In my opinion TVR should have supplied a test meter with every car they sold wink
Cheers Dave. For some reason, I seem to have it in the back of my mind that the green is the live. Where would I connect the probes to test, one to the live and another to an earth? Sorry to sound like an idiot. Electrics in the house are no problem for me, but the whole auto electrics confuses the hell out of me!

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
Chuffmeister said:
Cheers Dave. For some reason, I seem to have it in the back of my mind that the green is the live. Where would I connect the probes to test, one to the live and another to an earth? Sorry to sound like an idiot. Electrics in the house are no problem for me, but the whole auto electrics confuses the hell out of me!
Its so easy mate, just put the milti-meter black earth probe on any metal surface, the handbrake lever or gearstick both should provide a good solid earth.

Then with the meter set on the 20v range start prodding nearest gauge connector using the red live probe that you suspect may be a live.

When you find a live the meter will read 12v, you're already half way there.

Once you've found the good live keep that live probe in place, remove the earth probe from the handbrake/gearstick and start prodding nearby gauge connectors you suspect of being an earth.

It'll probably be black & right next to your live, you'll know when you've found an earth because the meter will show 12v again.

Now you have the live & earth you need to fit your Wizard wink

Simple thumbup



PS: You could just as easily do all this with a 12v bulb and two lengths of wire, but learn how to use your multi-meter properly and it'll be your TVR breakdown friend for ever yes

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
None of the above advice will hold true unless you have the ignition switched on...

... and it's generally good sense to do this kind of stuff with the battery disconnected!

Typically in the TVR dash, black is ground, green is dash fused with ignition on (they're the 2 you want).... red permanent live for clock, red/white for dash lights then the rest are feeds from sensors/senders to the instruments / &controls.

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
spend said:
None of the above advice will hold true unless you have the ignition switched on...
Oooo sorry, was I meant to tell him to turn the ignition on too redface

Boy you can be condescending Spend, I was working on the assumption Christian has noticed he needs to turn the ignition on to bring his instruments to life.

spend said:
... and it's generally good sense to do this kind of stuff with the battery disconnected!
So now you've got him turning the ignition on, then disconnecting the battery, how exactly is that helping Christian, who clearly just needs a little bit of simple but FRIELDLY advice on using a mult-meter to find a live and earth.

spend said:
Typically in the TVR dash, black is ground,
Didn't I say that already confused



Christian, just get yourself a cheap meter mate and follow my instructions, you'll have your Wizard installed in minutes.

And for what you're doing, there's really no need to disconnect the battery mate, as Spend so cleverly points out all you need to do is turn your ignition key off, and the live wire you found will no longer be live.

To my knowledge only the clock is a permanent live, the rest are switched lives, so yes Sherlock, Christian will need to turn his ignition on to find one.


My god there are some pedantic people out there rolleyes

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
Its so easy mate, just put the milti-meter black earth probe on any metal surface, the handbrake lever or gearstick both should provide a good solid earth.

Then with the meter set on the 20v range start prodding nearest gauge connector using the red live probe that you suspect may be a live.

When you find a live the meter will read 12v, you're already half way there.

Once you've found the good live keep that live probe in place, remove the earth probe from the handbrake/gearstick and start prodding nearby gauge connectors you suspect of being an earth.

It'll probably be black & right next to your live, you'll know when you've found an earth because the meter will show 12v again.

Now you have the live & earth you need to fit your Wizard wink

Simple thumbup



PS: You could just as easily do all this with a 12v bulb and two lengths of wire, but learn how to use your multi-meter properly and it'll be your TVR breakdown friend for ever yes
Cheers for this Dave! I just so happens that I have a meter, so will get around to putting the Spiyda back in asap. Hopefully when the weather relents! Just one more question, what connector do I need for the temperature sensor end? The one that pushes onto the Rover temp sender?

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
spend said:
Typically in the TVR dash, black is ground, green is dash fused with ignition on (they're the 2 you want).... red permanent live for clock, red/white for dash lights then the rest are feeds from sensors/senders to the instruments / &controls.
That's useful to know, cheers.

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
Chuffmeister said:
Cheers for this Dave! I just so happens that I have a meter, so will get around to putting the Spiyda back in asap. Hopefully when the weather relents! Just one more question, what connector do I need for the temperature sensor end? The one that pushes onto the Rover temp sender?
Just use a regular female bullet connector, it snaps right on & stays put.

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
Just use a regular female bullet connector, it snaps right on & stays put.
Cheers Dave!smile

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
Chuffmeister said:
ChimpOnGas said:
Just use a regular female bullet connector, it snaps right on & stays put.
Cheers Dave!smile
thumbup

SILICONEKID343HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
Why do you need a Fuel gauge wizard ?

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
SILICONEKID343HP said:
Why do you need a Fuel gauge wizard ?
The wizard works on other senders. This one has been calibrated to work with the LR temp sender that is located next to the ECU temp sender. It should then give 'more accurate' readings, similar to that from Rovergauge... I hope.

SILICONEKID343HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
Chuffmeister said:
The wizard works on other senders. This one has been calibrated to work with the LR temp sender that is located next to the ECU temp sender. It should then give 'more accurate' readings, similar to that from Rovergauge... I hope.
Its a lot of hassle ,how far out is the LR one ?

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
SILICONEKID343HP said:
Its a lot of hassle ,how far out is the LR one ?
I've no idea, I can't get a steady reading on it. Sometimes it's 5 and other times its 15 degrees. I don't trust it and want to know exactly when its getting hot! Its more expensive, but should be a more reliable way than the 170ohm resistor mod!

SILICONEKID343HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Tuesday 5th November 2013
quotequote all
Chuffmeister said:
I've no idea, I can't get a steady reading on it. Sometimes it's 5 and other times its 15 degrees. I don't trust it and want to know exactly when its getting hot! Its more expensive, but should be a more reliable way than the 170ohm resistor mod!
Could you use the ECU temp sender ? to some type of Gizmo >

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Wednesday 6th November 2013
quotequote all
SILICONEKID343HP said:
Could you use the ECU temp sender ? to some type of Gizmo >
Its not calibrated to the gauge. This is the cheapest and most accurate way if you intend to keep the original gauges. Either that, or to tap the LR hole on the manifold, so it will accept the TVR sender.