ACT Air induction
Discussion
tvrmallorca said:
has anyone had experience with ACT air induction hoses. I was thinking of upgrading to the K&N version on my 1994 chimaera.
Any comments greatly appreciated.
I've just fitted one. It was a bit of a faff to get fitted as you need to fit, measure up how much to chop off, remove, cut, refit and repeat several times until it fits properly! Also, the foil heatshield isn't really long enough, so you'd benefit from finding a long one, but once it's fitted it looks very good and performs much better than the standard tumble drier hose. Any comments greatly appreciated.
When I fitted mine I also had an MC1 cam, ACT carbon superflare trumpets and thermal gasket fitted, so I can’t comment on how the induction hose kit benefited the car, but the most noticeable difference is how smooth it is now. No shunting, nice steady idle and very easy to drive at slower speeds. I’m sure the smooth pipe with heatshielding and the smooth silicone elbow helps with increased performance too. For the money it’s well worth going for.
ETA: I bought this lot....
http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ti008d-chimaera-...
http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ti001a-silicone-...
http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ti022b-superflar...
I found this thread useful as a guide...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=124...
Edited by zed4 on Thursday 12th December 10:11
As above, it is a bit of a PIA to get in. The worse part is getting it through the hole in the bulkhead. I found that a little filing of the aperture facilitated pushing the hose through. The next stage is cutting it to size. You're better to do several smaller cuts and get it right, as opposed to a couple of larger cuts and cut it too short!
You will find that silicone spray will help lubricate the rubber when pushing in the fittings, plus, heating the rubber in warm water will make it more workable.
Finally, I purchased some heat shielding off Ebay and wrapped the whole system. I sealed it with aluminium tape.
As for shunting, it hasn't done a single thing to help it!!!
You will find that silicone spray will help lubricate the rubber when pushing in the fittings, plus, heating the rubber in warm water will make it more workable.
Finally, I purchased some heat shielding off Ebay and wrapped the whole system. I sealed it with aluminium tape.
As for shunting, it hasn't done a single thing to help it!!!
Chuffmeister said:
As above, it is a bit of a PIA to get in. The worse part is getting it through the hole in the bulkhead. I found that a little filing of the aperture facilitated pushing the hose through. The next stage is cutting it to size. You're better to do several smaller cuts and get it right, as opposed to a couple of larger cuts and cut it too short!
You will find that silicone spray will help lubricate the rubber when pushing in the fittings, plus, heating the rubber in warm water will make it more workable.
Finally, I purchased some heat shielding off Ebay and wrapped the whole system. I sealed it with aluminium tape.
As for shunting, it hasn't done a single thing to help it!!!
Umm, I didn't put the actual hose through the aperture, I don't think the OP of the other thread I linked to did either. I think the instructions suggest doing so, but I didn’t see the point. I simply jubilee clipped the metal tube to the right angled hose and pushed the metal tube through the aperture, not the rubber hose. I then pushed the long hose in the engine bay onto the metal tube that was protruding through the hole in the bulkhead. So the two hoses butt up against the bulkhead, but neither actually go through the hole, just the metal tube. You will find that silicone spray will help lubricate the rubber when pushing in the fittings, plus, heating the rubber in warm water will make it more workable.
Finally, I purchased some heat shielding off Ebay and wrapped the whole system. I sealed it with aluminium tape.
As for shunting, it hasn't done a single thing to help it!!!
There was no way the rubber hose would go through the bulkhead on mine, it was way too small, but it was a perfect fit for the metal tube.
Like this:
Changed mine a couple of months ago and beware of air blocks.
Just phoned Power to have mine in as before installing the silicone hoses and induction unit my heater was very hot,so hot the gear knob would be extremely hot.
Also my temperature gauge would start moving within a few minutes and on a drive without stop start would sit around 70. Now no movement for 15 mins and hits about 55-60 max unless I hit traffic. I now have some warm air but not anywhere what it was before changing.
I have read the threads regarding the method to solve the problem but i'm a TVR owner that only has limited tool kit,no axle stands,no funnel no knowledge
So Power hopefully will come to my aid.
Just phoned Power to have mine in as before installing the silicone hoses and induction unit my heater was very hot,so hot the gear knob would be extremely hot.
Also my temperature gauge would start moving within a few minutes and on a drive without stop start would sit around 70. Now no movement for 15 mins and hits about 55-60 max unless I hit traffic. I now have some warm air but not anywhere what it was before changing.
I have read the threads regarding the method to solve the problem but i'm a TVR owner that only has limited tool kit,no axle stands,no funnel no knowledge
So Power hopefully will come to my aid. If you have a later car i would terminate in this position ..less bends ,less restriction .A straight piece off the metal sleeve through the bulk head would do the job .
Maybe ACT would sell you the plenum bend ,the piece in the engine bay then another straight piece .
Maybe ACT would sell you the plenum bend ,the piece in the engine bay then another straight piece .
Edited by SILICONEKID346HP on Thursday 12th December 17:11
SILICONEKID346HP said:
If you have a later car i would terminate in this position ..less bends ,less restriction .A straight piece off the metal sleeve through the bulk head would do the job .
Maybe ACT would sell you the plenum bend ,the piece in the engine bay then another straight piece .
That's interesting. Might mod mine to fit like that. Maybe ACT would sell you the plenum bend ,the piece in the engine bay then another straight piece .
Edited by SILICONEKID346HP on Thursday 12th December 17:11
TVRJAS said:
Changed mine a couple of months ago and beware of air blocks.
Just phoned Power to have mine in as before installing the silicone hoses and induction unit my heater was very hot,so hot the gear knob would be extremely hot.
Also my temperature gauge would start moving within a few minutes and on a drive without stop start would sit around 70. Now no movement for 15 mins and hits about 55-60 max unless I hit traffic. I now have some warm air but not anywhere what it was before changing.
I have read the threads regarding the method to solve the problem but i'm a TVR owner that only has limited tool kit,no axle stands,no funnel no knowledge So Power hopefully will come to my aid.
I'm a little lost Jason… :scratch chin: Are you getting the induction and cooling confused? Sounds like you have an airlock and the usual inaccurate water temp issues, however, the induction kit is fairly straight forward and doesn't interfere with the cooling system. Just phoned Power to have mine in as before installing the silicone hoses and induction unit my heater was very hot,so hot the gear knob would be extremely hot.
Also my temperature gauge would start moving within a few minutes and on a drive without stop start would sit around 70. Now no movement for 15 mins and hits about 55-60 max unless I hit traffic. I now have some warm air but not anywhere what it was before changing.
I have read the threads regarding the method to solve the problem but i'm a TVR owner that only has limited tool kit,no axle stands,no funnel no knowledge
So Power hopefully will come to my aid. Chuffmeister said:
I'm a little lost Jason… :scratch chin: Are you getting the induction and cooling confused? Sounds like you have an airlock and the usual inaccurate water temp issues, however, the induction kit is fairly straight forward and doesn't interfere with the cooling system.
I changed Induction and silicone hoses at the same time was my problem. So if OP is only changing the Induction it won't be a problem.I read the OP a bit fast
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