350i Starting Issue :(

[pacman1]

Well, it starts and ticks over lumpily. But soon as you attempt to give it any throttle, it chokes to a stop.

Originally when I got it out of storage in October after not moving for the best part of a year, she started first time and off I went, got it MOT'd & taxed.
All fine and dandy, it then sits outside my place for a week, before I decide to take it for a gentle blat. About 4 miles out, an immoblilser connector finally burns out (which I knew to be dodgy for some time, but was unsure as to how best to go about fixing), so I was recovered by the good ol' AA back to my mechanic's garage.

Since then the immobiliser system has been removed by a third party known to the garage after being deemed scrap, it has been serviced, and the fuel tank has bee drained and new fuel added. And that is where she currently sits.

So far we think some component that tells the engine to give itself more fuel isn't working correctly, but we aren't sure where to look.
Any pointers as to where to look next would be greatfully recieved. Thanks in advance chaps!

[ElvisWedgely]

I think the clue could be in the fact that it sat outside for a week when it's used to being kept in a garage. It could be anything really, but most probably damp related. Leads, Plugs, coil, cap, rotor, dizzy, cold start mechanism and the list goes on. Elimination is your best bet, starting with the cheapest and the simplest. I hope that helps.

Tony. TCB.

[maston]

Sounds to me like it could either be your coolant temperature sensor or the throttle pot ?
But it sounds more like the cts imho.
Checked all vacuum pipes in particular the vaccum pipe from fuel pressure regulator to the plenum ?

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate…You will have to forgive my lack of knowledge on the RV8 as I'm just learning about them myself..The problem with anything sitting about for long periods is that fuel components can become gummed up..Is it lack of fuel or over fuelling?..Unplug the cold start injector from cold to see if that makes a difference, I think by doing that it will by-pass the temperature sender ruling that out…(I think)..Remove the air filter and gently push the flap inside the AFM…If it feels gritty or stiff then taking the unit off and cleaning it is not a bad idea..Gently clean the openings and as much as you can get to by holding the flap open..I used some brake & Clutch cleaner as it evaporates really quickly and some soft cloth, Try to keep the unit face up..Plastic cover side up to avoid getting any residue into the electronics..Then where the flap pivots inside give that a tiny spray of WD40 and gently push the flap and allow to close with resistance against your finger until it feels smooth moving..Clean the connections..The AFM plug and the ballast resistor plug…Ideally some petrol injector cleaner in with the petrol to help loosen the injectors as they may be gummed up..Check all the hoses to and from the plenum…It might be worth changing plugs..Coil..Rotor arm and dizzy cap..Hope this helps…Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 19th December 17:59

[superwedge]

i had the same, not been used for sometime, was ok for a time, then it would not rev up,just tick over, it was the ecu,change that rev up on the ball.i think that the ecu gets dry joints when not used for some time,

Edited by superwedge on Thursday 19th December 17:50

[pk500]

if its a flapper system make sure the flaps are free and also diconnect cold start injector on plenum

[carob]

Air leak.

Rob

[350zwelgje]

superwedge said:

i had the same, not been used for sometime, was ok for a time, then it would not rev up,just tick over, it was the ecu,change that rev up on the ball.i think that the ecu gets dry joints when not used for some time,

Edited by superwedge on Thursday 19th December 17:50

+1

But ECU not ok is the last of the things to look at.
My ECU got worse and worse, equals less and less horsepower, over a periode of 6 months until it idle-ed perfectly, but even thinking at using the throttle it started spluttering, nearly dying if I didn't back off. Was able to borrow a spare ECU and it felt like I had a turbo installed! Got a spare ECU (standard engine, flapper is of a Rover SD1 Vitesse) and in the meantime got mine re-soldered. Ran the spare for a couple of months and is ok with the engine setup and AFM (seems ECU and AFM are paired), using the original ECU now and have the spare as a, yes spare.
As mentioned before look first at: standard service items, disconnect coldstart injector, coolant temperature sensor and resistor pack on the wing are the basics to look at. Fuel pressure regulators and fuel pumps I would look at after that. honestjohn2 has good checklists if you want to be very thorough.

Rob


Rob

[pacman1]

Thanks for all the replies chaps!
I've been flat out working at the mo and will be up to mid January, but hopefully I shall find a spare morning to pop 'round there and see what I can sort out.
It's currently sat in a nice airy garage, unlike the place I had it stored which was more like a blimmin' bat cave, so I'm hoping the better atmosphere might help things too.
Will keep ya posted as to how I get on.