Tips for Winter Storage

[Black-C5]

I am fairly new to the world of classic cars, but have just taken delivery of a restored and lightly modified 1967 Mustang Fastback. Clearly this is not the best time of year to be driving a 46-year old muscle car, so it won't get much use over the coming months. What should I be doing to the car to ensure it remains in good condition over the winter?

For example, do I need to connect the battery to a trickle charger? There are no electrical systems like alarms to drain the battery, so is this necessary? Is it a good idea to take the car for a run (weather permitting), or at least start the engine, say every couple of weeks? I'm also considering buying a de-humidifier for the garage, but what about a car cover too, or is that unnecessary?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated...

[DaveEssex]

I have kept a 1956 Jaguar XK140, very satisfactorily, at home for the last 7 years in a good quality ventilated brick garage without a de-humidifier, all year around.
You have covered all the basics.
I have always kept the battery in the car and attached to an intelligent trickle charger - all is well still with the original.
I take the car for a run to ensure all liquids are warmed up and recirculated every 3 weeks, optimum, even through Winter. Also exercises the gearbox, cltutch, tyres, bearings and joints etc.
I use a heavy non-synthetic breatheable car cover, which although not fitted, covers the car ground to ground.

[benjj]

Regarding warming up/running.

A chap who I respect in a big way always advised AGAINST running the car up to temp in situ. He said it would cause the exhaust to fill with condensation and rot from the inside out. I kind of see what he means. I think Dave's suggestion of actually taking it for a spin is a good one. Either that or just don't start it.

Also a few other pointers:

Brim the tank with fuel, means you don't get water condensation (or at the very least limits it) meaning your fuel tank doesn't corrode internally.

Either invest in a set of 4 tyre shoes or slam your tyres up to max advised pressure - this will avoid flat spotting.

Make sure its put away clean, that means inside as well as out. If you can avoid little rodent rascals getting in that is good - don't leave croissant crumbs in the footwells like I did

[lowdrag]

If it's not a heated garage (mine isn't) then a Carcoon is advisable to protect it from condensation and they come with trickle charge clips for the battery. I don't start mine over the winter but that has never caused a problem and anyway, putting the Carcoon up and down is a hassle, unless you splash out and buy the new framed one. if you have a heated garage, well I'm sure you can always find a reason to take it for a spin on a nice day - just to warm it through and look after it of course

ETA: and if you aren't going to drive it over the winter, remember to pump the tyres up to about 50 psi, otherwise you run the risk of square tyres in the spring. I've had it in the past and it is expensive!

Edited by lowdrag on Monday 11th November 12:57

[droopsnoot]

I try to run mine once a month over winter, luckily it's kept at a place with a long drive so I can drive it a reasonable distance. I don't get free VED, so it's not taxed. I try to pick a dry day so it's not just adding trouble. On the mouse thing, remember to close air vents as well if you don't have mesh over the intakes - I had mice in the car but luckily they only ate a copy of Classic Motor Monthly. But I had to pull all the interior out to make sure that's all they'd done, so best to prevent if possible.

On the running thing, I was told once it's not a good idea to run it for a short period, make sure it warms up properly.

[austin]

If you are going to fill it with fuel and leave it make sure you use fuel that doesn't go off. Modern unleaded stuff is rubbish after about 3 weeks and makes starting a nightmare in older cars, (mine are 90+ years old and I only use super now.

[SilverWraith]

How long is winter where you are? I don't drive my "good" cars in the worst of the bad weather but the longest the Rolls-Royce gets laid up for is about a month or six weeks (mid December - mid/late January). Take it out whenever you can . . . it is fun and, after all, why you bought it. Obviously I am not proposing in the snow and ice but definitely in other weather. The worst you have to do is clean it again after the run (which again should be a fun task caring for your beautiful car).

I have never had a problem with this and never had squared tyres. I do have the cars on trickle chargers (more so that they are ready when I want them) and I DO NOT heat the garages as that would just mean the moisture in the air will condense even more ont he coldest surface in the garage - the cars! On occasions (a few times a year in the winter) I have seen pols of water aroundt he cars from condensation drippin goff them. It seems to happen just when the climatic conditions are just right for it. Not much to do about that except keep the garage as well ventilated as possible.

DO NOT de-humidify unless you really want to dry out leather and any wood fascias (probably not an iddues for you).

[Black-C5]

Thanks for all the comments. In summary then, it would appear that a trickle charger is a good idea, as is brimming the fuel tank, and if I am going to start the car I should take it for a proper run if possible to make sure the fluids are properly warmed up. The garage isn't heated, so I'm thinking a de-humidifer would be a good idea (I don't have any wood trim to worry about and the leather is all brand new and will get treated with conditioner occasionally to keep it supple). Hoping for a mild winter, so at least I get to use the Mustang occasionally!

[Roy C]

benjj said:

...slam your tyres up to max advised pressure - this will avoid flat spotting.

This does work, but make sure you leave some kind of reminder that your tyres are hard or you will have "fun" on the ice.

[lowdrag]

Don't overegg the cake. If you have a Carcoon you won't need a dehumidifier since the air is constantly moved by the electric fans, and a dehumidifier needs constant attention to take the water out - more often than you think in fact. My leather hasn't suffered at all in the winter in the Carcoon, even though we get down to -17C at times. No, I have no association with them, and spent years thinking about one, but I wouldn't be without it now.

[Pedmeister]

Black-C5 said:

I am fairly new to the world of classic cars, but have just taken delivery of a restored and lightly modified 1967 Mustang Fastback. Clearly this is not the best time of year to be driving a 46-year old muscle car, so it won't get much use over the coming months. What should I be doing to the car to ensure it remains in good condition over the winter?

For example, do I need to connect the battery to a trickle charger? There are no electrical systems like alarms to drain the battery, so is this necessary? Is it a good idea to take the car for a run (weather permitting), or at least start the engine, say every couple of weeks? I'm also considering buying a de-humidifier for the garage, but what about a car cover too, or is that unnecessary?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated...

First of all, congratulations on purchasing one of the all time greatest classic cars! The 67 Fastback is fantastic looking Mustang, the pick of the bunch if you ask me. I have owned a Capri Injection as a limited mileage classic for over 19 years. I store the car in a brick built garage. I always over inflate the tyres in order to prevent them developing flat spots. I inflate them to 38-40 psi. The Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres on my car are over 15 years old and they are in excellent condition-covering no more than 1000 miles per annum. Check your anti-freeze for obvious reasons! I always REMOVE the battery from the car. I will not bore you with science, but it actually helps prevent corrosion. In addition, why run the risk of the battery leaking acid into the engine bay, it does/can happen! Connect it to a trickle charger in order to keep it in tip top order. I NEVER start the car once I take it off road. I was advised by an auto engineer not to do so. The reason being, every time you start the engine, you end up with condensation forming in the exhaust system-which is obviously not ideal-even with a stainless steel system fitted. My car has never suffered for not being started during it's usual 6-7 months hibernation. Before you put the car into storage, give it a thorough clean, especially under all the arches etc. Allow it to air thoroughly before putting it into the garage. Give the car a thorough waxing. No doubt your beast has chrome fittings? There are a myriad of things you can do to protect/preserve your chrome, don't merely rely on polishing it. You can buy paraffin wax spray, EG PS 691. Spray the outer surface and leave it to dry. It will protect the outer surface of your bumpers etc. You could remove the bumpers and paint the inside surface with a rust preventing primer, and or, apply Waxoyl and leave it in situ. Get hold of the November issue of, 'Practical Classics,' it contains a comprehensive article on protecting chrome fittings.
Buy some silica gel crystals-plenty on eBay. Place them in an open container and place them in the interior. They will absorb moisture and prevent any problems with the interior. I place a container in each of the four foot wells, and I place a container in the boot. Once a month, remove them and place the silica crystals in the over on low heat for a couple of hours. This will drive out the moisture and restore the crystals ability to absorb moisture.
Buy a quality car cover to help insulate the car and prevent dust & grit landing on the bodywork. Get yourself a good dehumidifier & a humidity indicator. You can buy quality dehumidifiers from Amazon. I use one in my garage, which is a large two car length 1930 built affair. You want to drive the humidity down below 60-50% ideally. Be warned though, it can get expensive running the dehumidifier non stop!
I have fitted a Hormann 44mm thick insulated sectional garage door. Not cheap but very effective at keeping dust/grit out, and it enhances the insulation no end. Consider fitting a small heater to keep the temperature above freezing during cold snaps. Ideally, you do not want the temperature to fall below 3-4c, the effectiveness/efficiency of dehumidifiers is adversely effected otherwise.
Fill your fuel tank to the max to prevent condensation build up, which promotes corrosion. Purchase a fuel stabilizer to prevent deterioration of the fuel, especially the modern fuels which contain ethanol-definitely NOT classic car friendly!

Finally-leave your handbrake *OFF* and the car in 1st gear. This will prevent your rear shoes seizing/binding on the drums. I have always done this and I have never had any problems. The same applies to cars fitted with rear discs. I have heard of Tickford Capri owners making the mistake of applying their handbrake when placing the car into storage. This can lead to brakes binding on and damage to the rear discs.

Hope this helps!

Edited by Pedmeister on Monday 11th November 19:24

[Black-C5]

Many thanks for your comprehensive response, Pedmeister. I'm off to buy a trickle charger and de-humidifier this weekend on the back of all this advice! Will also take on board all your comments about preserving the chrome trim and interior. Despite the 12 month restoration that's just been completed, the car is by no means concours but I rather like the "patina" which tells of an active life Stateside (some of which may have been on the dragstrip, I'm told!). Hence the chrome on the bumpers is slightly pitted in some places, the door handle chrome and windscreen surrounds are a bit dull, and there are scratches to the interior door panels. But the paintwork is all new, as is the exhaust system, wheels and much of the drivetrain and interior, so I'd like to preserve all that as best I can.

[Johnnytheboy]

Get a dessicant rather than compressor dehumidifier if the garage is unheated.

Compressor ones only work at normal household temperatures, dessicant ones work right down to ~0 deg C