What would you use to coat bare metal?

[DeanR32]

Evening all

I'm about to start rubbing down and coating my BMW where it needs it and give it a rust proof coat. Ideally one that can stay on when it comes to prepping and final painting.

What have you used in the past? I don't fancy revisiting treated metal in the near future and I'll prep the metal as best I can so it doesn't return, but I am a little worried about getting any tiny bits of rust in any pitted metal I might come across. What can be done with that? I've heard of these rust converter things but can they actually work? Just seems to me, once rust is there, it's there and it'll come back one day!

Cheers guys

[Gareth9702]

Look at the Loctite range. I am currently restoring a motorcycle frame and Loctite appears to be working. It dries to a powdery feel which is easy to rub down for final painting.

[Rubin215]

I have had good results with Isopon Zinc 182.

It's just a zinc primer, but it actually seems to work. I now have some stuff that was done over ten years ago and hasn't come back.

[retropower]

You should really use an etch primer of some sort on bare metal.

We use Max Meyer Ecophos (can't remember the part number)

[DeanR32]

Thanks for the replies lads

I'll look into these product ranges. I'll also update once I've made some sort of progress.

Any other products I could look in to?

Cheers

[TurboBlue]

I've used this and would recommend it

http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/elec...

Zinc based primer to apply to bare metal and rubbed down to a smooth finish for painting.

[Evoluzione]

Clean metal = Etch primer, Tetrosyl is one of the best, but only if the car is kept indoors.
Previously rusty metal? Well you're taking a risk, (cutting out and replacement is better), but most rust converters are ok. How long will they last though?

[460dave]

Are you looking at a rattle can or do you have acces to air and a paint gun ?
If you do then you cant go wrong with Lechler 29107 Epoxy sealer.

But it is 2k, read the data sheets

[Jammez]

Have a look at the POR15 primer - seriously good stuff, seems to stick even better to rusty stuff. Have painted the underneath of my TR7 with it & they don't get much rustier than a 1970's British Leyland car!

[DeanR32]

Thanks again guys

I'll be cutting the rust out of course, but I want something to coat what I get back bright.

My car has had brand new panels out on, but this was 15 years ago and they were left bare (as in just the black coat new panels come with). The front panel is still fully solid, but is coated in rust that once rubbed back, I reckon it'll leave a few pitted areas, although it will come up nice and bright.

I was pointed in the direction of POR 15 by a mate but can that be painted over? I'm looking for something to prevent rust until the cars ready for paint.

I don't have access to a compressor so I'm thinking aerosols, but they do seem pretty expensive for what they'll cover!

[itiejim]

I just had my Alfa 105 shell blasted and had the same conundrum. After a bit of research I settled on epoxy mastic 121 as it seems have very good results in all of the tests and reviews I can find and is non-porus and easy to paint over. It's gone on really nicely, far too early to tell whether it's actually as good as they say though (I have no intention of sitting it in a vat of salt water to test any further)...

http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/28117/epox...

[retropower]

Epoxy stuff is all well and good, but it isn't sealed and non-porous once its been sanded through during body prep.

The coating following blasting is more or less temporary as it will receive a lot of work during body prep.

We use an economic zinc phosphate primer over the blasted shell, then do all the prep, then coat any bare metal areas left after prep with the max meyer ecophos etch primer.

We're actually working on a car now that was painted with epoxy primer following metalwork, and to be honest it just takes longer to sand it all off again (bear in mind any filler used needs to go on bare metal, it can't go onto the epoxy)

[retropower]

Jammez said:

Have a look at the POR15 primer - seriously good stuff, seems to stick even better to rusty stuff. Have painted the underneath of my TR7 with it & they don't get much rustier than a 1970's British Leyland car!

painting anything over rusty stuff just results in it coming through again later, a waste of paint!

[DeanR32]

Thanks for the replies yet again.

I'll look into the zinc phosphate primer as a temp coat. The car will be inside, but I was worried about how long the coat would keep the bare metal rust free. Although I suppose it doesn't matter as it'll pretty much all come off when prepping for paint anyway!

I've got Retro Rides in front of me right now and been reading the piece on the Mk1 arches in there. It's made me mad keen to get stuck in to mine now!

[itiejim]

retropower said:

Epoxy stuff is all well and good, but it isn't sealed and non-porous once its been sanded through during body prep.

The coating following blasting is more or less temporary as it will receive a lot of work during body prep.

We use an economic zinc phosphate primer over the blasted shell, then do all the prep, then coat any bare metal areas left after prep with the max meyer ecophos etch primer.

We're actually working on a car now that was painted with epoxy primer following metalwork, and to be honest it just takes longer to sand it all off again (bear in mind any filler used needs to go on bare metal, it can't go onto the epoxy)

Depends how you're working though. I wanted something which would seal the car whilst I build up the suspension, engine, brake lines, loom etc. It might be a year before I look to prepare and paint the outside of the shell. The inside, wheel arches, engine bay etc I did immediately over the top of the epoxy.

[DeanR32]

See, this was my dilemma. I'd be doing the body at my novice pace, so the body would take a few months for me so I wanted something it could sit in for months at a time.

Would the zinc phosphate primer last as long as I'd need it to?

[460dave]

itiejim said:

retropower said:

Epoxy stuff is all well and good, but it isn't sealed and non-porous once its been sanded through during body prep.

The coating following blasting is more or less temporary as it will receive a lot of work during body prep.

We use an economic zinc phosphate primer over the blasted shell, then do all the prep, then coat any bare metal areas left after prep with the max meyer ecophos etch primer.

We're actually working on a car now that was painted with epoxy primer following metalwork, and to be honest it just takes longer to sand it all off again (bear in mind any filler used needs to go on bare metal, it can't go onto the epoxy)

Depends how you're working though. I wanted something which would seal the car whilst I build up the suspension, engine, brake lines, loom etc. It might be a year before I look to prepare and paint the outside of the shell. The inside, wheel arches, engine bay etc I did immediately over the top of the epoxy.

We tend to have quite a few hospital jobs where payment is made when and where it can be afforded, so the Lechler comes into its own here. It can be left for long periods and has excellent anti-corrosion properties, if the customer can’t afford to complete all in one go. And yes, the epoxy has to be recut if stood for a period of time, but that goes for any medium if left stood.

We also use the epoxy then flash off or dry to spec then coat with high build or whatever we are using for that particular jobbie.

If you find something you are happy with and it works I would go for that, usually turns out to be the right choice, but take your time, have a go, it will be worth it in the end.

[Cpeaco]

Most primers will draw in damp over time if left without a top coat, Best solution if your doing a lot of repairs over a long period of time is to spray over the repaired areas with a mist coat of 1k gloss this will protect the repaired areas until your ready to apply your finished primer and top coats,

[Cpeaco]

Most primers will draw in damp over time if left without a top coat, Best solution if your doing a lot of repairs over a long period of time is to spray over the repaired areas with a mist coat of 1k gloss this will protect the repaired areas until your ready to apply your finished primer and top coats,

[52classic]

This is always a problem with DIY restoration. Undertake a repair today and then you can't return to it for a few weeks.
Best solution I have found is a product called 'Anti corrosion wash primer' comes in a VW branded tin No. ALN00200310. At the end of the day I brush or better still roller it on and it appears to hold back any new corrosion 'til you're ready to return to the job. Accepts a wipe of filler or stopper, flats OK and then a 2 pack primer.