Scrap gearboxes - what to keep?
Discussion
I have two LT95 gearboxes at the side of the house, both of which are unserviceable without major overhaul. Added to that, they fit a limited range of vehicles (principally a number of V8 Land/Range Rover variants from the 70s/80s) and are not particularly sought after or valuable.
So I think I need to weigh them in - although that will only buy me a few beers, scrap values are poor. Before I do, I'll remove anything which might be useful/valuable in future (I have a Landie with this 'box fitted). So, I'm thinking:
- all switches (reverse light, difflock)
- UJ from the rear of one
- difflock actuators (these ARE rare as spares and expensive)
- covers where there are fill/drain holes which could be cross-threaded in future
- the top cover with the gearstick - apparently these can crack
Anything else? Is it. for example, worth me removing the selectors (again, for spares?). Or the final drive gears (these are interchangeable and come in 5-6 flavours).
I confess to hoarder tendencies and hate throwing away anything which could be useful, but OTOH these things weigh around 150kg each and they're bulky and getting in the way!
So I think I need to weigh them in - although that will only buy me a few beers, scrap values are poor. Before I do, I'll remove anything which might be useful/valuable in future (I have a Landie with this 'box fitted). So, I'm thinking:
- all switches (reverse light, difflock)
- UJ from the rear of one
- difflock actuators (these ARE rare as spares and expensive)
- covers where there are fill/drain holes which could be cross-threaded in future
- the top cover with the gearstick - apparently these can crack
Anything else? Is it. for example, worth me removing the selectors (again, for spares?). Or the final drive gears (these are interchangeable and come in 5-6 flavours).
I confess to hoarder tendencies and hate throwing away anything which could be useful, but OTOH these things weigh around 150kg each and they're bulky and getting in the way!
The most common fault is failed layshaft bearings - and that's a COMPLETE strip to replace (properly, as in checking preloads etc). Thing is, you can often pick them up cheaply on eBay on good order - the one in my truck now cost me £50 - so I doubt anyone will pay more than scrap for a knackered one anyway!
Got one sitting in my back garden in unknown condition removed from a comp safari racer with a blown engine.
Parts are getting hard to find so will probably throw it on ebay and see what it reaches.
It will cost me less than the fuel to get to the scrap yard.
A shame as they are a bloody strong gearbox.
Parts are getting hard to find so will probably throw it on ebay and see what it reaches.
It will cost me less than the fuel to get to the scrap yard.
A shame as they are a bloody strong gearbox.
HustleRussell said:
Grind the input shaft off of one of them. Bingo, DIY clutch plate alignment tool.
Great idea!@Skyrover - you do see a lot on there which are in "unknown condition" I bought two - first was 10 times worse than the one I took out, second was great and is in the truck now. I was dead lucky - both of them had a Fairey overdrive fitted. I paid £130 for the first one and £50 for the second one, then sold the spare OD unit for £190, so I got my replacement box free, notwithstanding the blood, sweat, pain and tears involved in changing it three times entirely on my own, on the drive, not on a lift or over a pit! (Yes, three, it had to come out a third time as the front oil pump gasket was leaking). I got quite good at it in the end!!
CAPP0 said:
HustleRussell said:
Grind the input shaft off of one of them. Bingo, DIY clutch plate alignment tool.
Great idea!@Skyrover - you do see a lot on there which are in "unknown condition" I bought two - first was 10 times worse than the one I took out, second was great and is in the truck now. I was dead lucky - both of them had a Fairey overdrive fitted. I paid £130 for the first one and £50 for the second one, then sold the spare OD unit for £190, so I got my replacement box free, notwithstanding the blood, sweat, pain and tears involved in changing it three times entirely on my own, on the drive, not on a lift or over a pit! (Yes, three, it had to come out a third time as the front oil pump gasket was leaking). I got quite good at it in the end!!
Krikkit said:
CAPP0 said:
HustleRussell said:
Grind the input shaft off of one of them. Bingo, DIY clutch plate alignment tool.
Great idea!@Skyrover - you do see a lot on there which are in "unknown condition" I bought two - first was 10 times worse than the one I took out, second was great and is in the truck now. I was dead lucky - both of them had a Fairey overdrive fitted. I paid £130 for the first one and £50 for the second one, then sold the spare OD unit for £190, so I got my replacement box free, notwithstanding the blood, sweat, pain and tears involved in changing it three times entirely on my own, on the drive, not on a lift or over a pit! (Yes, three, it had to come out a third time as the front oil pump gasket was leaking). I got quite good at it in the end!!
Congrats on the overdrive though, you must have been tickled pink.
Edited by skyrover on Tuesday 10th December 19:19
skyrover said:
Krikkit said:
CAPP0 said:
HustleRussell said:
Grind the input shaft off of one of them. Bingo, DIY clutch plate alignment tool.
Great idea!@Skyrover - you do see a lot on there which are in "unknown condition" I bought two - first was 10 times worse than the one I took out, second was great and is in the truck now. I was dead lucky - both of them had a Fairey overdrive fitted. I paid £130 for the first one and £50 for the second one, then sold the spare OD unit for £190, so I got my replacement box free, notwithstanding the blood, sweat, pain and tears involved in changing it three times entirely on my own, on the drive, not on a lift or over a pit! (Yes, three, it had to come out a third time as the front oil pump gasket was leaking). I got quite good at it in the end!!
Congrats on the overdrive though, you must have been tickled pink.
Edited by skyrover on Tuesday 10th December 19:19
It is a fight though - worst bit is getting the box and engine aligned straight enough to slide the box on, because the weight of the box is all at the back and you need to adjust the lift point fore & aft until it works. Once the input shaft is into the clutch, lying underneath on your back with your head at the rear and pushing with your feet sends it home (you can't do this from above because the hoist wheels are sideways-on to the engine/box, so it won't slide with all that weight on it).
The first time I actually took the engine out as well (after the box was out) because I wanted to helocoil some of the exhaust manifold bolt-holes, so I put it all back in as one lump, but that too was "interesting" - not sure how much an RV8 and an LT95 weigh combined but must be at least a quarter of a tonne! Second and third time the box came out & went in on it's own.
* Powerful PH Director 
B'stard Child said:
Split them and segregate alloy from steel before weighing in
Mixed metals gives a rubbish return on scrap - segregation makes a huge difference
i thought about this - can't decide whether it's worth the aggro or not. Local scrap metal yard quoted me 9p/kg for steel (or mixed) and 50p/kg for alu, I need to work out whether breaking it up is going to nett me an extra £50 or an extra £5! (I suspect that's actually more like an extra 50p or an extra 5p!)Mixed metals gives a rubbish return on scrap - segregation makes a huge difference
CAPP0 said:
i thought about this - can't decide whether it's worth the aggro or not. Local scrap metal yard quoted me 9p/kg for steel (or mixed) and 50p/kg for alu, I need to work out whether breaking it up is going to nett me an extra £50 or an extra £5! (I suspect that's actually more like an extra 50p or an extra 5p!)
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