e36 evo overheating
e36 evo overheating
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chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
hi all, have not used car for a while but on a short trip yesterday engine temp rose to red. it then started to drop as I was about to pull over ,so I carried on home by which time it had climed back to red again. When I tried it thismorning inner fan is rotating but outer fan is not . Any sujestions appreciated I am not very mechanical but keen to try.

many thanks

Schermerhorn

4,352 posts

215 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
Easiest and cheapest fix might be an anti-freeze or thermostat change.

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
thanks for your quick reply shermahorn, antifreeze has recently been done amongst many other bits 'gulp' , can I change thermostat without loosing to much coolant as it looks to sit quite high on radiator .
regards

taz devil

74 posts

188 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
the thermostat is not on the radiator its on the block near the water pump
you said you did the anti freeze did you bleed the system sounds like an air block

Web13

68 posts

152 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
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Sounds like the thermostat, which is above the water pump on the block. where the 3 really long bolt are for the lifting lug.

Just double check that your header tank is full as you have just changed the fluid.

Web13

68 posts

152 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
taz devil said:
the thermostat is not on the radiator its on the block near the water pump
you said you did the anti freeze did you bleed the system sounds like an air block
O you beat me to it boxedin

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
hi taz, water pump and antifreeze were done a while ago. is thermostat fairly easy to do and will I lose coolant. also what is part bolted into rad and would this explain outer fan not running if it is thermostat. many thanks

Web13

68 posts

152 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
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Is probably the temp sender for the air con fan IIRC.

Its pretty easy, but I would recommend new seals on the bottom of the housing and both the o rings on the pipe going to the block. it can be a bit fiddly to take out.

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
is thermostat a bmw only part or can I get elsewhere, keen to get up and running now ive time to drive it.

Web13

68 posts

152 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
I've done you a quick guide.


you need to remove the 3X number 11's which will allow you to take off number 10. Then jiggling number 7 up and forward this allows one end of 13 to come out, it doesn't matter which. fluid will go every where but most will stay in the engine.

8 is the thermostat and it will probably get caught between 7 and the water pump so more jiggling. one you get 7 away, pull out 8 and throw at the floor, then kick it, put new 8 in the hole. new seal number 9 and 2X 14, make sure area sure seal faces are clean and free from ally oxide. throw it all back together. dont over tighten 11 its only into ally. top up the water.

I run the engine with the header tank cap off for a few mins, check the levels, put the cap back on. drive watch the temp, check for leaks. job done.



If you was referring to 11 12 and 13 its the switch for the fan.


Web13

68 posts

152 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
chim 1 said:
is thermostat a bmw only part or can I get elsewhere, keen to get up and running now ive time to drive it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-3-SERIES-M3-3-0-M3-3-2-M3-CSL-92-06-OEM-Standard-Replacement-Thermostat-/300999334297?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4614f55999

taz devil

74 posts

188 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
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get the thermastat from bmw its the cheepist cost me about £29 when i did mine last year also you can get the o rings whic are a oem part only but when mine whent the temp went through the roof and had to shut the engine off to cool it down the other thing which is common on bmw is the visious fan to go if it starts going slower it will not cool as good when stuck in traffic

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
quotequote all
web 13 that is great, really appreciated I will probably do both if I can source parts tomorrow.
wow I cant wait.

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd December 2013
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Taz, really appreciate all your help will let you no how I get on.

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Saturday 28th December 2013
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ok, thermostat and fan switch changed drove for about 5 miles all ok. Took it out later and same thing again temp rose, just about to pull over and it slowly dipped down again. Carried on home by which time back up to red . aghh . Thought may need more bleeding but every time I loosened cap slightly it was loosing water from below tank when retightened it would stop . any more sujestions please .

regards simon

Web13

68 posts

152 months

Saturday 28th December 2013
quotequote all
chim 1 said:
ok, thermostat and fan switch changed drove for about 5 miles all ok. Took it out later and same thing again temp rose, just about to pull over and it slowly dipped down again. Carried on home by which time back up to red . aghh . Thought may need more bleeding but every time I loosened cap slightly it was loosing water from below tank when retightened it would stop . any more sujestions please .

regards simon
It will be leaking water when you start to open the cap because you're breaking the seal and the hot water and steam under pressure forces it way past the seal. Then it comes out over the overflow. Don't open it when its hot.

I would check the viscus fan now, and the engine temp sensor is accurate.
Where you going slow or fast when it got hot?

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 29th December 2013
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Hi web ,I was just trying to let off a little heat as I was bassicaly crapping it. I was driving it very gently to check everything under normal driving. still no outer fan running through all this, is this right ?. How do I check viscous fan running speed and engine temp sensor. So first job this morning will be to top up coolant to seam on edder tank and run with cap off to let air out and see what I get, I must admit though it has only happened when on a run . many thanks.

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 29th December 2013
quotequote all
ok, topped up tank and ran to temp with cap off. Getting minor surging on water level and eventually got a few small bubbles . Temp reading half on gauge oil pressure climbing slowly I replaced cap and went out for a spin. 3 miles in driving at 3000 revs max temp starts to rise to just over 3/4 and then comes down to just over half, Heading home again rising to over 3/4 and oil pressure reading just under half. Sat on drive for a moment to flip bonnet with engine running and inner fan does seem to be running slower I think than when car was cooler and still no outer fan running.
Any help appreciated .

taz devil

74 posts

188 months

Sunday 29th December 2013
quotequote all
forget the elec fan that is a aircon fan if you did not have aircon you would not have it
when engine turned off if you spin the vicious fan it should feel tight spining it if it spins very easy then its not working
it works as a clutch and as the engine is under load it should spin faster
in winter it is hard to tell summer when its hot it can show up fast when stuck in traffic
if you are at constant speed the temp should stay in middle its when you load the engine or stop in traffic if it starts going up then when you get going it goes slowly back down it will be the fan tip if it is overheating put your inside fan on full and heat to full that will help cool the engine

chim 1

Original Poster:

30 posts

164 months

Sunday 29th December 2013
quotequote all
is viscous fan easy to replace and any idea on costs , I will check to see if it has any resistance in morning. cheers.