Bell housing/starter removal

[Dickie Dastardly]

In the throws of removing the bell housing which involves removing the starter motor cap screws. The gearbox is out but the top cap screw on the starter motor which locates into the bell housing is seized solid. I've removed the coil pack to improve access, have soaked in release oil, had both a 3/8" & 1/2" drive hex sockets and power bars on it but it will not budge. Access is awkward, heat not advisable and an impact driver not practical.

Any suggestions or anyone had a similar issue?

Cheers
Richard

[nawarne]

Richard,
That sound's a bh, I feel your pain!! I've had my starter motor off twice, after the first time I copper greased the cap screws.

I know it is restricted access, but could you weld a short M8 (M10 maybe) bolt to the offending capscrew head to 'distance' the point where you're applying force (impact gun)?

All I can think of at the moment.
Nick

[Dickie Dastardly]

nawarne said:

Richard,
That sound's a bh, I feel your pain!! I've had my starter motor off twice, after the first time I copper greased the cap screws.

I know it is restricted access, but could you weld a short M8 (M10 maybe) bolt to the offending capscrew head to 'distance' the point where you're applying force (impact gun)?

All I can think of at the moment.
Nick

Thanks Nick,

Managed to get it out yesterday, it was pretty much solid the whole way - took 15mins and turnabout with a mate. Some of the bell housing alloy threads came away with the cap screw which exasperated the situation.
Anyway out now and the cap screw and housing threads have cleaned up nicely with a tap & dia.

Cheers

[nawarne]

Good news!

The issue with steel fasteners into an aluminium thread is an issue on these engines.
Thread (no pun intended!) some months ago regarding undoing the cap screws on the pedestal bearing on the jack shaft for the alternator/power steering pump belt drive. Same problem, differential corrosion causing the fasteners to rust into the threads.

Nick