how can you improve the handling?
Discussion
I fitted adjustable Leda's to mine - lowered the car by approximately 30mm and stiffened up the whole thing, especially the rear to allow a little more power oversteer.
But it didn't make that much difference on the open road, and speed bumps were even more of a nightmare.
A quick look at the angle of the rear struts on the Chimaera tells you that you'll never get it to handle like a 355 - the whole suspension package is just too much of a compromise.
But it didn't make that much difference on the open road, and speed bumps were even more of a nightmare.
A quick look at the angle of the rear struts on the Chimaera tells you that you'll never get it to handle like a 355 - the whole suspension package is just too much of a compromise.
Mines got adjustable Nitros on it and they do seem to make a reasonable difference. It tucks the back end in under braking and keeps the wheels firmly planted on the black stuff. Also it does seem to be less affected by changes in weight shift on cornering / acceleration.
I do agree with spnracing though. It makes an improvement, but dont expect to get huge changes - the suspension is a design that is around 10 years old now. It can be expensive (about £1000 for the dampers) but it does improve things sufficiently to allow later braking and more confident cornering (but then again I am a wuss anyway). However, would stronly recommend looking at the brakes too - mine has these too - and it does mean that later braking (risky as it is) is a viable option and you can actually make good progress...
Also heard from a chap at the TVRCC that has spent a fair fortune on his Griffith that getting someone to really look hard at the suspension setup is worth every penny. Even considering rose-jointed suspension - BUT you will get a tooth shaking / bone rattling ride as a result. However, to quote "it handles like a go-cart". You would be suprised as to the variances on the standard model....
Cheers,
Paul
I do agree with spnracing though. It makes an improvement, but dont expect to get huge changes - the suspension is a design that is around 10 years old now. It can be expensive (about £1000 for the dampers) but it does improve things sufficiently to allow later braking and more confident cornering (but then again I am a wuss anyway). However, would stronly recommend looking at the brakes too - mine has these too - and it does mean that later braking (risky as it is) is a viable option and you can actually make good progress...
Also heard from a chap at the TVRCC that has spent a fair fortune on his Griffith that getting someone to really look hard at the suspension setup is worth every penny. Even considering rose-jointed suspension - BUT you will get a tooth shaking / bone rattling ride as a result. However, to quote "it handles like a go-cart". You would be suprised as to the variances on the standard model....
Cheers,
Paul
Also don't forget that the driver and the way the car is driven has a big big effect on how the car suspension behaves... or so the last couple of instructors have told me... Biggest fault apprently is to apply too much steering input too quickly so that the car is not balanced and the suspension does not have enough time to do what a suspension needs to do.
I am also a great believer in establishing what is wrong with the car's behaviour, look to see if there is anything wrong/worn/broken with the car and then start thinking about what to do. BTW most suspension dvelopment is a compromise. What is great on a track is often terrible on the B4532.
Steve
I am also a great believer in establishing what is wrong with the car's behaviour, look to see if there is anything wrong/worn/broken with the car and then start thinking about what to do. BTW most suspension dvelopment is a compromise. What is great on a track is often terrible on the B4532.
Steve
Admittedly on a Griff, I have Zertec's brakes and suspension (which are Leda's) which have made a huge difference.
Echoing the comments above, the set-up that Andy did was worth it's weight in gold. One corner was out by 5deg's - the car feels very planted, turns when you want to, whilst still compliant.
The shocks have a 24-click range each corner - I'm running 8 front, 6 rear - so there's plenty of room for a stiffer set-up for the track.
Echoing the comments above, the set-up that Andy did was worth it's weight in gold. One corner was out by 5deg's - the car feels very planted, turns when you want to, whilst still compliant.
The shocks have a 24-click range each corner - I'm running 8 front, 6 rear - so there's plenty of room for a stiffer set-up for the track.
quote:
quote:Manek - have you heard anything from Leda yet? Would you still recommend them? How long did you have them fitted before one broke?
Agree with all the above -- I fitted adjustable Ledas too,
cheers,
Craig
I'm still waiting for Leda to deliver new dampers to to Thames Valley Racetech. No word yet on what caused the collapse so it's hard to say what the fault was.
I've only done 1.5 track days since fitting them so it can't be that, and Leda say they've never heard of such a thing happening.
Would I recommend them? Before this episode, yes unreservedly. They make the car feel much more planted (helped as has been mentioned by having the car set up properly by Zertec's expert).
Now though? I honestly don't know what's the fault was. It's too early to point the finger unequivocably at Leda, though the evidence certainly points in their direction. They're going to check if there was anything unusual about the batch from which my dampers came, which should help. Am I pissed off? I should say.
Watch this space...
One other thing to consider before spending money on new dampers etc. is to check the condition of the wishbone bushes. If they are worn, they can affect the handling of the car. Get them replaced and get thrust washers fitted as well. The car will feel much tighter and will handle better.
Jamie.
Jamie.
I have just had AVO adjustable dampers fitted and the difference in handling I feel is quite remarkable.
Much more sure footed under hard braking and the ability to power oversteer feels smoother.
Settings are 8 notches front and 10 at the back.
The real problem has been adjusting for correct height....have had difficulty getting back down to sill clearance of 132mm all round ie adjust back to 145mm and the fronts seem unsettled or not equal.
Have adjusted all to approx 145mm and will allow to settle for a while before adjusting down again.
Any views would be appreciated
Much more sure footed under hard braking and the ability to power oversteer feels smoother.
Settings are 8 notches front and 10 at the back.
The real problem has been adjusting for correct height....have had difficulty getting back down to sill clearance of 132mm all round ie adjust back to 145mm and the fronts seem unsettled or not equal.
Have adjusted all to approx 145mm and will allow to settle for a while before adjusting down again.
Any views would be appreciated
I think that the official ride height settings are +/- a stick of Blackpool rock... Wouldn't worry about being 1 mm accurate as the amount of fuel/beer in the boot/human body parts in the cabin will make a mockery of any such perfection.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
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