Handbrake calliper adjustment
Discussion
I just assembled the RH rear suspension and corresponding brakes. It was not difficult, once you figure out which length bolt goes on where with which washer and everything is now fitted and torqued down to Factory specs.
I have a small problem and resulting question. The pads in the handbrake calliper are very tight on the disc and I can't turn the disc at all. I imagine some adjustment must be made to reduce the pressure on the calliper's piston, but I don't see how except perhaps somewhere around the nut and spring on the side of the calliper. I didn't find any written instructions in the packaging, so before I b*gger up something, I would appreciate some pointers to how solve the problem.

I have a small problem and resulting question. The pads in the handbrake calliper are very tight on the disc and I can't turn the disc at all. I imagine some adjustment must be made to reduce the pressure on the calliper's piston, but I don't see how except perhaps somewhere around the nut and spring on the side of the calliper. I didn't find any written instructions in the packaging, so before I b*gger up something, I would appreciate some pointers to how solve the problem.
As Paul said. There's no adjustment on the calliper itself, it's all on the cables up at the handbrake lever.
The nut you've pictured can be removed and the metal plate "pulled" by the spring rotated, but the increments are too large for it to be used as any kind of fine tuning, so save yourself the bother. I faffed around with the callipers and those rubbish springs for ages (have you had a spring come off yet??), they're not a particularly good design, IMO.
The nut you've pictured can be removed and the metal plate "pulled" by the spring rotated, but the increments are too large for it to be used as any kind of fine tuning, so save yourself the bother. I faffed around with the callipers and those rubbish springs for ages (have you had a spring come off yet??), they're not a particularly good design, IMO.
As mentioned above adjustment can be made at the handbrake lever end of the cable, however if you have already done this and the cables are slack in the off position but the disc is still being held by the pads, you may have operated the lever on the calliper before or during installation which has wound the piston out.
This needs to be wound back in, I managed to borrow a tool to do this.
If I remember correctly there are 2 small holes in the face of the piston that the tool fits into in order to grip the piston as it turns it back.
Hope this helps
Roger
This needs to be wound back in, I managed to borrow a tool to do this.
If I remember correctly there are 2 small holes in the face of the piston that the tool fits into in order to grip the piston as it turns it back.
Hope this helps
Roger
Thanks for the comments and recommendations.
As the pads are very very tight against the disc stopping any rotation of the disc except with the help of a lever, I have probably moved the lever before assembling the calliper onto the hub. As mentioned by Roger the piston has moved out and it looks like I need to screw the piston back in. I'll remove the calliper and pads and have a look inside and locate the holes.
As the pads are very very tight against the disc stopping any rotation of the disc except with the help of a lever, I have probably moved the lever before assembling the calliper onto the hub. As mentioned by Roger the piston has moved out and it looks like I need to screw the piston back in. I'll remove the calliper and pads and have a look inside and locate the holes.
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