winter jobs to do on my noble some advice needed please
winter jobs to do on my noble some advice needed please
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sean j g

Original Poster:

619 posts

246 months

Friday 22nd November 2013
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hi all as per the title after some advice i want to re-seal the floor on my noble over the winter but unfortunately i dont have a ramp so need to lift the car as high as possible of the ground for good access have done a bit of research and there are such things as cribbing blocks that you can use but dont know where i can get these from does anyone know or have any alternate suggestions also what is the best stuff to use to seal the floor thanks in advance for any advice cheers sean.

mgbond

6,749 posts

255 months

Friday 22nd November 2013
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Beat thing to do is drive the car. Don't worry about it.

This is how I did mine. I was lucky as at the time I was in a block of flats and had made friends with some car nut Greeks. They basically did it for me (including tunnel
Mod). Lol






Green3R

400 posts

271 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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Hi Sean,

plan on doing mine over winter- mainly so I have access to modify the gear linkage.
I'm just doing the center section.
Not a tricky job by looks of it, just a bit of effort.

My plan is:

1/ Build some cribs from 4*9 inch blocks. To get the car 12inch off the ground will cost me £60.

Cribbing blocks are available, search RaceRamps in Demon Tweaks. £110+VAT for a pair of foam(!) blocks.

You could probably use axle stands.

2/remove the seats (and therefore the rear harness attatchements)

3/ Drill out the rivets.

4/ Mess with the linkage.

5/ Clean up the chassis.

6/ Paint the inside of the floorpan (though maybe just where it touches the steel chassis.

7/ Neoprene tape on chassis + silicone sealant (slowest cure I can find).

8/ Waxoil into chassis to protect and stop the old rivet ends rattling about.

9/ Rivet floor back on with 4mm stainless closed head rivets. Stainless should be best bet for not setting up anodic corrosion. (ally+steel can cause corrosion though probably of the ally).

Simple. probably.
Also while it's off I'll probably mod the padded tunnel cover so that it clips on rather than bolts incase I want to take it off later.
And maybe drop a cable in front to back just in case I want to wire anything up, say the spare switch.

Metalman

1,173 posts

241 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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It's not a hard job to do but you'll soon get tired of wiggling around under the car, but once it's done you'll find it's well worth the effort. I went over my floor pan with an orbital sander to clean it back to bare alloy, then used a black stone chip both sides then a black rubbery stone shield on the bottom of the pan. It's good because when you fit the stainless screws/rivets they bed into the stone shield and it acts like a rubber seal stopping any water getting in. It's also worth adding some sound deadening to the inside of the pan before you put the carpet back down, makes a huge difference. It's a good time to replace the coolant hoses that run through the tunnel as they can crack, and if your thinking of tracking the car then hoses for the oil cooler and an oil temp/pressure gauge. Get a low profile car creeper (one with trays fitted to the sides for your tools) and some glasses to stop all the scensoredt falling in your eyes.

Good luck!




Green3R

400 posts

271 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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Hi metalman, useful photos. It shows me how little access there is to the tunnel even with the floor off!
Any pictures from directly underneath?

The ramps seem to give enough access so maybe that's the way to go.

Stainless rivets: Can you recall the dimensions you used?

Metalman

1,173 posts

241 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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I used stainless screws as I wanted to be able to remove the pan if ever I needed to. I don't have any photos from directly underneath but as jbliss said it's very tight in the tunnel and even worse when you run two pipes for the front mounted oil cooler. I had the car on four ramps and found it ok, suppose it depends how big your belly is.

D_G

1,900 posts

232 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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What happened to your sump?!

Metalman

1,173 posts

241 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
D_G said:
What happened to your sump?!
Not sure but I have another one to replace it with in the summer. It looks bad in the photo but it's only a small dent when you see it in real life. It's always been there and doesn't cause any problems, but it looks bad and will get swapped over when the weather warms up. Well spotted!

sean j g

Original Poster:

619 posts

246 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
thanks for all your input and advice guys!!
jason where is the best place to source the stainless screws from and what size? im thinking of going down this route so it will be easier if i ever need to remove the floor in the future also what is the best sealer to use and again where is the best place to source it from thanks again for all help and advice.

Metalman

1,173 posts

241 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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The screws I bought were size 8x1/2 (and a few 8x3/4) but I had to open up all the holes a tad, I think to 3mm but please check first as I'm not sure. I got the screws off the internet somewhere, make sure you get a good grade of stainless otherwise they can snap. Screwfix do them but the stainless is a bit soft. I used black tigerseal to seal it, put a bit in each hole in the chassis then a line each side of the rail to stop any water getting in. (Not that the car ever goes out in the rain).

Blu3R

2,380 posts

222 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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Metalman

1,173 posts

241 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
Blu3R said:
What a great idea, not sure id trust them enough to lay under the car though. Four of them would get the car to a good working height.

Blu3R

2,380 posts

222 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
Metalman said:
Blu3R said:
What a great idea, not sure id trust them enough to lay under the car though. Four of them would get the car to a good working height.
You can pin them at different heights like regular axle stands by the look of them.

simonx50

818 posts

183 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
quotequote all
Metalman said:
Not sure but I have another one to replace it with in the summer. It looks bad in the photo but it's only a small dent when you see it in real life. It's always been there and doesn't cause any problems, but it looks bad and will get swapped over when the weather warms up. Well spotted!
Sure you didn't use the jack under it? its not there in the before photo nono

Metalman

1,173 posts

241 months

Saturday 23rd November 2013
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simonx50 said:
Sure you didn't use the jack under it? its not there in the before photo nono
Not that far under no, and not on an aluminium sump! I have a low jack and I always use a piece of wood between the jack and the car on the jacking points in each corner. I have jacked it in the centre but the jack doesn't go under that far, it's a bit odd.

sean j g

Original Poster:

619 posts

246 months

Monday 25th November 2013
quotequote all
ok the car is up on blocks and at a good height so i have started drilling out the rivets so all is going to plan at the moment.
Jason what sort of soundproofing out of interest did you use as it sounds a good idea so going to do this while everything is stripped out also how many tubes of tigerseal did you need thanks again

Edited by sean j g on Monday 25th November 13:46

simonx50

818 posts

183 months

Monday 25th November 2013
quotequote all
sean j g said:
ok the car is up on blocks and at a good height so i have started drilling out the rivets so all is going to plan at the moment.
Jason what sort of soundproofing out of interest did you use as it sounds a good idea so going to do this while everything is stripped out also how many tubes of tigerseal did you need thanks again

Edited by sean j g on Monday 25th November 13:46
Think most use dyno mat I think, might need some carpet spray glue to re fit carpets aswell

Metalman

1,173 posts

241 months

Monday 25th November 2013
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I used a cheaper version of dynamat, just stuck it to the pan then stuck the old underlay on top. Job done! For the complete pan I think I bought two tubes of tigerseal, don't get it on you as it sticks like a mother!

330p4

668 posts

253 months

Tuesday 26th November 2013
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When fixing different metals dip the rivet/screw in Duralac this stops electrolytic corrosion used on aircraft frames and boats about 8 pounds a tin got mine from Elise parts

330p4

668 posts

253 months

Tuesday 26th November 2013
quotequote all
When fixing different metals dip the rivet/screw in Duralac this stops electrolytic corrosion used on aircraft frames and boats about 8 pounds a tin got mine from Elise parts