TVR M series Front stub axle

[prideaux]

Hi thinking ahead I was wondering if anyone has any experience of fitting uprated front stub axles on there M series.
Canley Classics do uprated stub axle kits that change the bearings to two large bearings and remove the need for the felt backing.
Two Questions
Firstly will they fit on the M series and which kit should you order
Secondly what are the advantages of this upgrade.
Thanks
Andrew

Edited by prideaux on Sunday 15th December 21:04

[heightswitch]

I thought they only did leather trim kits?
N.

[prideaux]

heightswitch said:

I thought they only did leather trim kits?
N.

Now its edited maybe you can reply again unless your too busy talking to the toilet cleaner in Blackpool
A

[anonymous-user]

Why would you?

[prideaux]

TVRMs said:

Why would you?

That was the second part of my question?
A

[Slow M]

Andrew,

I had some cut from 1018 series Stainless Steel. I have not researched it, but suspect that 1016 would have similar qualities.

In my case, it was for the purpose of adapting Mazda RX7 hubs, brake rotors, and calipers.

Best,
B.

[Slow M]

prideaux said:

TVRMs said:

Why would you?

That was the second part of my question?
A

On a guess, serviceability, and durability. Are the the new bearings taper-type? Weren't the originals ball bearings? With taper needle roller bearings, there's a small amount of adjustment to be had. Additionally, they will last longer, to begin with.

Best,
B.

[prideaux]

Adrian@ said:

Andrew is mixing up his Triumph and what is used in the TVR (twice in a day for this sort of thing...erm smile gracefully) ...for the M, in short, out there are spacers that fit between the bearings (for racing boys that 'should be' re-shimmed every 1000 mls to help with pad knock back) BUT as the CC (stub relates to the small Triumph hub with a different PCD) it does not fit the TVR (Vixen or M).
IMHO most M owners with the correct grease (I say this as I took a burnt out set of bearing with mega expensive Rocal grease/wax out of an M this week!!) and set up correctly are coming out of cars that are 40 years old still in perfect condition)
Adrian@

Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 15th December 21:44

Thank you keep smiling still lots to learn that's the answer I was hoping for will talk tomorrow
A

[bluezeeland]

Adrian,

would SKF high-temp bearing grease classify as 'the correct grease' ?

F

[prideaux]

Adrian@ said:

Andrew, I edited my reply as this has nothing to do with the PCD as Dave at CC will play with that for the kit car boys.
Adrian@

Thanks Adrian
I may as well be honest here rather than going round the houses may be a lesson to others and I am sure I am missing something that I am sure you will fill me in on.
However I have always had issues with the drivers side front bearing in that if I tighten it so there is no movement then its so tight its locked and I presume would burn out in no time so I loosen off tell it works but then I get some movement small but there and as the other side I get none I have always been concerned.

I was aware that I needed to change the nut when I picked the car up which I did in the car park however when I took it off it was clear the bearing was shot as bits started falling out.
So I had to fit the spare bearing I carry in the tool bag.
However this was not quite as easy as said as the bearing had welded itself in I presume from the heat.
I went round to a unit that prepares classic Escorts and they kindly lent me some pullers however they would not stay on as the arms that go round the back where not going past the bevelled part at the edge.
After several attempts I borrowed as ratchet strap and put around the three arms to hold it closed and she slowly came out.
So fitted the new bearing however try as I did the nut keeps threading itself I cant see any damage to the stub axle thread however I was not able to see properly underneath so there may be some on the underside and hence I cant get it fully tight all is on and pin in and got me home but want it sorted properly.
A

[heightswitch]

Vixens and M's use TR4 - 6 std stub axles. They accept Taper type wheel bearings.
You do not lock up a taper bearing you tighten till it starts to lock and seat then back it off a touch until you can feel a very slight drag fit the split pin and hey presto.

There are many many many ways of making a service job on an m or vixen much more complicated utilising different combinations of parts if you wish to but `i would suggest for your car you just need a new set of wheel bearings , new felt seal and some decent red grease, Maybe a new hub nut and d washer since you allude to yours being stripped?

It shouldn't take you more than an hour a side to do.

Stubs rarely snap, Your upright might though!

I am surprised that you have admitted to having a lot to learn. I thought you were the annointed Pistonheads Pre 80's expert these days?

Just fit std parts and enjoy your car.

N.

Edited by heightswitch on Sunday 15th December 22:44

[prideaux]

heightswitch said:

Vixens and M's use TR4 - 6 std stub axles. They accept Taper type wheel bearings.
You do not lock up a taper bearing you tighten till it starts to lock and seat then back it off a touch until you can feel a very slight drag fit the split pin and hey presto.

There are many many many ways of making a service job on an m or vixen much more complicated utilising different combinations of parts if you wish to but `i would suggest for your car you just need a new set of wheel bearings , new felt seal and some decent red grease, Maybe a new hub nut and d washer since you allude to yours being stripped?

It shouldn't take you more than an hour a side to do.

Stubs rarely snap, Your upright might though!

I am surprised that you have admitted to having a lot to learn. I thought you were the annointed Pistonheads Pre 80's expert these days?

Just fit std parts and enjoy your car.

N.

Edited by heightswitch on Sunday 15th December 22:44

Thanks for that
Far from it thought that was your job just wish I knew half as much as some think they know
I will get her sorted yes the easy thing is pop into my classic car garage up the road but that defeats the challenge of running old cars.
Never turned a spanner on a car up to 2 years ago so a massive learning curb.
A

[bluezeeland]

Got this red SKF stuff in at the mo, which needs to be 'topped up' during the 'annual', will report if it works. (I tend to do these things at an easy pace, good reason to disappear into the workshop for the whole Saturday..........avoiding Xmas shopping !)

As for hubs and stub-axles, Moss do do an alloy set (TR6), at a price and they require specific (better ?) bearings. Then again if there is nothing wrong with the original ones, why change ? (Unless......)

F

[GAjon]

Sucking eggs and all that aside.
It is important to rotate the hub opposite to the direction you are tightening whilst seating the bearing.

[heightswitch]

Breathe Adrian.. breathe....

Andrew..here Knock yourself out..

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/StubAxle.htm

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82


N.

Edited by heightswitch on Monday 16th December 15:34

[prideaux]

heightswitch said:

Breathe Adrian.. breathe....

Andrew..here Knock yourself out..

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/StubAxle.htm

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82


N.

Edited by heightswitch on Monday 16th December 15:34

Thank you
This reading and Bernards links to watch will keep me amused and out of mischief this evening.
Ordered all the parts from Adrian today so should have them on later in the week he has the patience of a saint thanks Adrian
A