Rebuild tips, tricks, ideas, must do's list.

[Gingerbread Man]

Right, I'm hoping to pick the brains of the people who have built, rebuilt, or just know their cars inside out!

I'm rebuilding my 7 as many of you have before. I'm rebuilding it then shipping it overseas to Oz, so I'm trying to take advantage of what is best to do on UK soil before it's thousands of miles away, away from it's home land, although there is a Caterham dealer in Melbourne, I can see it all being easier here. It's going to be stripped back to the chassis, re-power coated and then repaneled.

It's a 1999 VVC car. De Dion rear.


So far on my list of things to do;

• Fit an oil pressure warning light.

• Carry out the fuel filler mod along with a new aero filler.

• Change speedometer to KPH default with MPH secondary (mine has no KPH as standard).

• Fit a new fuel filter.

• New fluids throughout - engine, gearbox, diff, brakes etc.

• Grease where needed.

• Waxoyl (or similar) the hell out of it after it comes back from reshelling. (seems to be a discussion on Blatchat about the grot traps at the moment without a real answer).

• Remove heater.

• Wire redundant heater switch as cooling fan override.

• Install 6 point harness/ crutch straps (currently a 4 point setup).

• Install lightened flywheel.

• Power coat the inside of all the panels before fitting.

• Duralac the joint like they used to back in the day so Arch lets on.

• Refresh the 6 speed gearbox.

• I might fit a Titan LSD when I drop the gearbox off at Road and Race. I hear it's a night and day difference and worth the £££.

• Refresh Bilsteins all round.

• I'm thinking of replacing all the bushes. They're 43K miles old now and 14 years old. This would be the time to do it as everything will be disassembled. I know a man with a press. What one's are recommended as I know with some cars poly bushing it can be too firm in places for example. Mixed reviews if to do it after powder coating or before and powder coat. with them in.

• My car currently never gets overly hot in the foot wells. Nothing like some of the stories about burning feet anyhow. In it's new home it will be warmer most of the time. I'm toying with the idea of insulating the foots wells in the engine bay while I can get to them easily.

Please add your thoughts and worthwhile mods which are worth carrying out while it's in pieces.

[Aeroscreens]

Sorry, feeling too lazy to type anything out in full, but I documented my rebuild here. Hope this gives you some further ideas.....

[Gingerbread Man]

Aeroscreens said:

Sorry, feeling too lazy to type anything out in full, but I documented my rebuild here. Hope this gives you some further ideas.....

Not a problem, just want to make it all spot on. I'll get reading.

[Orange Blackbird]

I would stick to using new metalastic bushes all round. Not sure what your set up is but there are basically small bushes and large ones. If I remember but worth checking you will need 6 large, 2 small for front suspension, if you have Watts linkage then 8 small for the links plus 2 large for the A frame. I got my wishbones and rear suspension powder coated after removing the old bushes.

You say you are powder coating the panels inside? You can get sheet that is powder coated on one side I believe. I think that putting all the wiring in split flexible conduit, as long as it is in good condition is worth doing, looks neater and protects it. Replace any cheap yellow/blue/red connectors with decent ones, I.e. Non insulated crimps plus clear separate covers.

Get the diff oil seals replaced by Road & Race Transmissions, they can fit the Titan if you want one.

Nick

[Dave J]

uprate prop joints

replace fuel lines with ethanol rated

replace fuel tank mount material

update front hubs and stubs

replace steering bushes and joint

add prop guard to chassis

add cage mounts to chassis in case you ever want to add a full cage

seal cockpit floor with silicon before you start rebuild

[George 54]

You might think seriously about installing the original lap sash seat belts . As a 4 or 6 point belts will not be recognised or accepted for registration here . You possible could refit the 6 point after it has passed registration .

[Gingerbread Man]

Dave J said:

uprate prop joints

replace fuel lines with ethanol rated

replace fuel tank mount material

update front hubs and stubs

replace steering bushes and joint

add prop guard to chassis

add cage mounts to chassis in case you ever want to add a full cage

seal cockpit floor with silicon before you start rebuild

Where are these uprated prop joints you talk of?

I'd planned on replacing all hoses, fuel lines etc.

I need to look at the fuel tank when out as it may have a slight weep. There is a smell once filled up from that area.

Prop guard, is this a recommended safety mod?

Not planning on a full cage.

Why do you suggest sealing the floor wells? I've currently got some small holes drilled in them to allow water to get out!

[Gingerbread Man]

George 54 said:

You might think seriously about installing the original lap sash seat belts . As a 4 or 6 point belts will not be recognised or accepted for registration here . You possible could refit the 6 point after it has passed registration .

Thanks. I'm investigating this. It won't be hard to install. But will be annoying as I'll never use them! But if needs must. Thanks for the heads up.

Right, researched. A harness is allowed but 4 point max and it has to have a seat belt push button type buckle.

All daft but that's the bottom line.

Edited by Gingerbread Man on Monday 16th December 22:53

[Gingerbread Man]

Orange Blackbird said:

I would stick to using new metalastic bushes all round. Not sure what your set up is but there are basically small bushes and large ones. If I remember but worth checking you will need 6 large, 2 small for front suspension, if you have Watts linkage then 8 small for the links plus 2 large for the A frame. I got my wishbones and rear suspension powder coated after removing the old bushes.

You say you are powder coating the panels inside? You can get sheet that is powder coated on one side I believe. I think that putting all the wiring in split flexible conduit, as long as it is in good condition is worth doing, looks neater and protects it. Replace any cheap yellow/blue/red connectors with decent ones, I.e. Non insulated crimps plus clear separate covers.

Get the diff oil seals replaced by Road & Race Transmissions, they can fit the Titan if you want one.

Nick

You can buy a bush set for the 7 for a few hundred pounds I think. This was my plan, do them all. I can't find much in regards to what ones to go for on here, Google or Blatchat.

Any new wiring by me has heatshrink and the works.

Although on the electronics side, I do though have a shift light from a L7C bulk buy which has never worked for me. Well, I have two actually. It sits on my dash as I have made a slight hole for the cable. It'll have to come off for the respray, but it'd be nice to have it working as opposed to laying dormant.

I also plan to rerun the fuel sender wiring as it's patchy at best. Depending on how much weight is in the boot also seems to make a difference to if it is likely to work or not.


In regards to powder coating the panels. Arch was going to powdercoat them before fitting them to the 7.


Thanks so far guys, keep them coming.

[Orange Blackbird]

Give Mick at Redline a call if you want bushes he can sort you out. Think mine were about £150.

Nick

[TubbyNorman]

Don't get my son spending too much or he'll start on my credit card