floor replacement

[Green3R]

Gonna pop the floor off over winter (I like to make it sound like an easy job..!) so I can fit an improved gear linkage.

Stainless closed end rivets, 4mm. What length should I get?

Thanks
Andy

[The devil]

Are you reusing the old floor or replacing with new?, I made a new floor and bought a thicker aluminium

[JBliss]

Surely youd do that from the top?

[Green3R]

nah not doing from the top as I don't want to cut the tunnel about. Plus the floor hasn't been resealed.

I'm making up my own kit (though using standard m400 gearbox tower bits). I've over-engineered a machined aluminum bracket to sit on top of the ST220 shifter and bolt up to the top face of the tunnel. The other brackets are simple to work out based on the static position of all the levers and the intended movement.
Having the floor off gives me a clear view, and I can remove the old shifter stuff easier.

The standard bracket I'd seen a photo of seemed to (and must have been) spaced away from the lever housing and it just didn't look very robust.

[andygtt]

you have to cut from top anyhow to fit gear lever... i didn't do any extra cuts than i needed and didn't go via the underside at all.

[Green3R]

Hi Andy, you had to cut for extra lever movement, or just for dropping the stuff through?

Given that I'm making it all I'll prob still have the floor off. Floor is a pain but it'll make everything else easier. Maybe...

Give me a shout when you get your engine out so I can pop over and measure the bracket. Saves me having to re-invent that bit. Plus I can grab those shifter bits from you.

Cables sorted thanks to Grant.

Rivet length then... 9.5 clamps down to about 4.5 which sounds about right..?

Thanks

[JBliss]

You'd be surprised at how little access you'll have from below with all the pipes in the way.

[Green3R]

ah, that doesn't sound so promising!

[2.5bluenob]

Yeah got to agree that from the top is best. i have done this mod recently and it needs to be done from the top!
If you get under your car, undo the screws to release the vent in the floor under the tunnel. you will see how full the tunnel is. Only real way to do it from under would be to remove the engine and then all contents of the tunnel lol.

[Green3R]

so the pipes can't be pushed aside, or maybe detatched from the front and dropped down out of the way?
(with the floor off).

I still have to squeeze in there to undo the bolts that hold the padding on on top of the tunnel.

I suppose I'm making it more difficult by making my own mounts...

Might end up cutting the tunnel about but I'm gonna try not to. I've already machined the mount now!

Floor off, swear, jigsaw, some more swearing, assemble, done.
See, easy!

[brappage]

WIth the vents off you will be able to get your hand up between the pipes just with the required tools to undo the interior panels but thats about your lot based on my experience. Its not only the pipes but brake lines etc also which are not so easily moveable.

[Green3R]

sounds like I'm going in from the top then...!

Stll gonna try to use the bracket I've made. Should be possible.

Might start a new thread for 'stuff you've made for your Noble that really didn't need making as there was already another way to do it but it just looked neat'.

[andygtt]

andy... i took the engine out over the weekend so you can come round whenever you want... as i say don't get excited about taking the floor off as other than making it easier to remove your console it won't help with the M400 linkage installation much.