Discussion
Right I've had some quotes for tuning work on my S2 - all come about because I had all sorts of running problems which needed a new ECU , so i thought I might as well go the whole 10 yards and get a Unichip mapping done by Paul. He traced an extra fault unfortunately whinc is either a Camshaft lobe or valve seat so they've gotta come out... Specialised engines have recommended a Kent V6T45 camshaft with the following characteristics:
Ford 2.9 V6 Injection V6T45 Sports Injection
2000 - 6000
7.11mm lift
10.08mm Inlet 10.03mm Exhaust
276 Degrees duration
24/72 72/24, 114 Degrees timing
With a ported and polished head... Thing is for another ton I could have a big valve head... Is this £100 worth it ie in normal driving conditions (I use the car as an eveyday not a track special) am I going to get £100 worth of extra grin with bigger valves bearing in mind I've already got the Unichip so can optimise any work done???
Simon
Ford 2.9 V6 Injection V6T45 Sports Injection
2000 - 6000
7.11mm lift
10.08mm Inlet 10.03mm Exhaust
276 Degrees duration
24/72 72/24, 114 Degrees timing
With a ported and polished head... Thing is for another ton I could have a big valve head... Is this £100 worth it ie in normal driving conditions (I use the car as an eveyday not a track special) am I going to get £100 worth of extra grin with bigger valves bearing in mind I've already got the Unichip so can optimise any work done???
Simon
I spent £550 on a big valve head for my mini, and it made quite abit of difference, but then I also had the rest sorted before that.
If you are planning on a cam upgrade and you can afford it I would go with the big valves. But bear in mind that the car will be very different to drive with a fast road unit in it.
I have driven cars with Kent 276s in it. It moves the power band up, starts the car at around 2200 rpm or such like, and gives a lump idle. I run a Piper 285 in my mini and it's pretty difficult to drive in traffic, that's with custom igintion, head, bottom end, twin carbs, and a re geared gear box. If you're going every day driver I would make sure you cvan live with the hotter cam.
If you are planning on a cam upgrade and you can afford it I would go with the big valves. But bear in mind that the car will be very different to drive with a fast road unit in it.
I have driven cars with Kent 276s in it. It moves the power band up, starts the car at around 2200 rpm or such like, and gives a lump idle. I run a Piper 285 in my mini and it's pretty difficult to drive in traffic, that's with custom igintion, head, bottom end, twin carbs, and a re geared gear box. If you're going every day driver I would make sure you cvan live with the hotter cam.
WildfireS3 said:
If you're going every day driver I would make sure you cvan live with the hotter cam.
The guy reckons this cam wouldn't make much of a difference to the 'driveability' of the car as the last thing I want is to have a cammy S at my age! I'm just after as much efficiency from the engine as possible and mayching the characteristics to that of a little light car rather than a caravan towing monster granada. Anyone got the original cam settings for the car so I can compare?
If you put a hotter cam in an engine you will get a performance increase, but obviously not as much as if you port the heads as well as you will be increasing the breathing capabilities of the engine. Obvioussly the higher you go with cams the more critical it becomes to increase the breathing on the engine as it will require more air/fuel to get the most from the car.
It all comes down to money. Also hotter cam = more fuel used, especially as you tend to try and keep it in the power band.
It all comes down to money. Also hotter cam = more fuel used, especially as you tend to try and keep it in the power band.
WildfireS3 said:
If you put a hotter cam in an engine you will get a performance increase, but obviously not as much as if you port the heads as well as you will be increasing the breathing capabilities of the engine. Obvioussly the higher you go with cams the more critical it becomes to increase the breathing on the engine as it will require more air/fuel to get the most from the car.
It all comes down to money. Also hotter cam = more fuel used, especially as you tend to try and keep it in the power band.
OK.... So is it worth getting the heads ported and polished with big valves without doing the camshaft? What I'm basically after is an efficient but still highly driveable car bearing in mind I do a lot of city driving. I wouldn't mind a bit more power though but not at the expense of too much of the 'relatively cheap' everyday running costs of the V6... And the heads definately need to be sorted because of this valve seat damage.
Yep. About right. You could probably go for a 266 Duration cam without any serious repercussions. Bear in mind that the torque on the V6 is great so the car may still be perfectly driveable at the lower rpm range, just that the torque may not be as much as the std cam before the powerband.
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