4 core rad.. where to get the core?

[TVR Beaver]

Does anyone know who supplies a 4 core for our std rad's? and are they best in-line or staggered?... I had one fitted before but the place who did it has gone now....

I've had a 3 core in all summer (as well as moving the inlet pipe down) and its not losing heat like it used to so I'm re-doing it to 4 core as well as re-jigging the pipe........

thread here from earlier in the year http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[Hoover.]

I had mine recored at Harts Radiators in Hertford, albeit it was a 3 core which if I believe the bloke is a very efficient design and is as good a 4 core..... I've not had any heating issues

[TVR Beaver]

Thats what the guy assured me, but its not working as good as the old 4 core one... unless it is the pipe move thats done it but I'm not sure why?

[EGB]

Any pics to show the difference between 3 & 4 core rad. Thanks.

Edited by EGB on Sunday 1st December 20:40

[roseytvr]

Hoover. said:

I had mine recored at Harts Radiators in Hertford, albeit it was a 3 core which if I believe the bloke is a very efficient design and is as good a 4 core..... I've not had any heating issues

+1 - if anything mine is now running too cold. I thought OEM was two core, are you sure 4 core will fit? 3 core should be more than enough IMO

[TVR Beaver]

How can they run too cold? That's what the stat is for. I run a 82 so the coldest you should see is about 78 as the stat would fully shut off the rad

Std is 3 upgrade to 4. But think the pipe move may add to the problem?

[TVR Beaver]

No pics of the 3 or 4 that you could see the differance. They both look the same from the outside.

[carsy]

Strange you have a problem John. I have the moved inlet pipe and 3 core and iirc the guy told me although only 3 core it had more runs going across the radiator than the 4 core as they were a lot closer together, equalling more surface area. When i got it back they were noticeably closer together.

[TVR Beaver]

I know what your saying.. but it appears to retain heat now (may be due to the rows being closer together?)... if it steps up to 88 say.. it takes ages to get back down to it's normal 82 position? (in temps over 20 deg or so)... where as the last one would take some time but nothing like as long as it does now?... put the fans on and it comes back down so has it lost air flow???
and you were reporting 80 mph running temps of 90 coming back from the Growl .. I'd not like that

[carsy]

Ye, as soon as i got back i knocked up a splitter from the usual guttering. Made a huge difference, especially in the time needed to get the temp down after its been stood a while, its now almost instant as soon as you start moving.

[TVR Beaver]

Instant?.. even before It took a few miles for it to drop back after getting in traffic and I've always had a splitter...

[EGB]

This is my set up and it works ok. Probably original. Once last summer on a hot day I removed the number plate, just two self tappers. What a difference for cooling. On B road fans took ages to come on compared to previous. Joined the motorway at 80 and noticed the bonnet beginning to lift due to extra air blowing through the rad into engine bay helping the cooling. No panic Mr. Mainwaring, (Dad's Army) Anyway pulled onto hard shoulder and fixed the bonnet into it's release catch. This has never happened before even when uncatched,silly me, but shows how much extra air will blow through the rad if number plate is removed. Thinking about using an E Type stick on bonnet number plate or a proper splitter in future.

Edited by EGB on Monday 2nd December 17:10

[TVR Beaver]

this was / is mine....

[EGB]

Seems from John's post that a new rad with the inlet at the very top left edge of rad, 3 or 4 core, is the one to go for. New ally rads are popular. Do they have the inlet at the top like my present one and John's old one. Anybody in the know where we can get these with the correct inlet position spec?

[TVR Beaver]

No.. they are all at the top LHS... The first pic is the old rad... but when you put the rubber pipe onto the rad stub it closes off the air pipe too much... The second is the new set up.. it addresses and cures that problem... but now it's not cooling as well

[phazed]

Why not put the outlet back to the normal position and turn it down with an elbow?

[TVR Beaver]

yes.. thats what I'm going to do... but I don't think they can re-use the core so it will have to be another new one... so wanted to go back to 4 core

[EGB]

TVR Beaver said:

No.. they are all at the top LHS... The first pic is the old rad... but when you put the rubber pipe onto the rad stub it closes off the air pipe too much... The second is the new set up.. it addresses and cures that problem... but now it's not cooling as well

Point taken. However my (tatty original,?) inlet air pipe is no problem see pic. Perhaps yours (non original?)needs to have it's bend kink moved forward a tad to coinside with the hot water entry pipe bend which also appears to have some extra sleaveing compared to mine. The inlet air pipe may be slightly too long and needs to have a bit cut off the filter end,or the filter assembly moved forward a tad.

[TVR Beaver]

yes, I know what you mean, but this is how it comes from ACT and is located by it's fitment onto the filter housing... you can move it up and down a bit, but not where it matters.
I too had the cori hose on before, but to get above 315 BHP you need a smooth bore

[TVR Beaver]

That’s interesting... Just pulled the rad and put it against another old one I bought for the end cap it needs be....
The bottom one is the one I’ve been running and the top one I think a std unit....
The std unit has 29 rows, 3 deep and in-line.... Mine has 39 rows, 3 deep and staggered...

Is it possible it’s just too good and is not allowing air to flow through it because of the silly angle it sits at in the Griff and the limited inlet for air?
As I said before, put the fans on and it drags it back down no problem... but it normal running where it does not lose the heat that’s the issue.... Guess that could be it... it’s just too dense to allow enough air through it.... Probably would work fine on a Chimp etc as they are straight up?

Would be interested to know how many rows other people have?....