Griff Breakdown. . . grrr
Discussion
She's been on a battery conditioner (albeit the builtin one I hadn't used before) for 4 days.
Took her out for a spin this evening. Started fine. Stopped off to do some shopping. Upon startup all good but headlights looked a bit dim. About 10 mins later I noticed the battery symbol had lit up. Engine started to labour, eventually crawling along in 1st gear. Engine died.
Obviously electrical, possibly a short. Anything I should look for in the vicinity of the battery and associated wiring?
RAC should be here within the hour!
Took her out for a spin this evening. Started fine. Stopped off to do some shopping. Upon startup all good but headlights looked a bit dim. About 10 mins later I noticed the battery symbol had lit up. Engine started to labour, eventually crawling along in 1st gear. Engine died.
Obviously electrical, possibly a short. Anything I should look for in the vicinity of the battery and associated wiring?
RAC should be here within the hour!
Edited by Digger on Saturday 23 November 05:06
If you car is a pre-cat I think it may not have a 100 Amp fuse, but on a 500 the fuse is accessed from underneath the car and is located near to the starter motor, in the cable which runs from the alternator to the battery I believe. I've heard that some cars may have a 100 Amp fuse in the cockpit behind the battery.
Digger said:
2001 500 SE. There is a hanging nutted cable and burnt out holder with the other nut under the engine bay, RAC chap thinks that is the 100A fuse. He's leaving now. Can't replace it now. Will ring Fernhurst in the morning and update RAC to carry out a repair etc.
That's the fella and obviously the problem. Check the cause otherwise you may need a few fuses!Some cars have both.
The one by the starter is on the underside of the chassis member.
The other is in the main line for the electrics near the battery. This will not be the problem. If it fails you loose all electrics in one hit which is not your situation.
If the one beside the battery fails you have no charge so just gradually run the battery flat.
Steve
The one by the starter is on the underside of the chassis member.
The other is in the main line for the electrics near the battery. This will not be the problem. If it fails you loose all electrics in one hit which is not your situation.
If the one beside the battery fails you have no charge so just gradually run the battery flat.
Steve
Steve_D said:
Some cars have both.
The one by the starter is on the underside of the chassis member.
The other is in the main line for the electrics near the battery. This will not be the problem. If it fails you loose all electrics in one hit which is not your situation.
If the one beside the battery fails you have no charge so just gradually run the battery flat.
Steve
So assuming that fuse (my bold) is still functioning, the battery conditioner seems to have worked and charged the battery. The one by the starter is on the underside of the chassis member.
The other is in the main line for the electrics near the battery. This will not be the problem. If it fails you loose all electrics in one hit which is not your situation.
If the one beside the battery fails you have no charge so just gradually run the battery flat.
Steve
So, on that assumption, a reasonably healthy, charged battery, and the melted 100A fuse as noted, the battery would be flattened after an approximately 30 minute drive?
Makes sense.
Why on earth did tvr fit the fuse so low down where all the road grit and spray could attack it?! Daft.
Edited by Digger on Monday 18th November 23:19
Colin RedGriff said:
Yes that's the 100a fuse. Sounds like you need a new holder and fuse. There's an upgrade to a more modern 125A fuse and holder you can do but not sure of the parts. Fernhurst will know what to do.
Thanks for that. I'll have a google now, but if anyone can come up with a link to parts that would be fantastic. Digger said:
2001 500 SE. There is a hanging nutted cable and burnt out holder with the other nut under the engine bay, RAC chap thinks that is the 100A fuse. He's leaving now. Can't replace it now. Will ring Fernhurst in the morning and update RAC to carry out a repair etc.
Just to clarify that he didn't leave me by the roadside. I was only 10 mins from home so we connected his battery pack to my battery which was just enough to allow me to drive home (him following) and made sure car was secure in the underground car park. Good service, shame he wasn't carrying appropriate parts, but I've reconnected the built-in battery conditioner. RAC have allowed me to leave the incident open which is good of them, so hopefully if needs be they could yet return and replace the fuse, which would be a bonus!
Edited by Digger on Tuesday 19th November 01:02
I haven't seen a fuse holder anywhere else, other than from TVR parts suppliers (Racetech Direct, Racing Green etc)....but I'd imagine you could get 'something' from a decent auto electrical factors. Just explain that you want something inline to take the feed ex the alternator to the battery and to hold a midi fuse.
The fuse is best replaced by a 'midi' type...some folks have gone for 125 amp rating...I have. This can also be easily sourced from an auto electrical factors for a couple of quid. The midi fuses are more mechanically robust, and won't tear like the strip fuses used originally. Dimensions are the same.
Nick
The fuse is best replaced by a 'midi' type...some folks have gone for 125 amp rating...I have. This can also be easily sourced from an auto electrical factors for a couple of quid. The midi fuses are more mechanically robust, and won't tear like the strip fuses used originally. Dimensions are the same.
Nick
OK, you seem to be sorted but just thought I'd show what I've found at a place in Southampton. http://www.aes-gb.com/
MIDI & Strip Link Fuse Holder (0-378-00)
0-378-00 MIDI & Strip Link Fuse Holder
MIDI and Strip link fuse holder.
For 0-378-xx range of fuses.
M5 studs.
Bag 1
£1.98 exc VAT
(£2.38 inc VAT)
And to replace fuse choose this in 100A rating.
MIDI Type Fuse (0-378)
0-378 MIDI Type Fuse
MIDI Type Fuses
Supplied in Singles
Please use the drop down box for Amperages & Colours
Amperages & Colours: -- please select -- 30 Amp : Colour : Orange 40 Amp : Colour : Green 50 Amp : Colour : Red 60 Amp : Colour : Yellow 70 Amp : Colour : Brown 80 Amp : Colour : White 100 Amp : Colour : Blue 125 Amp : Colour : Pink 150 Amp : Colour : Grey 200 Amp : Colour : Violet
£1.20 exc VAT
(£1.44 inc VAT)
So less than a fiver and you've got the lot.
Plus the midis are way superior than the strip type of fuse.
Nick
MIDI & Strip Link Fuse Holder (0-378-00)
0-378-00 MIDI & Strip Link Fuse Holder
MIDI and Strip link fuse holder.
For 0-378-xx range of fuses.
M5 studs.
Bag 1
£1.98 exc VAT
(£2.38 inc VAT)
And to replace fuse choose this in 100A rating.
MIDI Type Fuse (0-378)
0-378 MIDI Type Fuse
MIDI Type Fuses
Supplied in Singles
Please use the drop down box for Amperages & Colours
Amperages & Colours: -- please select -- 30 Amp : Colour : Orange 40 Amp : Colour : Green 50 Amp : Colour : Red 60 Amp : Colour : Yellow 70 Amp : Colour : Brown 80 Amp : Colour : White 100 Amp : Colour : Blue 125 Amp : Colour : Pink 150 Amp : Colour : Grey 200 Amp : Colour : Violet
£1.20 exc VAT
(£1.44 inc VAT)
So less than a fiver and you've got the lot.
Plus the midis are way superior than the strip type of fuse.
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Tuesday 19th November 17:10
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